No transaxle fluid....
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    orono's Avatar
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    No transaxle fluid....

    I admit now and have numerous times before that I am relatively new to my X738 (24 hrs on my machine) and tractors in general. That being said, I removed my soft cab today, replaced my (snow) blade with my de-thatcher and to feel like a person who knows stuff, I checked my transaxle dipstick.....wait for it......PISSED....nothing on the dipstick with the dipstick resting on the cowling or nothing on dipstick with it turned all the way in....I'm pissed. Not sure I should be but I am.

    I am going to contact my dealer tomorrow (whom I have a good relationship with and I'm in discussion on buying a 1025r from him) and ask what the hell??!!

    I probably should have checked this earlier but I did not. I just assumed, yes I know what "assume" means, that everything on my tractor should have been ready for a new user to use.

    Maybe this machine (and others like it) use amounts of transaxle oil that I would call excessive. My machine does not have a leak (no visible liquids on the ground). Maybe I am over-reacting. Please tell me if I am. Maybe it is as simple as adding Low Viscosity HY-GARD (JD02) as my manual states.
    Mike

    2018 1025R w/120R FEL
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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    Should have fluid on the dip sticks (thinking 2 maybe 3 maybe 1 havn't been near the x738 for over a month), on front axle , if it hadn't been running within say 30-60 mins. Can't remember the length of time manual says.
    With setting level check the level and thinking you only insert the dip stick in the hole , without tightening.

    If not get your manual out and it will tell you what to do with awd front axle and transaxle.

    Your manual is your best friend, that is the only way you will learn and remember what needs to be done. .I had never changed the front axle on the x738 took my time went step by step and its been fine for past 2 years. Guessing you need to add maybe a 1/2 pint and then check fluid levels and keep doing this till it is full.

    Oh and in the manual there are some pretty good photos to go by..
    Gene

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    JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54" bucket, 54" mmm Auto Conn, 54" Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48" Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5' rear blade, a new 47" JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater.
    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by orono View Post
    Maybe this machine (and others like it) use amounts of transaxle oil that I would call excessive. My machine does not have a leak (no visible liquids on the ground). Maybe I am over-reacting. Please tell me if I am. Maybe it is as simple as adding Low Viscosity HY-GARD (JD02) as my manual states.
    Tractors with hydro transmissions and hydraulics do not consume oil. The only way to lose oil is via a leak - or maybe it wasn't full to start with. I would first park the machine on a level surface and let it sit overnight and then recheck the fluid level. If it is still low add some fluid and monitor the level.

    These tractors hold a fair amount of oil in the sump. If the oil level gets too low you will likely hear strange groaning noises and/or experience issues with movement going forward/backward and/or the pedals will feel strange. Otherwise a low oil level can cause the oil to run a bit warmer than normal. You'll have less risk of over heating the oil during the winter than you would a 100-degree summer day.

    Let us know what you find when you recheck the oil.
    Last edited by jgayman; 03-25-2018 at 09:29 PM.
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    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Was there ever fluid on the dipstick or did you never check it and assume the dealer did?

    There was an issue with the AWD units being under filled on the assembly line due to oil aeration from filling them too fast and the extra capacity needed for the front axle.

    Your dealer should have checked all fluids in the pre delivery inspection!
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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    Whenever I get my truck serviced at the shop I always check the fluids and anything else they have touched. I’ve found the oil 1 quart low, 1 quart high, and the oil fill cap laying on the engine.

    As an operator we all have to take some responsibilty for some basic things like checking fluids on a regular basis.
    ~Stan~
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    Quote Originally Posted by coaltrain View Post
    Whenever I get my truck serviced at the shop I always check the fluids and anything else they have touched. I’ve found the oil 1 quart low, 1 quart high, and the oil fill cap laying on the engine.

    As an operator we all have to take some responsibilty for some basic things like checking fluids on a regular basis.
    I have had my F250 for 10 years now. I had it at a local shop for some work and decided to have them do my oil change. I provided the materials which included 4 gallons of oil. My truck calls for 15 quarts so I expected to get a quart of oil leftover in one of the gallons I provided. I did not. So, I checked the dipstick and it was high! I could have just drained out the quart (I have a Fumoto valve) but decided to make a point with the shop. The tech insisted that he added until the dipstick showed full. I have always followed the manual, and checked later to be sure. Once again, I was reminded why I tend to always do this stuff myself. This was the only time anyone but me has done the oil change on my truck.

