John Deere 445 fuel problem
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    John Deere 445 fuel problem

    Good morning Everyone, just joined the site and hoping someone may have experienced the same issue I知 having with my
    JD 445 EFI When I知 mowing on a slope the engine will shut off, but if my fuel tank is more than half full it does fine. I致e
    Also noticed it seems to labor when mowing up an incline. Any suggestions or help will be appreciated. Thanks

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    When's the last time the fuel filters were changed? Could be starving for fuel.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerjohn1 View Post
    Good morning Everyone, just joined the site and hoping someone may have experienced the same issue I知 having with my
    JD 445 EFI When I知 mowing on a slope the engine will shut off, but if my fuel tank is more than half full it does fine. I致e
    Also noticed it seems to labor when mowing up an incline. Any suggestions or help will be appreciated. Thanks
    Classic sign of the fuel pump in the fuel tank failing.....

    Fairly easy fix.

    So, if you are going up an incline, the tractor will lose power or stop but going down, it's Ok?

    Yep, its the fuel pump....
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    445 Fue problem

    Thanks guys , I replaced the in line filter where is the best place to get the fuel pump?
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    The fuel pump is in the tank and it's number 18 in this illustration.

    Make sure to replace the fuel pick up screen at the same time, which is shown as #17 and it often comes with the new fuel pump, take a look in the box or ask the parts person. Otherwise, it's part numberAM117116. When the illustration shows a box around the item, like it does with the pump and the pick up filter, generally that indicates they are part of a kit.

    It's very important once you remove the seat and the operator platform to mark the orientation of the fuel guage sending unit in the tank. Take a black marker and draw a line on the sending unit top itself, which is item #1 in the illustration. Otherwise, when you put the unit back in the tank, the sending unit might not work.

    I will post a step by step for you on how to fix this in the next thread,

    By the way, the fuel pump you need is part number AM117108 and you also need to get L2301CU which is the large O ring shown as number 21 in the illustration. The old O ring is going to likely be flat or otherwise damaged when you take this apart.

    If it were mine, I would replace the in line fuel filter now as well, which is shown as item number 14 and it's part number is AM117584
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerjohn1 View Post
    Thanks guys , I replaced the in line filter where is the best place to get the fuel pump?
    John Deere......It's got to be right. Plus, you will likely only do this once in your lifetime, so use good parts.....

    DO you know how to get the operator platform off and how to get to the fuel tank? If not, I can list the steps...........

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    John Deere......It's got to be right. Plus, you will likely only do this once in your lifetime, so use good parts.....

    DO you know how to get the operator platform off and how to get to the fuel tank? If not, I can list the steps...........
    Make sure to check the fuse isn't blown under the dash. Remove the side panels and check all of the fuses right near the base of the steering wheel to make sure it's not just a blown fuse. Usually, the pump goes bad, but it's best to check the fuses as well.

    Blow the fuse panel out with compressed air and then test each fuse. When in doubt, simply replace each fuse with same AMP fuse, they are the normal automotive blade fuses, not the mini blade fuses.

    If you do pull any fuses to even check them, make sure to spray the fuse connection with electrical contact cleaner before installing the new or reinstalling the old fuse. This area on the tractor gets covered with dirt and dust from the radiator fan pulling the air through the dash screen and the rear of the side panels...

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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    When you get on your tractor and turn the key to the ON position, you should hear the fuel pump humming in the tank. If you don't, it's the pump which is likely needing to be replaced. As I also mentioned, check the fuse.......

    Also, when you are sitting on the tractor with the key in the ON position, (tractor not started) you should be able to feel the pump running if you place your hand flat on the operator platform next to the seat, where the handles are mounted. Just in case you can't hear the pump, try the feel test for it's operation as well.

    I am 98% certain that your fuel pump and tank fuel pick up screen will solve this issue. ALSO,carefully check the condition of the hoses in the tank as the rubber hose for the fuel return line may be starting to rot from age. Check it carefully.

    Make sure to get all of the debris removed from under the operator platform before you removed the fuel tank sending unit as you don't want any of that crud in the tank.....Use a leaf blower and then even rinse the area down. I have seen some with a LOT of old grass, dirt and its the leading place for mice to make homes......

    While you are under the operator platform if there are any signs of mice nests or other rodents spending time under the operator platform, make sure to carefully check the wires which power the pump. I have seen mice chew the wires and cause the pump to not work......

