LX176 coil
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Thread: LX176 coil

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    LX176 coil

    Looking for Deere part AM109209 or equivalent. According to JD's parts page online, that's what fits the Kawa FC420V-AS10 regardless of serial number.

    [Edit: clarified the part]

    Presumably this mower uses an external igniter, somewhere. Later FC420V engines use an internal-to-the-coil igniter, I think.

    Ideally, I'd like to find one with the damn spark plug boot on the end, but that too ain't easy.
    Last edited by deckeda; 07-28-2017 at 07:32 PM.

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    I'm also interested to learn where the igniter is on this mower. Built into the key switch circuit board or a separate module?

    What took me down this road is the mower not seeming to get any spark except to backfire every once in a while. The spark plug is now fouled, so there's that. But I also noticed the plug wire comes off the plug "too easily" for comfort. As in, can be slid back off the plug's tip.

    At first I got out the pliers and gently squeezed where the metal tip would be located on the plug wire. Never seemed to really contract or become squeezed. Upon further inspection I saw it's a damn spring that connects to the spark plug, not a standard "cap style" thin metal part.

    I suppose I could cut off the tip and buy a new plug end that will properly snap into the spark plug.

    And then I got to thinking how the mower died when hot, the ONE time we were able to use this new-to-us-lemon. Still interested in a new coil, maybe a new igniter. And definitely a new spark plug boot ....

    Long story short, if nothing else I need to figure out what tool I need to set the air gap on the igniter. Took mine off.

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    spark plug boot ...

    According to J-D's parts site, engines, er, tractors? with serials up to 160000 show the spark plug cap and connector spring separately.

    Spring: J-D part PT10069
    Cap: J-D part M97213

    Engines, er, tractors? with serials starting 160001 show a combined spark plug boot part, M88905

    Given that either setup works with the same AM109209 coil, why wouldn't I get the later part, the M88905?

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    Chuckv's Avatar
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    Deckeda,

    The ignitor is a small unit with only one wire going to it -- it is held to the engine with a single screw that provides the second connection which is ground. Here is an excerpt from the service manual that shows detail in the ignition system. On the lower right corner of the last page of the attachment below you will find a line drawing of the ignitor:

    TM1492 LX series service manual - LX172, 176 & 178 ignition.pdf


    The ignitor is most likely your failed part since it happened at elevated temperature. Have you had the engine tins off to verify that the cooling fins are not caked with grass and other debris which would make the engine run very hot? From your posts above it seems that this is a new-to-you mower, so I presume that you did all the things that adding a machine to your herd would normally get -- like changing the oil and air filters, new plug, changing the oil, etc.

    The TM1492 service manual has a component locator illustration showing the ignition module is on the block near the mount bracket for the dipstick tube.
    Click image for larger version.

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    You can test the coil and module with a meter per this procedure from the same manual:
    Click image for larger version.

Name:	ignitor module test.jpg
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    Note that the data shows ENGINE serial number ranges -- if your engine is not in this group, let us know and other information on the later combined magneto coil/ignitor can be provided.

    Chuck
    Last edited by Chuckv; 07-30-2017 at 12:03 PM.

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    Thanks very much. This is the head start I needed. I will read through the info tonite!

    Quote Originally Posted by Chuckv View Post
    ... Have you had the engine tins off to verify that the cooling fins are not caked with grass and other debris which would make the engine run very hot? From your posts above it seems that this is a new-to-you mower, so I presume that you did all the things that adding a machine to your herd would normally get -- like changing the oil and air filters, new plug, changing the oil, etc.
    Cooling fins are completely clear. Yes, it's new-to-me and I have no prior experience with riding mowers to speak of. Oil has not been changed by me but is clean (not black). Previous owner professed to being a synthetic user from Day 1. I am not, but whatever. Air filter needs replacing. It's been run without the foam piece, and now the paper element is getting dirty.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chuckv View Post
    ...
    Note that the data shows ENGINE serial number ranges -- if your engine is not in this group, let us know and other information on the later combined magneto coil/ignitor can be provided.
    It's an AS10, so I don't know if the one image you shared (that references DS or ES) applies? I also think this is an early mower, from 1992 according to another sticker.

    I think this is the engine serial? E/NO FC420VA48156 << That's on the same sticker as the engine model number. But if the serial is stamped on the engine block I haven't yet run across it.

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    Chuckv's Avatar
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    The model year maps to the tractor serial number per this chart for the LX176 mowers...
    Click image for larger version.

Name:	model year versus SN for LX176 mowers.jpg
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    The full parts catalog document is the PC2317 here:
    PC2317.pdf

    ...and section 40 of the CTM5 covers your engine in some detail...
    CTM5 section 40 -- FC series Kawasaki engine.pdf

    Chuck

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    By the way -- elsewhere in the CTM5 manual is the below illustration of the serial number label location for the engine...note that it is also a very clear view of the ignitor module location...
    Click image for larger version.

Name:	SN tag location for FC420V engines.jpg
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    Chuck
    Last edited by Chuckv; 07-30-2017 at 07:20 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuckv View Post
    The model year maps to the tractor serial number per this chart for the LX176 mowers...
    Yep, I'm in that second group, at XO53519

    Just came back from a recon mission to find my multimeter and also give a quick look at the tractor. Sure enough, the igniter location is obvious once you know what to look for. Tomorrow I'll see about testing what needs testing.

    Thanks also for the additional literature. I may just mow an entire lawn before Fall at this rate!

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    OK

    Coil resistance (all the way through to the spark plug connector) is within spec: 10.38/10.39 kOhms. Had my meter on the nearest, "20k" setting, so that should be correct.

    I don't see how the spark plug wire can safely be removed from the coil, so don't know that I could check the other spec (coil-to-coil terminal, without spark plug wire on it.)

    Dunno why it'd be on the lower end of acceptability, but I suppose it'll do.

    That being said, if the spark plug wire CAN be safely removed from the coil, I'd be interested in replacing the spark plug wire with an "automotive" type, i.e. with standard clip on the end ... not a spring. Something that securely attaches to the spark plug! Any ideas there?

    I hate when I get in "engineer" mode and start second-guessing the experts, but hey, a flaw is a flaw and I really am not convinced the plug wire is really staying too secure on the spark plug ... pulls off WAY too easily in my opinion.

    ... meanwhile the instructions don't have a test for the igniter, only replace and "see if it works." Seriously? What is so magical that a simple multimeter can't test for? No one in this small town has anything like that igniter. Well, one place had some sorta generic one for $20. Mighta been aluminum (and slightly finned, which seemed smart ...) with two taps (separate ground connection.)

    That being said, if I bought it and the thing still didn't run I'd forever question it. I'm off to see if I can find the original part for something LESS than the one I found on Amazon for $68!

    *********
    Side note, the spark plug I pulled out is a NGK BPR5ES 11 (the "11" is written underneath the BPR5ES). My Honda 215's (push mowers) take a BPR5ES. Well, ain't that handy. Would be great (meaning, simpler) if "all" my mowers took the same plug. Dunno what that "11" means tho.

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    Sweet Jeebus! You gotta be kidding me.

    Deere part # AM131398 (the igniter ...) is like $60. Saw a USED on on eBay for $40. FORTY.

    W.T.F.

    Why won't a generic $15/$20 one work?

    *********

    Am I better off figuring out how to convert this machine to the later 176's that don't use a separate igniter? And if so, how??

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