Broken height adjustment on 60" for 455 AWS
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Thread: Broken height adjustment on 60" for 455 AWS

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    Moon_Man's Avatar
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    Broken height adjustment on 60" for 455 AWS

    Newbie here. Well, new to JD, not to fixing garden tractors (Cub 1863). Anyway, the height adjustment on my 455 AWS for the 60" deck isn't working. Tough to move, adjustment indicator doesn't move, deck drops to the wheels no matter what. I know I've got to take off the fender deck (thanks to all those at ByNet who have already chimed in) and look at the mechanism. I was wondering if anyone here has had a similar problem and experience. Thanks.

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    Brian's Avatar
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    I am unfamiliar with the AWS, but is your deck level adjustable on the floor in the center of your feet?



    Brian

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    Moon_Man's Avatar
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    Yup. The plastic wheel with the flip up handle. I've got the pages from the service manual that show how it's supposed to look and be adjusted, I was just wondering if there was anyone who knew of a "standard" problem that I should be looking for.

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    DRobinson's Avatar
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    I have had the same problem after removing and reinstalling the fender deck (searching for an oil leak) on my 445, which should be the same as the 455. It has been some time ago and as I recall I didn't get the adjuster aligned properly when reinstalling. Also the indicator was not visiible. Apparently, I bent the indicator during the process. I adjusted the indicator by twisting it with an adjustable wrench . The depth adjustment is a simple screw type adjustment. Maybe some lubrication would help. I haven't tried, but you may be able to get at it with a spray can with a straw from the bottom. I notice in the spring after not using it in the winter, it is usually hard to turn the first time. The next time I have my mower deck off, I will try to lubricate the adjuster. The most difficult part for me was removing and aligning the fender deck.
    Don

    2320, 54D MMM, 200CX FEL, 54 Front Blade with Artillian Extensions, Omni Transformer Hitch
    445, 54 mower and 54 front blade
    80 dump cart, 21 walk behind mower

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    Moon_Man's Avatar
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    Well, due to a crummy weather weekend, I had plenty of time to play with the 455. Dropped the deck and removed the Tricycler that just made a mess of my lawn. Cleaned up the deck under and top and installed Gatorblades. Then I took off the fender deck and the footrests. Not exactly sure what the issue was with the height adjustment but lubed everything up, cleaned everything up, took off the brackets for the JD cab (they were bugging me) and put her all back together. Reinstalled the deck (more on that in a sec). Adjusted upward travel and side-to-side level of the deck by the wireform lift links. Then adjusted the height of the blades. Warning - the Owners Manual is a little counter-intuitive until you finally get it, then it makes perfect sense (or it could just be me). Tried her on some long grass and it worked beautifully. Man oh man that AWS sure makes life easy.

    Now - my question. I have a manual for the 54" belted deck, not the 60" driveshaft deck that I have, so I had to figure out the driveshaft issues by myself. No biggie, except for the reinstall. What a pain! I used a jack on the front for more clearance, without that I don't see how you could get your hand/arm underneath there to get the female union on the spline. What am I doing wrong??? It finally went after I locked the sleeve back (for the 20th time), but that sure is frustrating. I even tried taking the shaft off at the mower end (one tightening bolt) but I don't have X/32 sockets and that's apparently what was needed, and that sucker was really tight.

    So - what am I doing wrong?? Thanks.

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    Brian's Avatar
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    The drive shaft and the shaft both need to be clean and slightly lubed prior to starting this. I always put the drive shaft on first before hooking up the deck. That would allow me to push the deck farther forward and extend the mower shaft a bit to make room for my hands.

    I always got the splines started then pulled back on the coupler to release the balls.



    Brian

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    Moon_Man's Avatar
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    So it sounds like I was doing it correctly, as I did the shaft before the deck as well. OK then!

    Next question - the Service Manual mentions the deck J-pins should be used to hold up the lift arms when the deck is not is use. But I have the lift arms with the stop bolts - no J-pins although I can see where you would put them. How do I keep the arms up when I take off the deck?

    Sorry for all the newbie questions. Thanks for all your help!!!

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    Brian's Avatar
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    IIRC, you can push the bolts with lock nuts up and backwards and they will move out of the way. Its been a while since I did that since my 445 ended up being a lawn mowing machine only and I recently got rid of it. If you post up a picture I will be able to describe it in more detail.



    Brian

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    DRobinson's Avatar
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    That's a good idea, Brian. I think Moon, that Brian is saying to connect the drive shaft first and then make the lift and front connections on the deck. I will try that next time I have my deck off. Otherwise, you need an arm about four feet long with three elbows to connect the shaft. Connecting the shaft is one of the best selling points for me to buy either a 1026R or 2X20 tractor with an AutoConnect mower next year. I should say excuse, because I want a bigger 4WD, diesel with a loader.
    Don

    2320, 54D MMM, 200CX FEL, 54 Front Blade with Artillian Extensions, Omni Transformer Hitch
    445, 54 mower and 54 front blade
    80 dump cart, 21 walk behind mower

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    Moon_Man's Avatar
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    Yup, that's what I did. Drive shaft was a pain but the deck itself was easy.

    Now about those lift arms in the off-season......

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