Thinking about trading my x738 for a 1025r
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Thread: Thinking about trading my x738 for a 1025r

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    Thinking about trading my x738 for a 1025r

    I have a 2016 x738 with 45 hours. It has a 60hc mower deck with mulch kit installed, click-n-go bracket with 6 suitcase weights, 54" plow and also add armrest to the seat. I was thinking of adding a 3 point hitch and the little buck loader to the x738. I was wondering if I'm better off trading for a 1025r instead? Only things that I think I get keep for the 1025r from the x738 is the 54" plow and suitcase weights.
    Another thing is that I never owned anything diesel before. How does the diesel engine do in cold winter starting? Do I need to treat the fuel? Anything else that I need to know about diesel engines?
    I would want the loader, front wheel fenders and 60 inch mower deck with mulch kit on the 1025r. The John Deere dealer is stopping by tomorrow morning to look at my x738 for trade. Any advice on trade in value or what should I ask for to make the deal happen? I still owe $9500 on the x738 with Deere 0% financing.
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    Corndog Hater ColonyPark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultra7350 View Post
    I have a 2016 x738 with 45 hours. It has a 60hc mower deck with mulch kit installed, click-n-go bracket with 6 suitcase weights, 54" plow and also add armrest to the seat. I was thinking of adding a 3 point hitch and the little buck loader to the x738. I was wondering if I'm better off trading for a 1025r instead? Only things that I think I get keep for the 1025r from the x738 is the 54" plow and suitcase weights.
    Another thing is that I never owned anything diesel before. How does the diesel engine do in cold winter starting? Do I need to treat the fuel? Anything else that I need to know about diesel engines?
    I would want the loader, front wheel fenders and 60 inch mower deck with mulch kit on the 1025r. The John Deere dealer is stopping by tomorrow morning to look at my x738 for trade. Any advice on trade in value or what should I ask for to make the deal happen? I still owe $9500 on the x738 with Deere 0% financing.

    I will be the odd man out, and tell you to think long and hard on trading. You will probably take a big hit on the trade vs. what you owe. I would add the little buck loader and 3PH to the X738. If you are like me, mowing is the biggest accumulators of hours on my machine. I you will find the X738 to be a better mowing machine.

    Yes, you should treat the diesel fuel. I don't have any trouble starting my diesel in the winter. It is kept in my barn or garage, both of which are unheated.

    Also unless things have changes, I don't believe there are front fenders for the 1 series. If there are, I want a set.

    Good luck and have fun
    Jamie

    2011 JD 1026R - w/60" NON-AutoConnect MMM, FEL w/WR Long Toothbar, 47" Front Mount Snowblower, 54" Front Mount Blade w/ Rubber Edge, 48" KingKutter Tiller & Brush Hog, CountyLine Carry All and CountyLine 60" Rear Blade, Pat's EZ-Change Quick Hitch System
    1990 JD 185 - 46"MMM w/Power Flow Bagger

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    My neighbor has the 1023r and I have the x730. Chatting about it the other day, he said he came from an x7 w/ aftermarket loader, plow and MMM. He said that the loader is far superior, its nice to have the 3ph; but he misses the x7 for the mow and comfort. He likened it to a Hard riding Truck vs. a mild mannered SUV. He doesnt use the PTO. It depends on what you need.

    I dont need the 3ph or the PTO , so I am good with the x7 and Little Buck for mulch/gravel/loam work, and some light digging of topsoil.
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    There are millions of threads discussion x7-series versus 1-series pros and cons so I won't get into that again. But as far as the diesel goes I'll say that after two winters my x758 has given me zero problems related to cold starting. I keep it plugged into a battery tender in the winter. When I need to start it I just turn the key, wait for the glow plug light to go out and bingo, it fires up quickly.

    Only starting issue I have had was after changing the fuel filter (and then again after having to remove the filter housing to fix a leak). Man, that engine takes a long time to get started after opening the fuel system like that. And yes, I did use the manual priming pump.

    Rob
    Levi, Herminator and PJR832 like this.
    2016 x758 w/60" HC mower, 54" snowblower, MC519 bagger
    2010 2520 w/61" H130 loader, TA 42" forks, KK 60" Pro tiller, iMatch quick hitch, KK middle buster
    1996 345 - Traded
    Other toys: Stihl BR600 backpack blower; McCulloch chainsaws: 10-10S, 700, 805, 10-10; JD trimmer

    2520:__________________________x758:__________________________Faithful 345:___________________

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    Ray_PA's Avatar
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    I traded a 2007 - X748 on my 2013 - 1025R. I got a good price for my trade in when I bought my 1025R but then mine was a few years old.

    Diesel is the way to go. They all have glow plugs so cold starts is not problem.

    Concerning treating fuel, if you temps get below 25 degrees, then you should treat with something like Howes diesel treatment.

