STX38 Died While Mowing
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16
Like Tree3Likes

Thread: STX38 Died While Mowing

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Last Online
    07-29-2019 @ 07:10 AM
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    41
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    STX38 Died While Mowing

    I'm going to start off the post by stating I am a complete beginner when it comes to mechanical work. I was mowing my yard with my STX 38 and half way through mowing I noticed the mower going slower 1&3 gear went the same speed. I continued to mow and a few minutes later the mower died. I was able to get it turned on, but when I turned on the blades the mower died again. Any suggestions?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2
    bloodrunsgreen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:33 PM
    Location
    Mid-Michigan
    Posts
    469
    Thanks
    15
    Thanked 54 Times in 52 Posts
    Hopefully you drove it back into an area where you can work on it. First thing sounds like the PTO has a problem and is pulling the voltage down far enough to stop the engine. So you will want to check the resistance of the coil, most are in the 3.8 to 4.5 ohms. If the coil is burned up it can cause damage to the bearing that is in it. So address that first.

    Then we will need to check the charging system (stator and VR) and battery. The battery should be taken to an auto store that can load test and charge test it for damage. The VR needs to put out 13.8 to 14.3 Volts DC with a full load on it (Lights on, PTO on, charging battery, supplying power for the ignition system, etc).

    Finally, what caused the problem in the PTO coil, Did it seem to run hot? Was it hard starting after dieing, Could you hear like hiss of fluid boiling?

    Engines get hot when they are running lean, this is caused by carb problems, leaking intake manifold, valves out of adjustment, carbon build up in the valves causing leakage.

  4. Top | #3

    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Last Online
    07-29-2019 @ 07:10 AM
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    41
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Well, after doing some work, it appears the issue looks to be wiring. I had 2 wires going to the positive terminal on the battery (1 to the starter and another to the fuse panel?). Aside from the negative battery terminal there were two purple wires coming off of a bunch of wires going from the PTO switch and key. These wires weren't connected to anything. Any idea what they are for?Click image for larger version.

Name:	IMG_2479.JPG
Views:	6
Size:	2.47 MB
ID:	384338


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4

    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Last Online
    03-02-2019 @ 06:20 PM
    Location
    Lehigh Valley PA
    Posts
    3,228
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 201 Times in 195 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by rebellax15 View Post
    Well, after doing some work, it appears the issue looks to be wiring. I had 2 wires going to the positive terminal on the battery (1 to the starter and another to the fuse panel?). Aside from the negative battery terminal there were two purple wires coming off of a bunch of wires going from the PTO switch and key. These wires weren't connected to anything. Any idea what they are for?Click image for larger version.

Name:	IMG_2479.JPG
Views:	6
Size:	2.47 MB
ID:	384338


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    That looks like a hot mess or a good place to start a fire. Wire nuts and black tape are for home/building wiring. Not for vehicles/equipment. I take it that you got the tractor this way.
    If you plan on keeping it this work be the best thing. Get a wiring diagram and go over the whole system. Fix anything shady and wrong. Then everything will work like it should.

  7. Top | #5

    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Last Online
    07-29-2019 @ 07:10 AM
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    41
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    It's definitely a mess and how I got the tractor. Any suggestions on where to start in regards to reading the wiring diagram? I don't mind messing with it, but am completely green


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. Top | #6
    bloodrunsgreen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:33 PM
    Location
    Mid-Michigan
    Posts
    469
    Thanks
    15
    Thanked 54 Times in 52 Posts
    You will need the tech manual TM1561 (314 pages) and the parts catalog PC2399. I have attached some schematic I have found on-line. How accurate you will have to determine.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails JD STX 38-46 Wiring Diagram.jpg JD STX38 Yellow Deck Wiring Schematic.png
    gbnpp05 and H-D dealer dude like this.

