X500 to redo gravel drive?
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    X500 to redo gravel drive?

    Hi everyone long time lurker here. Great site! Anyhow I am having a hard time justifying a scut although I do really want one. I'm only maintaining 2 acres currently. I do have ground to move and a garden is in the works once I remove some trees.My question is can an x500 handle pulling a box blade and ripping up an existing compacted gravel drive? Potholes are driving me nuts and I need to rip it up. My drive is about 300 feet long opening to a 6 car parking area infront of my garage/shop. Now my machine will be primarily a mower 90% of the time. But an fel would be great as I cut a lot of wood and also have access to 20 acres behind my house which I will be cutting up anything dead/fallen. My entire house needs re graded to move water from my foundation and I also have to create a trench/ swell on one side to direct water between my septic , propane tank, and house (not much room on this side of house). Any way given those circumstances what do you think? Thanks everyone I included an over head shot of my property
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    Last edited by Tjc50; 07-13-2014 at 11:41 PM.
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    mjncad's Avatar
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    Welcome to GTT.

    Do you own the 20-acres you mentioned in your post, or are they owned by someone else giving you access?

    Ideally you need a dedicated lawn tractor (X500) and a SCUT/CUT for everything else.



    I'm trying to convince myself to get a AWS X700 series just for mowing duties as I'm tired of my Big Box Mart grade Deere L130. I don't need all that the X700 series has to offer as I don't mow that often; I just want it to make mowing less of a headache, especially as I get older.

    I have a CUT for non-mowing duties.
    I have more ideas than ambition.


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    ejb69's Avatar
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    The x500 is a good lawn mower, however its too light duty for some of jobs you listed.

    A 1025r would be a better fit for you. It may even be a bit small for going in the woods.

    Buy as much tractor as you can afford.
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    Eric

    2011 1026R / H120 / 60D auto-connect, independent-lift mmm / 54" snowblower / 4' KK Pro rotary mower / KK 4' tiller

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    Really wish I owned the woods behind me. I am hoping the farmer sells it to me. Trying to keep a good relationship with him and help him out with small tasks. He doesn't like anyone else in our area so I think I am ahead if he sells . But I have permission to hunt, take an atv, or small tractor to gather firewood. I would also love an x500 for mowing and a larger fel for work described. But that will never happen . I am really shooting for a one truck pony to do all tasks . I looked into the zero turn and atv route but I am not a fan of that. My neighbor has that setup and is very limited to basically snow plowing and recreational riding. A sub cut I feel is my best bet and I know I won't complain about an fel. I used to run all kinds of equipment but my favorite was a 4x4 Steiner we had 3 of em when I used to lay block. Those little bastards were tough as nails!
    I recently tooled around on my friends brand new bx2370 and I was amazed at how nimble it was with fel off and mmm. I almost mowed his whole property I didn't want to get off. I actually really liked that bx felt solid. For ripping up my driveway with a box blade how bad is the 1/4" valve on the kubota vs position control on the 1025r for tasks like that?
    Also driving the bota around made me hate my d120 lawn mower. But I got it for 500$ with 30 hrs on it the first summer we moved in.
    Last edited by Tjc50; 07-14-2014 at 12:13 PM.

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    I agree with mjncad and ejb69. A SCUT or CUT is what you really need.
    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD, The Wife
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tjc50 View Post
    Really wish I owned the woods behind me. I am hoping the farmer sells it to me. Trying to keep a good relationship with him and help him out with small tasks. He doesn't like anyone else in our area so I think I am ahead if he sells . But I have permission to hunt, take an atv, or small tractor to gather firewood. I would also love an x500 for mowing and a larger fel for work described. But that will never happen . I am really shooting for a one truck pony to do all tasks . I looked into the zero turn and atv route but I am not a fan of that. My neighbor has that setup and is very limited to basically snow plowing and recreational riding. A sub cut I feel is my best bet and I know I won't complain about an fel. I used to run all kinds of equipment but my favorite was a 4x4 Steiner we had 3 of em when I used to lay block. Those little bastards were tough as nails!
    I recently tooled around on my friends brand new bx2370 and I was amazed at how nimble it was with fel off and mmm. I almost mowed his whole property I didn't want to get off. I actually really liked that bx felt solid. For ripping up my driveway with a box blade how bad is the 1/4" valve on the kubota vs position control on the 1025r for tasks like that?
    Also driving the bota around made me hate my d120 lawn mower. But I got it for 500$ with 30 hrs on it the first summer we moved in.
    I upgraded from a 1986 JD180 lawnmower to a 1025R and the 1025R outperforms it in every way (including turning radius.)

    FWIW....0 down 0% interest netted me a $279 payment for 72 months. Equipped per my signature below.
    -Scott-

    2014 1025R - 60D 7-Iron MMM, H120 53" FEL/Ballast Box, Ken's hooks and Piranha toothbar, BB2048L Boxblade, 54" snowblade Quick-tatch w/full hydraulic lift/tilt.

    You don't have to outrun the bear......just the other campers

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    Any thoughts on position control vs inching valve. I understand the concepts but is the inching valve something you just adjust and learn? Is it still capable of doing a nice even job on a gravel drive or yard?

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    636mullet's Avatar
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    I'd bet a 1025R would do everything you ask it. I've got 2.2 acres and I've never been let down by my 1026R. I had a 318 and Polaris Scrambler combo when I moved here. The loader is so much nicer for yard tasks than my Yard Cart. I know you said it wouldn't happen, but for yard work having the 318 at my disposal is super handy. When I have the tiller and loader on my 1026R it's nice to have the 318 on the roller and spreader as 3 point attachments are kinda cumbersome to remove. It wasn't worth much for a trade in and I've never regretted keeping it. There are times I find reasons to use just to justify keeping it. Last week I "didn't" get to my lawn mowing duties in time so I "had" to fire up the 318 and run the lawn sweep over the yard. Worked pretty slick and its nice to get in the seat some.

    An extra $.02. Get the snow blade system. 54" quick hitch blade. It's awesome! If you can't at first the loader will do the job. I got mine a year later and love it. I do wish it was built a little heavier so you use it for more than just snow.

    -636
    Early 2012 1026R with H120 and 60" auto connect MMM

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    636mullet's Avatar
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    Here's a shot of when I tore out an old concrete chunk retaining wall.



    Here's a picture of a test garden I tilled.



    Collecting some fire wood.



    Here's the blade setup I mentioned. Man is it SLICK! I added the wings. Kind of a fun project.




    Here's a few of a chunk of yard I fixed up.







    I don't get any commission from JD. So this is just something I threw together to help spend your $$

    Go look at a dealership and see what you think. Mine actually let me demo a 1026R to see how it fit my property.

    -636
    Early 2012 1026R with H120 and 60" auto connect MMM

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tjc50 View Post
    Any thoughts on position control vs inching valve. I understand the concepts but is the inching valve something you just adjust and learn? Is it still capable of doing a nice even job on a gravel drive or yard?
    Position control is a good thing, like cruise control in your car. An inching valve (what I call a floating control) is like not having cruise. Like you said, you get used to it. You have to look at your implement, which I do anyway. A little practice and you can do just as good a job. Actually sometimes better because you are paying more attention.

    My last three tractors have had floating controls, and even when i get on a machine with position control I rarely use it.

    If I was using it in an ag application and turning at the end of every row position control would be a very good thing. For what I do grading a drive or the yard, I just use what I have and a little operator skill.
    Taking the easy way is what makes rivers and men crooked.

    3039R, H160 FEL, 375A Backhoe, Artillian Grapple & Forks
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