LA120 Blowing Fuse
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Thread: LA120 Blowing Fuse

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    LA120 Blowing Fuse

    Greetings all, newbie here and a couple of questions. Recently obtained this rider in generally good condition but no documentation.

    But it pops the 20A fuse as soon as key is turned to 1st position which has a headlight icon. Fuse pops with headlights unplugged as well. I'd really like to obtain a wiring diagram if I could. Is the alternator causing this? Will it start if I unplug the large white connector?

    Googling around a bit today and no joy on diagrams. Thanks in advance for any all advice...
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    You might be interested in in old thread about an L1XX machine having the same sort of problem.

    http://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...2343-l108.html


    You'll probably have to contact a dealer and order a tech manual to get diagrams specific to your machine.
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    Try at night with the lights off.

    You'll see where the problem is I bet.
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    Thanks Gentlemen,

    I think I'll pull the key switch tomorrow and take a look there - on second thought, battery shows 12.7VDC so assuming all's well w/ alternator
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    Dads mower was doing that also one time, I found a chafed wire going across the engine under the engine cover.

    Steve, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
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    I moved this to the proper forum. A LA120 is too new for the Vintage forum, and the only 120 that is considered "vintage" is from 1969-1974 era and is a garden tractor, not a lawn tractor. Sorry for the confusion, as Deere likes to reuse model numbers too much, i.e. 110 versus L-110, 120 versus L-120 and LA120, 140 versus D-140. All variants of those model numbers are completely different machines from different eras.
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    Okay In the proper Forum Now! Thanks

    Thanks Jim R - the wiring diagram linked in that discussion was close enough. This tractor doesn't have PTO is all.

    Although I don't understand why; bypassing the operator-presence switch with a jumper wire enabled me to put a fresh fuse in place and start it up. Oh Well! But how could the seat switch have been "shorted" and popping the fuse? Water intrusion maybe? The seat is kinda tore up but stored inside a barn.

    And now it stalls as soon as I release the clutch pedal - more troubleshooting tomorrow I guess. What Fun...
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    Quote Originally Posted by AppleJack View Post
    Thanks Jim R - the wiring diagram linked in that discussion was close enough. This tractor doesn't have PTO is all.

    Although I don't understand why; bypassing the operator-presence switch with a jumper wire enabled me to put a fresh fuse in place and start it up. Oh Well! But how could the seat switch have been "shorted" and popping the fuse? Water intrusion maybe? The seat is kinda tore up but stored inside a barn.

    And now it stalls as soon as I release the clutch pedal - more troubleshooting tomorrow I guess. What Fun...

    Follow the seat switch wires and look for a problem. Someone just posted about the seat switch wires toasting a fuse. It was on a fairly new tractor to boot. Was still under warranty but he found the problem at home.

    Could the actual switch be grounded against the internal metal seat frame?
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    Update Problem Solved

    Simply jumping the two Blk/Wht and Wht/Blk for the seat switch together wouldn't work. Something in the circuit with the other two ground wires that are in the same plug prevented that because as soon as I let the clutch out it would stall.

    At any rate, replacing with a new "operator presence" switch was the answer. $10 part and a couple of hours troubleshooting and all's well again.

    Thank You to all who offered assistance...
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    With four wires in the seat switch you actually have to jump more than just 2. The contacts are normally open and normally closed. You have to jump out the correct pair to test the switch.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
    Last edited by xcopterdoc; 08-10-2017 at 05:35 PM.
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