  9. Top | #7

    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Last Online
    03-02-2019 @ 06:20 PM
    Location
    Lehigh Valley PA
    Posts
    3,228
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 201 Times in 195 Posts
    From your original post. It sounds like the battery got run down for some reason and everything stopped working. The very first thing that you need to do diagnosing any electrical problem is making sure the battery is 100% good & fully charged. Like stated you can take it to a parts store for testing. If the battery is drained it will have to be changed before you can do an accurate test.

    You are also going to need some tools. Like a multimeter and battery tender/charger. Do you have either?
    Having someone to help read the wiring diagram would also help.

    The first thing I would do (besides testing/charging the battery) is look over the whole wiring harness. Start at one end and work towards the other. This is what you are looking for.
    Any place it was messed with. Like in your picture.
    Loose, rusted or pinched wires. Sometimes the insulation will rub off from vibrations shorting it out.
    Any cut wires going nowhere.
    Unplug and check any plugs. Also looking corrosion or pin push out.
    All ground wiring going to the frame is clean and tight.
    This way you will know where to concentrate your efforts.

    Let us know what you find. Good luck
    Last edited by H-D dealer dude; 06-07-2017 at 02:43 PM.
    gbnpp05 likes this.

  10. Top | #8

    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Last Online
    07-29-2019 @ 07:10 AM
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    41
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Thanks for everyone's help, I tested the PTO and it was working correctly. I did replace the wiring harness and that seemed to fit a portion of the issue. I believe the issue now is with the Carburetor. I can only have the throttle in one position to get the Blades to run without stalling. I had problems with the throttle before and cleaned the carb with no change. I'm wondering if it's time to replace it


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. Top | #9
    bloodrunsgreen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:33 PM
    Location
    Mid-Michigan
    Posts
    469
    Thanks
    15
    Thanked 54 Times in 52 Posts
    It may not be the carb, but problem in the fuel system. Check tank, check the pickups, check the lines, check the fuel filter, check the pump, check the tank gas cap vent.

  12. Top | #10
    SulleyBear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Last Online
    Today @ 05:38 PM
    Location
    Beautiful beaches, moderated summer heat and lake effect snows. Right where I want to be.
    Posts
    6,806
    Thanks
    1,387
    Thanked 2,428 Times in 1,361 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by rebellax15 View Post
    Thanks for everyone's help, I tested the PTO and it was working correctly. I did replace the wiring harness and that seemed to fit a portion of the issue. I believe the issue now is with the Carburetor. I can only have the throttle in one position to get the Blades to run without stalling. I had problems with the throttle before and cleaned the carb with no change. I'm wondering if it's time to replace it


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Fuel quality is a really big issue these days and it's important to run good grade gasoline and avoid the blended fuels if possible. It is much harder to avoid any ethanol blended fuels than you would think. Even the "Regular" and "Mid Grade" pumps often have 15% of the fuel is ethanol. If you can buy gas for your mower at a marina, they tend to be the easiest places to find fuel without the ethanol blending, BUT ALWAYS ASK someone who actually knows. They are supposed to have labels on the pumps which indicate fuel additives but some states vary on this so it isn't an absolute.

    It sounds like a carb issue and the most common carb issues are oxidation and just corrosion from the ethanol in the fuel. If your fuel is more than a month old, get new fuel. Also, the carb on your tractor likely needs to be rebuilt. If you have access to the parts schematic and have some mechanical knowledge, this isn't terribly complicated. If you aren't mechanically inclined, I would suggest having someone either help you with the carb rebuild or have a small engine shop rebuild it.

    Your John Deere parts department is also a handy resource as they frequently see the issues with the different models and they know which parts sell often. For example, they likely have the needle and seat and float for your carb in stock. Ask the parts department about the items for your tractor which sell most often for the carburetors and they will likely know and be able to assist you. Generally, the parts people are very knowledgeable and friendly.

