Help! Blades won't run
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Thread: Help! Blades won't run

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    Help! Blades won't run

    I have an S240. A few weeks ago, I was cutting the grass and hit a pine root and it stopped the mower cold. The blades ran rough for a few minutes and then settled down. I cut the llawn two more times without issues. This past Sat., I cut the lawn for about an hour. The deck shuddered hard and the blades stopped working. Once it cooled down, the blades will engage (rough) and run for a few seconds before they stop again. Is the PTO ruined? Is is something on the deck? What do I need to look for? I am a LOUSY mechanic, but it is going to be weeks before I can get someone to look at it. ANY and ALL good advice will be appreciated!!! THANKS!!

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    Well.... The good news is that your mower deck is driven by a belt. My *GUESS* is that you probably bent a blade and possibly a spindle. Those would explain the mower deck being "rough". If you bent one, it's out of balance.

    The simplest starting point would be to remove the mower deck from the machine, flip it up and take a look at those blades. Once it's off you can also rotate the blades by hand and get a feel if the spindle is hanging up/bent.
    Gizmo2, Drifterbike and PJR832 like this.
    D160 Mower/Bagger.
    2014 2032R tractor/H130 FEL w/Bolt-On Hooks/54" Snow Plow/iMatch Quick-Hitch/County Line 5' Scraper blade/County Line Carry-All/Artillian 42" Forks & QH Adapter/JD Ballast Box/Frontier SB1164 3PH Blower/Leinbach PHD/Wallenstien BX42 Chipper

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    Harris (05-23-2018)

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    Thanks! Will take the deck off tomorrow.

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    Drifterbike's Avatar
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    Jim gave you sound advice. I had that happen once and after two more times mowing one of the blades broke in half. talk about running rough. good luck
    BigJim55 likes this.
    2018 2038R 220R FEL, 72" Mower, Radial tires, wheel spacers, dual rear SVCs, CtA grapple, single point for FEL, 60" broom with front hitch;2018 1025R 54"auto connect, HDAP tires, Quick Hitch, Ballast Box, Etc...;1967 1020 3cylinder gas, #47 FEL, 72" Landpride Grooming Mower, 6ft box blade, For Sale(no Hurry); life Member NRA since 1974

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    Harris (05-23-2018)

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    So, I got the deck off. Everything turns easily, but as one of the blades turns, there is a metal on metal scraping sound just under the pulley wheel through about 20 to 25% of the turn. Is that enough to cause the blades to stop turning altogether? As described above, they run rough for a few second and then quit. I realize that it doesn't take much at those speeds to really throw it off. I did not see any obvious/severe damage to either blade. Again, any advice you can give will be appreciated. Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Harris View Post
    So, I got the deck off. Everything turns easily, but as one of the blades turns, there is a metal on metal scraping sound just under the pulley wheel through about 20 to 25% of the turn. Is that enough to cause the blades to stop turning altogether? As described above, they run rough for a few second and then quit. I realize that it doesn't take much at those speeds to really throw it off. I did not see any obvious/severe damage to either blade. Again, any advice you can give will be appreciated. Thanks!

    Metal-on-metal scraping sounds are pretty much never a good thing. And yes, it could cause the blades to stop completely. Metal-on-metal friction at high speeds creates a lot of heat and the metal expands. If it expands enough, the friction builds but until the pulleys can't over-come the resistance created by the friction.

    I'd disassemble that spindle and see if you can find where the metal-to-metal contact is being made. Odds are that either one or both of the pieces scraping are bent.
    D160 Mower/Bagger.
    2014 2032R tractor/H130 FEL w/Bolt-On Hooks/54" Snow Plow/iMatch Quick-Hitch/County Line 5' Scraper blade/County Line Carry-All/Artillian 42" Forks & QH Adapter/JD Ballast Box/Frontier SB1164 3PH Blower/Leinbach PHD/Wallenstien BX42 Chipper

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    Harris (05-23-2018)

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