X758 Stalling problems
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    X758 Stalling problems

    Hi there

    My X758 has begun to stall...almost like it runs out of fuel. I searched this forum and found a thread about almost the same thing but mine is different.

    I would be running about 10 to 20 minutes and then the engine would slow and either gradually stop or regain itself. If it stalled, I could just turn the key and it would start right back up again. After a while, it would stall or slow and regain after 2 or 3 minutes.

    After reading the previous thread about the same thing, I took to troubleshooting fuel lines. The pick up pump pumps well, the fuel filter is clean with no sediment or water in the bulb and I even took the pick up pump apart to clean and blow out any dirt.

    I think this may be electrical in nature. The reason I say so is that I notice before the engine is about to slow to a stall, or even stall, the engine oil light comes on. The oil level is fine, I checked it many times. I am wondering if there is a engine cut off attached to the oil pressure gauge? Does that make sense?

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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hirsch57 View Post
    Hi there

    My X758 has begun to stall...almost like it runs out of fuel. I searched this forum and found a thread about almost the same thing but mine is different.

    I would be running about 10 to 20 minutes and then the engine would slow and either gradually stop or regain itself. If it stalled, I could just turn the key and it would start right back up again. After a while, it would stall or slow and regain after 2 or 3 minutes.

    After reading the previous thread about the same thing, I took to troubleshooting fuel lines. The pick up pump pumps well, the fuel filter is clean with no sediment or water in the bulb and I even took the pick up pump apart to clean and blow out any dirt.

    I think this may be electrical in nature. The reason I say so is that I notice before the engine is about to slow to a stall, or even stall, the engine oil light comes on. The oil level is fine, I checked it many times. I am wondering if there is a engine cut off attached to the oil pressure gauge? Does that make sense?
    check the grounds. The main ground, the chassis ground, etc.

    Also, do you have access to a Technical Service Manual? The schematic is extremely handy. I have one for the 455 diesel, but not the newer x758........
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    Sounds fuel related to me also.

    First quick/easy/free test is to loosen the fuel cap a little bit and see if it continues to do it. Sometimes the vent in the fuel cap will get plugged - as fuel starts to be used in the tank - like Your 10-20 minutes - if the vent is blocked it will created a vacuum in the tank and not let fuel flow through the lines.
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    How many hours on your machine?

    I am sure you saw in it mentioned in the other threads you likely read, but some of the fuel lines have been known to weaken and "internally collapse". I had this happen on one of my machines and it was tricky to find. I ran a temporary supply line from the pick up to the fuel filter and discovered it that way.

    Your machine doesn't have the electrical fuel pump like some of the other machines mentioned in the threads about this issue. Your machine uses the Mikuni mechanical fuel pump........which is mounted on the side of the injector pump. To be honest, we just don't see actual "Injector Pump" issues with these Yanmar's. I can't recall when one needed attention......I am referring to the actual Fuel Injector Pump assembly, the device which puts the fuel under very high pressure for injection into the cylinders. I am not referring to the "Fuel Pump", which in your machine, it attached to the injector pump.

    It could be bad fuel......

    Perhaps the fuel has contaminants. Was there any water in your fuel separator or anything unusual about that? I would manually turn the fuel shut off on and off several times, just to make sure there is nothing stuck in it or causing the fuel issue.

    When the machine starts to "lose power", does it matter if you are on a flat surface or a hill?

    Anything else to report, such as "Does it happen when running the PTO only" or does the loss of power and stalling happen regardless of whether the PTO is engaged or not?

    Is the machine running warmer than usual on the temp gauge?

    What makes you think it could be related to the Oil Pressure system or switch? Have you noticed some other issue which brings that to mind?

    Have you changed the fuel filter? If so, do you have it installed tightly in the fuel separator (pressed up on the center mounting post in the container)?

    Any fuel leaks or other fluid leaks you have noticed lately?

    Any idea how ld the fuel is? Did you get it at the same place you normally purchase your fuel? DO you run any fuel treatments in your fuel?

    Does the battery seem fully charged and it easily restarts the machine when needed? If you have the headlights on when you restart the machine, do the headlights dim significantly or almost "go out" when restarting the machine?
    Last edited by SulleyBear; 05-26-2018 at 06:25 PM. Reason: added questions.
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    Fuel Solenoid Switch Operation / Testing
    You could also have a situation where the fuel shut off solenoid is not holding in the open position when the tractor is running, which would cause the shut down. But, generally, these tend to fail and NOT OPEN, failing to permit the tractor to start. I personally haven't seen one which fails to hold in the "Open Position" when the tractor is running, causing the tractor to fail, but it is mentioned in the Technical Service manual as something to check.

    The normal findings for the shut off solenoid should be it maintaining battery voltage with the tractor running.


    Oil Pressure Sensor Switch Operation / Testing
    There is also a testing procedure for testing the Oil Pressure Sensor Switch.....

    1. Set ohm meter for 1x ohms scale
    2. Remove the wire from the center of the oil pressure sensor switch
    3. Connect black lead from ohm meter to engine block
    4. Connect red lead to terminal on the oil pressure switch
    5. Read the Meter....Note reading
    6. Start and run engine, Note reading

    With the engine NOT running, there should be continuity to ground

    With the engine running, NO continuity to ground.

    If the switch does not have continuity to ground when the engine is NOT running, replace the switch.