    If you do need something which they don't have, ask the parts person how often that particular part is ordered. It shows right on their computer how often any part is sold. As a very reliable rule of thumb on equipment, most of the same things fail on the same models. So if your dealer parts person tells you "I have never ordered a carburetor for that model tractor", then likely yours doesn't need a new one either. The reverse also applies, if they say "We sell a lot of rebuild kits for that machine carburetor", chances are yours needs one to. It's not an absolute but you would be surprised how consistent problems and parts failures are on the same model of machine.

    So, in summary,

    1. Replace your fuel filter
    2. Make sure your fuel is clean and NEW. If you aren't sure, get new fuel. Drain that fuel left in the tank and start new.
    3. Make sure the air filter is clean as a motor which can't get air will run rich and often stall.
    4. Make sure the choke is functioning correctly.
    5. Look at the parts schematic for your tractor on John Deere Parts at their main website.
    6. Write down the serial number for your tractor and carry it in your wallet or on your phone. You will need it for some parts as in some cases, the serial number is necessary to get the right parts.
    7. Clean everything in your carb with a can of carb cleaner while the tractor is running, if possible, before you disassemble it. If that, along with items 1, 2, 3 don't help it run better, it;s likely carb rebuilt time.

    8. Make sure to take several close up photos of the carb and all linkage, etc before you disassemble anything. It is critical that the governor linkage work correctly along with the throttle and choke or you can over rev the engine and blow it up.

    9. Also, write down exactly the position of the adjustment screws based upon how many turns it takes to TIGHTEN THEM, not remove them. These are the fuel enrichment screws and adjustment screws and you need to put them back very close to where they were before you disassembled them. Mark the screws with a marker or put a mark for reference om there somewhere if it helps you get it back the way it was.

    10. Draw a circle representing each screw and mark the exact position of the screw driver slot relevant to something meaningful to you, such as the top of the carb or something else on the engine. Then use a screw driver to tighten it snug (don't over tighten it), counting how many times your screw driver makes a full 360 degree rotation, measured from the existing position of the slot.

    So, for example, your information might say " top screw slot at 2 o'clock (am or pm doesn't matter) 3 and one 1/4 turns to tighten." Do this for each "Adjustment" screw. This way, when you reassemble it after rebuilding it and cleaning it, you put the screw in, tighten it down snug and then back it out 3 and 1/4 turns and it is very close to where it was when the tractor was running correctly before you began this venture. Makes sense, doesn't it verses trying to guess where it should be?

    Also, don't disassemble things which don't need to be taken apart to achieve your goal. You would be surprised how often people take apart things in pieces which can be removed as a single component, only making the task bigger. The goal isn't to create a puzzle, but rather to make your mower run correctly.

    This is really important to save yourself headaches trying to get the carb close to proper setting if you are not experienced at this process. Too much details will never hurt you, where too little information will leave you guessing.....If you only knew how many carbs, transmissions, you name it and similar items I have put back together over the years which came to me in a box after taken apart and someone forgot how to put it back together.

    It's also critical to note that your tractor requires a very good ground connection for it to run properly and to operate the electric solenoids on the PTO clutch. Check the black battery cable closely to make sure it isn't cracked, kinked or corroded. If it is any of those, replace it.

    Make sure the ground from the tractor to the tractor frame is also clean and tight. This is separate from the black battery cable. This grounds the actual engine to the tractor frame (usually), It is shown on your tractor schematic. A corroded ground connection will cause lots of issues.

    Someone likely added something after market to your tractor at some point and hacked into the wiring in your first picture. I would clean that up as HD Dude suggested. Wiring nuts on a tractor.......I guess whoever used whatever was easiest for them, despite the hazards.

    Often, if you find wires which are obviously added, many times they were for extra lights or something else that was switch operated and they may not be connected to anything presently. It's best to remove any VERIFIED unnecessary wires and make sure the connections are soldered correctly and sealed with either shrink wrap or GOOD electrical tape, NOT applied as shown in the photo. However if you can't be POSITIVE as to the necessity of any wire, leave it alone as you can create other problems for yourself unrelated to the problem you are having.

    Make sure to let us know what you find and how it goes.........

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





  13. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts