JD 160 trans in a JD 165?
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Thread: JD 160 trans in a JD 165?

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    JD 160 trans in a JD 165?

    Hi everyone, I have a JD 160 and a 165, I would like to know if I can just swap the manual gear drive trans from my 160 and put it into the 165? The 165 has some internal issues with the tranny and needs replaced, but the 160 trans works fine. I am hoping to make 1 nice mower out of the two and the 165 is a much better starting point and in much better condition.

    Anyone know if this can be easily done or has anyone else done this and could offer any input? They both visually look identicle and the parts all seem like this would be a simple bolt off bolt on task, but is there something I may be missing or will come upon that won't work? I have all the parts on both, just want to scrap the hydro and put put the manual tranny in.

    Thanks in advance

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    Nobody have any input?

    I sure thought someone here had some input. Will check back later.

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    I've wondered the same thing, just in the opposite direction. I have a 180 that I purchased from the original owner. It's in great shape except for the broken geared transaxle. I have a 165 that's not quite as nice but has a good hydro. My 165 is usable as-is and is currently hooked up to my snow blower.

    It seems to me that the swap should be possible given that the frame is the same and the hand controls are in the same locations. The brake disc and caliper are on opposite sides so you'd have to swap the linkage. You'd also have to bring over the clutch pedal and associated linkage. I'm not certain but it seems that the drive belt length is likely different so you'd have to bring it over as well.

    There's probably other related assemblies that would need consideration but that's what comes to mind for me at the moment.

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    Swap In Progress

    So, although it would appear my swap would have been a simple one, it is not. I have had to swap every bracket, support, pedal, lever, ect. Since I have a complete 160 this has not been difficult but it is alot of parts swapping....off with the 2 old ones, on with the new....so everything is done 3 times haha. The only really big pain in the azz I ran into was the pulley on the 160 under the engine. John Deere must have farmed that pulley assembly out to Harley-Davidson because to get it off you have to pull the motor to lift it up far enough to get the bolt out. I guess if you were to just buy a new bolt you could save the time I had to spend getting the one out of the 160 to put in the 165 but you would still have to pull the motor in the 165 to get the bolt in. There is a small indent in the frame under the motor that the bolt sits in and slides, that is the only pain in the butt I came across, the rest is just alot of taking off and putting back on 3 times. The belts are different too in case someone needed to know. It is a doable task, but one that definatley requires a little bit of time and alot of beer.

    I still have to fight with the wheels to get them off both rears, that's another days fight.

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    Quote Originally Posted by talon0930 View Post
    So, although it would appear my swap would have been a simple one, it is not. I have had to swap every bracket, support, pedal, lever, ect. Since I have a complete 160 this has not been difficult but it is alot of parts swapping....off with the 2 old ones, on with the new....so everything is done 3 times haha. The only really big pain in the azz I ran into was the pulley on the 160 under the engine. John Deere must have farmed that pulley assembly out to Harley-Davidson because to get it off you have to pull the motor to lift it up far enough to get the bolt out. I guess if you were to just buy a new bolt you could save the time I had to spend getting the one out of the 160 to put in the 165 but you would still have to pull the motor in the 165 to get the bolt in. There is a small indent in the frame under the motor that the bolt sits in and slides, that is the only pain in the butt I came across, the rest is just alot of taking off and putting back on 3 times. The belts are different too in case someone needed to know. It is a doable task, but one that definatley requires a little bit of time and alot of beer.

    I still have to fight with the wheels to get them off both rears, that's another days fight.
    Good luck getting those wheels off after 30 years of being installed.

    I had to rebuild the trans on my 1986 JD180 - I got the RHS one off, but the LHS would NOT come off the shaft. Ended up pulling the trans with the tire/wheel in-place, disassembling the entire thing, then had to try to get the shaft out of the wheel. Despite using endless amounts of both penetrant AND heat via Oxyacetelene torch and a 25 ton press I was unable to separate them, all I did was turn the wheel into a piece of art-deco scrap...I ended up cutting the hub out of the wheel, then cutting the hub off of the shaft (had to take careful slices off the hub and peel it off of the shaft)

    My transmission "repair" ended up costing me upwards of $550.

    Replaced the 180 with a 1025R in the spring and she's sat in my shed ever since. I need to find a good home for it still.....In the past (3) years I've rebuilt almost everything on it (trans, mower deck, PTO, etc.) Now I'm just looking to sell it for the cost of the repairs I've done in the past couple seasons.
    -Scott-

    2014 1025R - 60D 7-Iron MMM, H120 53" FEL/Ballast Box, Ken's hooks and Piranha toothbar, BB2048L Boxblade, 54" snowblade Quick-tatch w/full hydraulic lift/tilt.

    You don't have to outrun the bear......just the other campers

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    Yeah, wheel removal can be a real bear. I've had to install tubes on one of my 180's with the rims still on the tractor because they would not come off no matter what I tried. Fortunately the wheels slide right off my 165 and my better 180.

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