    If the switch does have continuity to ground when the engine is running, you need to manually check the engine oil pressure to make sure it is within the specifications. If the oil pressure is to specifications, then replace the switch. If the oil pressure is not to specifications, that issue must be resolved.
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    1025R with Mauser Cab
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    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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    I know I'm comparing apples to oranges. But I've mentioned the issues of Harley's X738 since it was new 2 yrs ago. \

    At first the engine seemed to die while going down a hill and then trying to backup. Then it would do it on level , going up a hill, full of gasoline or on a 1/4 tank.
    The mower never shuts off when this happens and engine has never completely stopped running.

    After the dealer had machine for close to 5-6 weeks. maybe more the tech said it finally acted up while he was mowing. The shop finally claimed they found a loose ground wire. They never showed me which one of the grounds was loose.

    So just wondering if same issue with diesel and gasoline engines.

    Knock on wood so over the past 6-8 mowings this season it has only happened once , last season it happened about every other week. Some times 2-4 times while mowing.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    How many hours on your machine?

    I am sure you saw in it mentioned in the other threads you likely read, but some of the fuel lines have been known to weaken and "internally collapse". I had this happen on one of my machines and it was tricky to find. I ran a temporary supply line from the pick up to the fuel filter and discovered it that way.

    Your machine doesn't have the electrical fuel pump like some of the other machines mentioned in the threads about this issue. Your machine uses the Mikuni mechanical fuel pump........which is mounted on the side of the injector pump. To be honest, we just don't see actual "Injector Pump" issues with these Yanmar's. I can't recall when one needed attention......I am referring to the actual Fuel Injector Pump assembly, the device which puts the fuel under very high pressure for injection into the cylinders. I am not referring to the "Fuel Pump", which in your machine, it attached to the injector pump.

    It could be bad fuel......

    Perhaps the fuel has contaminants. Was there any water in your fuel separator or anything unusual about that? I would manually turn the fuel shut off on and off several times, just to make sure there is nothing stuck in it or causing the fuel issue.

    When the machine starts to "lose power", does it matter if you are on a flat surface or a hill?

    Anything else to report, such as "Does it happen when running the PTO only" or does the loss of power and stalling happen regardless of whether the PTO is engaged or not?

    Is the machine running warmer than usual on the temp gauge?

    What makes you think it could be related to the Oil Pressure system or switch? Have you noticed some other issue which brings that to mind?

    Have you changed the fuel filter? If so, do you have it installed tightly in the fuel separator (pressed up on the center mounting post in the container)?

    Any fuel leaks or other fluid leaks you have noticed lately?

    Any idea how ld the fuel is? Did you get it at the same place you normally purchase your fuel? DO you run any fuel treatments in your fuel?

    Does the battery seem fully charged and it easily restarts the machine when needed? If you have the headlights on when you restart the machine, do the headlights dim significantly or almost "go out" when restarting the machine?
    Thanks for the response SulleyBear, let me try to fill you in with info:

    The tractor has about 150 hours on it and it ran fine all winter plowing snow and into the first 2 or 3 lawn cuts this spring. I put a new filter in last spring and recently had the filter out to check for sediment and water in the bowl. No evidence of water (i.e. no white-ish colour) but a wee bit of sediment, which I cleaned out. I did take the pump off and clean it out. I blew through the inlet and outlet to ensure a clear way and there were no blockages.

    It may be bad fuel. I did get my gerry cans filled at a different service station last time around. I may have to resort to draining the fuel tank and trying different fuel. I don't use treatments and the fuel was purchased the same day I started having trouble.

    The stalling happens while the PTO is engaged and throttle is full. It can idle forever...I had it idling for ten minutes and no issues. It doesn't favour hills or flats when stalling. Engine temp is warm, but not over hot. The oil light illuminates at full throttle just before its about to cut out. That's why I thought it may be that.

    I guess I can check the lines but that means getting at the tank, which I really dont know how to do.

    Cheers
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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    Fuel Solenoid Switch Operation / Testing
    You could also have a situation where the fuel shut off solenoid is not holding in the open position when the tractor is running, which would cause the shut down. But, generally, these tend to fail and NOT OPEN, failing to permit the tractor to start. I personally haven't seen one which fails to hold in the "Open Position" when the tractor is running, causing the tractor to fail, but it is mentioned in the Technical Service manual as something to check.

    The normal findings for the shut off solenoid should be it maintaining battery voltage with the tractor running.


    Oil Pressure Sensor Switch Operation / Testing
    There is also a testing procedure for testing the Oil Pressure Sensor Switch.....

    1. Set ohm meter for 1x ohms scale
    2. Remove the wire from the center of the oil pressure sensor switch
    3. Connect black lead from ohm meter to engine block
    4. Connect red lead to terminal on the oil pressure switch
    5. Read the Meter....Note reading
    6. Start and run engine, Note reading

    With the engine NOT running, there should be continuity to ground

    With the engine running, NO continuity to ground.

    If the switch does not have continuity to ground when the engine is NOT running, replace the switch.

    If the switch does have continuity to ground when the engine is running, you need to manually check the engine oil pressure to make sure it is within the specifications. If the oil pressure is to specifications, then replace the switch. If the oil pressure is not to specifications, that issue must be resolved.
    Thanks SulleyBear, will give that a try.
    SulleyBear likes this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by coaltrain View Post
    Sounds fuel related to me also.

    First quick/easy/free test is to loosen the fuel cap a little bit and see if it continues to do it. Sometimes the vent in the fuel cap will get plugged - as fuel starts to be used in the tank - like Your 10-20 minutes - if the vent is blocked it will created a vacuum in the tank and not let fuel flow through the lines.
    I tried that too. After a stall, I loosened the fuel cap to determine if I could hear any hissing from a vacuum. No such sound. Thanks for the suggestion.

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    How old is your x758? You mentioned it has 150 hours. Is it still within the 4 year/700 hour warranty?

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