425 Motor Rebuild
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Thread: 425 Motor Rebuild

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    425 Motor Rebuild

    Good evening all. So finally took the plunge and decided to tear into the motor on the 425. It's a 93 with like 634 hours. Reason for tearing into the motor was tons of oil blow by. That was fouling the plugs. More so on the left than the right side. So pulled it all apart and got the motor on the bench. Then started in on the motor. Intake, heads, water pump, front cover, all the insides cam, tappets, pistons every thing. Honed out the cylinders and set new rings in and gapped them about .024. Cleaned it up and started in on the rebuild. NEWrings standard size, steel cam, tappets, gaskets, water pump, oil and govener gears, valve seals, springs and cleaned and polished the valves. So this is were I'm at frustrated. I got the front cover put on and torque down. Then got the water pump and thermostat cover on and started to torque it down. I got to the last bolt which happens to be the right-hand side cover bolt on the water pump. Started to torque it down and it snapped right off in the block. My question is do I pull it all back apart and get the bolt out of the block. Or put it back in the tractor and hope for the best? I hate to do it but think pulling it back apart is the right thing to do. Has anyone else had this happen that can feel my pain? I can put some pics on here tomorrow if needed. But I'm just ready to have my tractor back!!! Also I have everything to shim the hydraulics to help out the FEL. Thanks in advance for all the feedback and advice. Matt
    93-425–54" deck, #40 FEL with LED lights, 94-425AWS--60”deck, MC519 MCS with power flow and dethather, 54" blade custom LED light bar and removeable home made squeegee kit and wings, #15 cart, 15gal tow behind sprayer. Stihl 039 24" bar, MS310 20" bar, 026 16” bar, JD 40V 16" bar, Stihl BG55 X 2, FS55, FS85 Pro, MM55 tiller, TroyBuilt SuperBronco, BlueBird easyscape vertacutter. And it keeps growing!!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by MattInKC View Post
    Good evening all. So finally took the plunge and decided to tear into the motor on the 425. It's a 93 with like 634 hours. Reason for tearing into the motor was tons of oil blow by. That was fouling the plugs. More so on the left than the right side. So pulled it all apart and got the motor on the bench. Then started in on the motor. Intake, heads, water pump, front cover, all the insides cam, tappets, pistons every thing. Honed out the cylinders and set new rings in and gapped them about .024. Cleaned it up and started in on the rebuild. NEWrings standard size, steel cam, tappets, gaskets, water pump, oil and govener gears, valve seals, springs and cleaned and polished the valves. So this is were I'm at frustrated. I got the front cover put on and torque down. Then got the water pump and thermostat cover on and started to torque it down. I got to the last bolt which happens to be the right-hand side cover bolt on the water pump. Started to torque it down and it snapped right off in the block. My question is do I pull it all back apart and get the bolt out of the block. Or put it back in the tractor and hope for the best? I hate to do it but think pulling it back apart is the right thing to do. Has anyone else had this happen that can feel my pain? I can put some pics on here tomorrow if needed. But I'm just ready to have my tractor back!!! Also I have everything to shim the hydraulics to help out the FEL. Thanks in advance for all the feedback and advice. Matt
    Unfortunately you need to pull it back apart. No use putting the engine back in only to find it leaks.

    Is the broken bolt in a blind hole? (Has a bottom) If so make sure that any like this are 100% clean. The bolt will hit the junk and stop. Then turning it any further will snap the bolt. This can also crack or brake the housing. Especially if it's made out of cast iron or aluminum.

    Had something similar happen to an exhaust manifold on an Asian 4 cylinder car. Had to pull it to replace a few broken studs. Removed the bad ones and checked the rest. They looked to be in good shape. The car wasn't that old so they weren't all rusty. Everything went back together fine. Put my tools away then went to close the hood. Only to find another one missing. DOH!
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    Snapped bolt

    Easy out, or heli coil
    Levi likes this.

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    I too would encourage you to take it back down to remove the broken bolt. Not sure which one broke but the common coolant leak (from age) is in the case gasket in the w/p mounting area. You don't want to encourage that.

    Do you have the Kawasaki Liquid Cooled Manual for reference to the torque and tightening sequence? As I recall, there is a difference in torque for the smaller diameter bolts at the w/p. There may be a slight difference in the length of the bolts that could mix you up.
    I always have a pucker factor going when disassembling alloy cases with the steel bolts. The reaction of the different materials sometimes makes a corrosion that is as strong as rust. Snapping a bolt in disassembly is not the heart breaker that happens with the last one in reassembly for sure.

    If you don't have a manual, let us know. Maybe I can scan something and post it if needed. (Finally figured out the scan part of the new printer.)
    Hang in there. You'll make it!

    tommyhawk

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    Quote Originally Posted by tommyhawk View Post
    I too would encourage you to take it back down to remove the broken bolt. Not sure which one broke but the common coolant leak (from age) is in the case gasket in the w/p mounting area. You don't want to encourage that.

    Do you have the Kawasaki Liquid Cooled Manual for reference to the torque and tightening sequence? As I recall, there is a difference in torque for the smaller diameter bolts at the w/p. There may be a slight difference in the length of the bolts that could mix you up.
    I always have a pucker factor going when disassembling alloy cases with the steel bolts. The reaction of the different materials sometimes makes a corrosion that is as strong as rust. Snapping a bolt in disassembly is not the heart breaker that happens with the last one in reassembly for sure.

    If you don't have a manual, let us know. Maybe I can scan something and post it if needed. (Finally figured out the scan part of the new printer.)
    Hang in there. You'll make it!

    tommyhawk

    Well the good news is. JD had a new gasket and 6mm bolt on hand. 21$ and out the door with a smile. I was able to get off work early and get started. All pulled apart and cleaned up. All ready to put back together. 2 fresh new beads of high temp silicone and here we go. Torqued it all down and water pump on HAPPY. Cleaned up the tools to get ready to go eat. Got ready to shut the door and there they were. The 2 oil O rings that I didn't put on. STUPID STUPID STUPID. The good news in all that is I was able to save the gasket. So I will do it correctly for the 3rd time tomorrow morning.
    93-425–54" deck, #40 FEL with LED lights, 94-425AWS--60”deck, MC519 MCS with power flow and dethather, 54" blade custom LED light bar and removeable home made squeegee kit and wings, #15 cart, 15gal tow behind sprayer. Stihl 039 24" bar, MS310 20" bar, 026 16” bar, JD 40V 16" bar, Stihl BG55 X 2, FS55, FS85 Pro, MM55 tiller, TroyBuilt SuperBronco, BlueBird easyscape vertacutter. And it keeps growing!!!!

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