180 degree thermostat for X595
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Thread: 180 degree thermostat for X595

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    180 degree thermostat for X595

    The parts diagram show the thermostat as "CH15536 Thermostat - THERMOSTAT (71 DEG. C)", which is a 160 degree F. thermostat.

    For various reasons I would like to put in a 180 degree F. thermostat.

    Does any know of a part number ... John Deere or otherwise ... that will work?

    Thanks,
    Arvid

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    Quote Originally Posted by arvidj View Post
    The parts diagram show the thermostat as "CH15536 Thermostat - THERMOSTAT (71 DEG. C)", which is a 160 degree F. thermostat.

    For various reasons I would like to put in a 180 degree F. thermostat.

    Does any know of a part number ... John Deere or otherwise ... that will work?

    Thanks,
    Arvid
    What are the various reasons?
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    Quote Originally Posted by H-D dealer dude View Post
    What are the various reasons?
    I think the 160 is too cold and want the engine to run hotter than it currently does. I believe the Diesel will run better at the higher temperature. Some research suggests that Diesels run better at higher temperatures, up to around 200 degrees. Given a 160 degree thermostat I an no where near that value. In the 13 years I've had the X595 I've never seen the temperature needle move more than three needle widths off the bottom peg. Warm and Minnesota is somewhat of an oxymoron.

    Based on some recommendations on this and other sites I had the dealer install a 180 in my 1025R FILB before it was delivered. The 1025R has both a 160 and a 180 listed in the parts catalog. I've not had any heat related issues in the three years I've had it even though a large percentage of the time has been stationary backhoe use.

    Given the "H-D dealer dude" moniker, do you know of a part number that will meet the requirements of 180 degree and fits the Yanmar in a x595?

    Thanks,
    Arvid
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    TJR345's Avatar
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    It shouldn't be a problem the temp sensor switch is set for 230 degrees.I would see if the one in your 1025r will work or go to Napa to see what they can match up.
    Tom

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    Quote Originally Posted by TJR345 View Post
    It shouldn't be a problem the temp sensor switch is set for 230 degrees.I would see if the one in your 1025r will work or go to Napa to see what they can match up.
    That was an early plan except I did not have an X595 or a 1025r thermostat that is not in tractor. Best I will probably be able to do is order a CH15536 [the x595 160 degree version] and then take it places and ask what they might have that looks like this in 180 degrees. I was at the dealer this morning for some other things and they had the CH15536 but did not have either of the 1025R versions on had to look at.

    I was hoping someone might had already done the leg work and would share the results.
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    TJR345's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arvidj View Post

    I was hoping someone might had already done the leg work and would share the results.
    Tag your it.
    Tom

    2019 X590 with power mulch control and PF bagger
    30" mechanical tiller
    02 X595 with 62" deck,front thatcher and powerflow PTO kit
    3pt hitch with Heavy Hitch 45 JD loader
    12 JD suitcase weights
    JD/Brinly 3pt plow
    Frontier SS1036 3pt pto spreader
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    tow behind 15 gal. sprayer
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    Turftime 54" 3pt core aerator

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    In general Diesel engines don't build up much heat in cold weather. Especially if you are not working them. They can idle forever and not heat up.

    If it was my tractor I'd block off some of the airflow going through the radiator. Just keep an eye on your gauge so it doesn't over heat. You will probably need to make some adjustments until you find the sweet spot.
    2014 X540 with HDAP tires, 54" deck, brush guard, arm rests and cargo bag.
    JD 48" plow with angle from seat kit & heavy duty skid shoes.
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    JD JS61 RWD walk behind mower.
    Stihl KM110 power head with pole saw, shaft extension, power scythe, curved shaft edger, 2 straight shaft cutters (string & blade).
    Stihl MS180-CBE 16" saw.
    Stihl SH86C hand held blower vac.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TJR345 View Post
    Tag your it.
    I spend Saturday Googling my tush off. I have several candidates and will be buying a CH15536 to actually have one to measure and compare and will be buying a couple of the candidates to see how they compare. Hopefully I will have something to report in a week or so.

    Arvid
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    Quote Originally Posted by H-D dealer dude View Post
    In general Diesel engines don't build up much heat in cold weather. Especially if you are not working them. They can idle forever and not heat up.

    If it was my tractor I'd block off some of the airflow going through the radiator. Just keep an eye on your gauge so it doesn't over heat. You will probably need to make some adjustments until you find the sweet spot.
    I'd thought about blocking it off. Several weeks ago I removed snow with the outside temperature in the single digits. Last week in the 30's. Having calibrated cardboard for all occasions for "tuning" seemed impractical.

    I'd rather get a thermostat that would allow the motor to come up to the temperature I want and then let the thermostat work with the liquid cooling system to keep the engine at that setting.

    If the engine does not generate enough heat to get the thermostat and the liquid cooling engaged in the process then the implication is that other methods would need address the air cooling of the engine that is taking place ... i.e. heating the intake air, closing off the sides, yes, cardboard to minimize the airflow over the engine from the fan, etc. But the key being the thermostat to maintain the temperature once the "lack of heat generation" has been resolved.

    Thanks,
    Arvid

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    Quote Originally Posted by arvidj View Post
    I'd thought about blocking it off. Several weeks ago I removed snow with the outside temperature in the single digits. Last week in the 30's. Having calibrated cardboard for all occasions for "tuning" seemed impractical.

    I'd rather get a thermostat that would allow the motor to come up to the temperature I want and then let the thermostat work with the liquid cooling system to keep the engine at that setting.

    If the engine does not generate enough heat to get the thermostat and the liquid cooling engaged in the process then the implication is that other methods would need address the air cooling of the engine that is taking place ... i.e. heating the intake air, closing off the sides, yes, cardboard to minimize the airflow over the engine from the fan, etc. But the key being the thermostat to maintain the temperature once the "lack of heat generation" has been resolved.

    Thanks,
    Arvid
    I hear what you are saying about calibrated cardboard and letting the t-stat do the work. I completely agree. That said... I have never worked on a X595 but I have a X585 (gas version of the same tractor) and assuming the radiator/screen and such is all the same (kind of doubt it is different) it would be pretty easy to do the radiator block off if it were too much of a hassle to go the T-stat route or if one is simply not available.

    On the X585 I pop the hood and on the left side of the machine is access to the screen. This should be pulled periodically as this is the prefilter to keep a lot of the grass clippings and other junk out of the radiator. This screen could be pulled and replaced with a bit of sheet metal with holes cut in it based on the ambient air temp and what you want for limited air flow. Much easier than trying to stuff cardboard around the radiator. You could completely remove the screen for the winter and go with the obstructed "screen". Since you are not cutting grass in the winter dust and debris is less of a concern so not a big deal to run without the screen but I would put it back in place in the summer if you mow with this machine.

    I have a couple motorcycles and it is kind of neat where someone went through and found a bunch of automotive equivalents for some of the parts. The T-stat was one of the. Turns out the 1990 or so Honda Civic used the exact same T-stat and was about $10-15 vs $50 at the dealer. It ran a little hotter but not much. Something like 160 vs 140 on the original motorcycle one.

    I have found a couple things. For instance one on my X585 is that the fuel pump is only sold as an assembly by JD. Same thing with my motorcycle. We found the same fuel pump in the automotive market for $50 vs the $600 for the assembly in the motorcycle. I had to pull the fuel pump on my X585 a couple years ago. Hey look at that, the same fuel pump that my motorcycle uses that we found the automotive equivalent for. So if it ever fails, I am not going to have to buy the assembly. Good luck in your search. I don't know of a reference chart though on the JD side.
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