425 Problem
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Thread: 425 Problem

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    425 Problem

    Hello,

    I have a 425 that starts-up perfect and runs for 5 to 10 minutes and shuts down. Allow it sit for 3 minutes and it starts up perfect and runs without any other interruptions. It does this every time that I use it. Any insight will be helpful. Thanks

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    bloodrunsgreen's Avatar
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    Does the time include trying to mow with it?

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    T-Mo's Avatar
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    I moved this to the proper forum. 425s started production after 1992, so this belongs in the regular L&G forum.
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    When it shuts down check for spark right away. This will direct you to the next steps.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk

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    425 problem

    Try replacing the TDM, (time delay module)

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    Mine did this after but took a bit longer. After it warmed up, the ignition module on one of the cylinders would go wonkie.

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    xcopterdoc's Avatar
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    Alot to look at on these 425/445 mowers. To troubleshoot correctly you will need 2 spark testers and a good multimeter at a minimum. They can be bastards to figure out. Unless you just whip out the card and load the parts shotgun..

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    You can download the Technical Manual for your 425 here:

    John Deere 425, 445 and 455 Technical Manual - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information

    The troubleshooting procedures set forth in the manual are pretty good and they also illustrations as to where to check voltages.
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    Have you tried to see if the gas cap vent is plugged? That maintenance check is free!
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    Quote Originally Posted by locklej View Post
    Hello,

    I have a 425 that starts-up perfect and runs for 5 to 10 minutes and shuts down. Allow it sit for 3 minutes and it starts up perfect and runs without any other interruptions. It does this every time that I use it. Any insight will be helpful. Thanks
    425 is not too difficult to troubleshoot. Start with the basics.
    *Connections, wiring and grounds, clean and check with a meter.
    *Check pulsar coil resistance against spec found in downloadable service manual, should be ~120 ohms if memory serves.
    *Check 12v to coils, and primary and secondary resistance per manual
    *Check delay module power wire to ignighter module for 12v with key on.
    *Check fuel solenoid at carb, key on open, key off closed.
    *If all is well to this point, and you are sure wiring and connections are good, then the ignition module (JD calls them ignighters) is likely bad. You need to hook up your volt meter to one of the coil primary windings, it'll take a good meter or a 12v light. Crank engine, if light flickers off & on, module is good, look system over again, no flicker, module is bad. The coils work on the concept of a collapsing magnetic field (coil primary) inducing a current in the adjacent winding (coil secondary) to produce spark. The light flickering of the test light is the interruption of primary voltage (collapsing). If voltage is collapsing at the coil, it would probably be a bad secondary winding at this point.

    The theory of operation is, the pulsaers provide a pulse to the ignighter module to tell it when to interrupt power to the coils to cause them to spark.

    The delay module applies:
    12v to coils all the time
    12v to fuel solenoid and ignighter with key on

    Delay module operation is to open the fuel solenoid and power the ignighter when key is turned on. When key is shut off, power to solenoid is immediately shut off(closing off fue), but power to the ignighter is delayed being shut off by around 2 seconds. You can check the delay with a volt meter at the power wire from delay module to ignighter.




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