    Lee
    2305, 200CX loader w/53" bucket, 62C MMM, and 47 SB.

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    You said you removed your snow blade. If you bought your snow plow new it may have used some of the transaxle fluid to fill the cylinders which raise & angle the blade. I am not sure if the cylinders come filled from the factory or not. At any rate they should not have taken much oil and it should have been rechecked by the dealer if they installed it.

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry View Post
    You said you removed your snow blade. If you bought your snow plow new it may have used some of the transaxle fluid to fill the cylinders which raise & angle the blade. I am not sure if the cylinders come filled from the factory or not. At any rate they should not have taken much oil and it should have been rechecked by the dealer if they installed it.
    Good call! I'm always amazed at how much my fluid level changes when I remove an implement with a hydraulic cylinder. I always try to store hydraulic implements with the cylinders retracted all the way. It can be a Catch-22 sometimes with these small tractors that have small sumps. If I remove the loader and attach the rear hydraulic blade then the level is low. If I add some oil then when I remove the blade and install the loader it is a tad over full. It's tough to stay somewhere in the middle if you are swapping implements.
    etcallhome and BigJim55 like this.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    orono's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExperimentalMechanic View Post
    Was there ever fluid on the dipstick or did you never check it and assume the dealer did?
    I just assumed the dealer did. My fault.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry View Post
    You said you removed your snow blade. If you bought your snow plow new it may have used some of the transaxle fluid to fill the cylinders which raise & angle the blade. I am not sure if the cylinders come filled from the factory or not. At any rate they should not have taken much oil and it should have been rechecked by the dealer if they installed it.
    I removed only the blade. I left the Quickhitch attached. No real reason for only removing the blade by itself. I only checked the rear dipstick.

    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    Good call! I'm always amazed at how much my fluid level changes when I remove an implement with a hydraulic cylinder. I always try to store hydraulic implements with the cylinders retracted all the way. It can be a Catch-22 sometimes with these small tractors that have small sumps. If I remove the loader and attach the rear hydraulic blade then the level is low. If I add some oil then when I remove the blade and install the loader it is a tad over full. It's tough to stay somewhere in the middle if you are swapping implements.
    This is challenging to me. I have 2 cylinders on my Quickhitch and I left them attached to the machine. Are you saying that if I remove my Quickhitch, my fluid level in my machine may increase? In my mind, if I was to remove my Qucikhitch with 2 cylinders or any implement with hoses or cylinders, the fluid in the lines and cylinders would stay in the lines and cylinders and not go back into the machine, correct? Or am I missing something very basic to "Tractor Ownership 101?"

    By the way, if I should be retracting my implements, what position would my blade/Quickhitch be in to be considered retracted?

    I appreciate the comments.
    Last edited by orono; 03-26-2018 at 11:30 AM.
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    Mike

    2018 1025R w/120R FEL
    54" Quickhitch snowblower (JD)
    54" Quickhitch blade (JD) with Artillian wings
    54" JD MMM
    Frontier RC 2048
    Titan 36" forks
    53" Heavy Hitch tooth bar
    MCS 20 w/ Power Flow
    Heavy Hitch
    I-Match - JD
    16 - 42# suitcase weights (JD)
    3 pt sprayer (Northern Tool)
    3 pt plug aerator (DR Equipment),
    54" Quichitch (DL) de-thatcher (JD)
    Ken's Bolt-on-Hooks
    Stihl chainsaws, brushcutter, blower, trimmer

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    Mike, Nope, ya didn't miss anything in Tractor Ownership 101. The oil will stay captive in the cylinders & hoses...maybe minus a few drops when you disconnect them. BUT, it takes less oil to retract a cylinder than to extend one. If your level was checked & correct with all cylinders extended, and you retract your cylinders when you remove an implement, your level will be slightly higher. If the level was checked & correct with the cylinders retracted and you extend the cylinders when you remove an implement, your level will be low. Depending on the number of cylinders, we're probably only talking about a quart of oil, but that WILL show on your level.

    I think your dealer screwed up. He should have filled all your lines & cylinders BEFORE delivering the tractor. I hope this explains some things! Bob
    etcallhome and orono like this.

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