    Fuel usage with a diesel is crazy better than a gasoline engine.
    Last edited by Ray_PA; 04-06-2018 at 02:32 PM.
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    JD 1025 TLB (2013) ** 60D 7 Iron MMM w/auto-connect ** H120 FEL** 260 BH ** 54" snowblower ** 54" blade ** 52" Front Broom ** Ken's Bolt on Hooks ** Frontier BB2048L box scraper ** County Line 5' landscape rake ** JD Hydraulic Dump MCS ** Artillian Forks w/36" Forks ** JD 3 - Point Ballast Box ** JD I-Match Quick Hitch ** Heavy Hitch front Weight Bar ** Heavy Hitch 3 Point Weight Bar ** Fimco 40 Gallon Sprayer ** EA Aerator ** FitRite Hydraulics Rear SCV ** 12 - 40# suitcase weights

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    Bonehead Club Lackey Levi's Avatar
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    Owing $9500.00 on your tractor, I'd keep it. You won't get much more for it on trade if you do get more then you owe. I'd see what he says and go from there. Also depends on how much you want the 1025 and how much money you want to spend.
    ColonyPark, Ray_PA, tj1 and 3 others like this.
    1026R -- 60D mmm -- H120 Loader -- Curtis 150 Tiller -- DR 3 point Chipper -- Howse Middle Buster -- Brinly 16 Blade Disk -- Kodiak 5' Box Blade -- 12-42 lb. suitcase weights -- Lawn roller -- Upgraded seat springs from psrumors -- Kennyd's bolt on hooks & clevis -- BXpanded tooth bar -- CMI 6' wagon -- Heavy Hitch Cultivator /garden bedder / hiller attachments --

    Donated by some great people/vendors on here: 72 lb. wheel weights -- Bro-Tek 1½" rear wheel spacers.
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    It can't hurt to let the dealer run the numbers and see how much they offer you, I was very surprised at what my dealer gave me for my 1023 to trade up to the new 2025R. However, i agree with some others, unless you are going to do a fair amount of 3 point work I'd stick the X series if the main task is mowing and snow removal.
    ColonyPark, Levi, Ray_PA and 4 others like this.
    Pat
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    I will see what numbers the dealer will give me tomorrow. I mainly use my x738 for mowing and to plow snow in the winter. I mainly wanted the little buck loader to move rock and loose dirt around. I figured that I could get more work done with the 1025r loader. I wanted the 3 point hitch with some attachment to replace the spike harrow that I have been dragging behind the x738. Some the bigger dirt moving jobs might be too big for the 1025r anyway. I have been hiring skid loader work for those jobs in the past.
    I may be better off keeping the x738 if most people think it is better for mowing than the 1025r.
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    sennister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultra7350 View Post
    I will see what numbers the dealer will give me tomorrow. I mainly use my x738 for mowing and to plow snow in the winter. I mainly wanted the little buck loader to move rock and loose dirt around. I figured that I could get more work done with the 1025r loader. I wanted the 3 point hitch with some attachment to replace the spike harrow that I have been dragging behind the x738. Some the bigger dirt moving jobs might be too big for the 1025r anyway. I have been hiring skid loader work for those jobs in the past.
    I may be better off keeping the x738 if most people think it is better for mowing than the 1025r.
    You really have to look at what you will use a FEL for. Everyone is different and has different needs. I use my FEL for moving big heavy stuff more than I ever dig in the dirt.

    As for snow work and your blade. I don't think the quick hitch from a X7xx will fit a 1025R. So you will need one of those. Personally I would look at a blade that mounts to a FEL over doing the blade on the front of the machine. We may get more snow than you do but it makes it easier for stacking up the snow. 3pt can be added to a X Series but you have limited options on the FEL front.
    ColonyPark, Levi, tj1 and 3 others like this.


    JD Z950R 60" Deck with DFS Collection System

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    CTC Model X4750 F.E.L - Modified Imp Pressure Relief from 900 to 1175PSI, Power Flow and MC519 cart, 54-inch Quick-Hitch Front Blade, 47-inch Quick-Hitch Snow Blower, 3-pt hitch, HF Quick Hitch, Heavy Hitch, 48" box blade/rear blade, Dethacher, 3pt Sprayer

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray_PA View Post
    I traded a 2007 - X748 on my 2013 - 1025R. I got a good price for my trade in when I bought my 1025R but then mine was a few years old.

    Diesel is the way to go. They all have glow plugs so cold starts is not problem.

    Concerning treating fuel, if you temps get below 25 degrees, then you should treat with something like Howes diesel treatment.

    Fuel usage with a diesel is crazy better than a gasoline engine.
    After I bought my first diesel tractor I will never go back to gas. I spent about $450.00 on fuel this 6 month long winter operating my 2017 JD4044M if it had been done by my MF135 1967 Gas Perkins it would be double that easy. I only need to do this for 30 more years to break even on fuel savings but the MF135 has nothing on the confert of my new 4044M tractor doing stuff. Can't take the money with you so blow it on a good tractor. Better return investment on your money then a $50,000.00 truck plus trailer to tow it around with. Winter starts no problem at all. Pre Heater light goes off hit the key it runs! Warm it up some first then put it to work.
    Levi, Marlin, mcavvie and 1 others like this.

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