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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    445 fuel problem

    You guys have been a tremendous help. I値l check everything you all have mentioned and start shopping for a fuel pump
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerjohn1 View Post
    You guys have been a tremendous help. I値l check everything you all have mentioned and start shopping for a fuel pump
    Please make sure to post a follow up to let us know if this turned out to be your problem, as this helps make these treads more valuable when readers know the outcome and whether our advice was correct.

    As you are ready to take this apart, use your cell phone to take pictures so you have evidence of how things go back together. It can be very helpful in some instances. Regarding removing the fender deck platform to get to your fuel tank, here is how to do it.

    1. There are two bolts under the foot platform where the fender deck mounts to the foot well, where your feet rest. These are accessed under the platform, there are two on each side, very easy to remove. Remove the nuts and bolts to make removing the fender deck easier.

    2. If you have help or decent upper body strength, you can remove the fender deck platform with the seat assembly attached lifting it with the handles in top of the fender deck. If you need to remove the seat, unbolt it at the base of the seat suspension platform and remove the seat and suspension. This will make handling the fender deck easier. I would suggest removing the seat first, then lifting off the fender deck when doing this the first time.

    3. Make sure to unplug the seat safety switch before you remove either the seat and fender deck as one assembly or the seat and suspension as one assembly. Push the wire down though the grommet under the seat, in the fender deck, so the plug isn't torn off the wire when removing the fender deck, especially if you are doing this alone.

    4. Be careful with feeding the seat safety switch wire down through the grommet on the fender deck, Also when reassembling, make sure to feed the wire up through the grommet before putting the fender deck down as it's hard to get the wire out. Make sure it can reach the seat switch and is on the same side of the bracket as it was when disassembled.

    5. There are bolts visible on top of the fender deck platform, which go through the platform and secure it. I think there are two bolts if memory serves me.....remove them. These bolts secure into a threaded flange under the fender deck, so make sure to lubricate this with WD40 when disassembled to make assembly easier.

    6. So, a total of 6 bolts if removing with the seat assembly attached to the Fender Deck or 10 bolts if you remove the 4 seat assembly bolts to lighten the lifting, which I highly recommend.

    7. Make sure to unplug the tail lights on each side before removing the fender deck or you will damage the wires. When it's time to reassemble, make sure the tail light wires are positioned out the rear of the fender deck area so you can reach them to plug them in the tail light housings.

    8. Make sure to really clean the area under the seat when you remove the fender deck. There will be a lot of old grass and debris. As I mentioned, if you see signs of mice, check all the wires carefully as well as the rubber fuel lines. Use a hand held or back pack blower and if still dirty, rinse down with a hose. I have seen a 5 gallon bucket full of grass, debris, and junk come out from under these fender decks. Another advantage of this cleaning is it will improve the air flow to your trans axle likely reducing the temp of your hydraulic fluid, which makes cooling the tractor easier.

    9. Mark the orientation of the fuel sending unit before you remove it. Do this with just a marker and place a line on the sending unit which holds the fuel pump and pick up screen and the tank so you line them back up, Otherwise, the tank float can be installed slightly sideways and the fuel gauge won't work reliably. Again, ask me how I know this.......

    10. Disconnect the fuel lines and I suggest having a bolt you can use to plug the lines the moment you unhook them from the sending unit so they don't get dirt in the fuel lines and so the fuel doesn't leak. Unplug the electrical connector from the sending unit. Do this VERY CAREFULLY as it is something which if damaged, you won't get the pump to work reliably or the fuel gauge to read correctly.

    11. Spray the fuel pump / gauge power wire with electrical contact cleaner and make sure the pins in the plug are not pulled out of the plastic plug. This happens and it can be tough to find when after assembly, nothing works. So be careful with the electrical connectors.

    12. Once you have the sending unit out of the tank, on a work bench or clean surface, remove the clamps holding the fuel pump on the sending unit and also carefully disconnect and reconnect the pump power wire. Now this wire is submersed in gasoline so you want to make sure it is securely connected and the spade connector secure to the new pump assembly. Don't break the wire or bend or weaken the spade electrical connector.

    13. If any of the gas hose clamps are bent, damaged or not tight, replace them with the proper clamps for the job. Don't skimp here as I have seen the new pumps fall off the sending unit into the bottom of the tank because of weak worn hose clamps.

    14. Make sure to clean the pick up tube on the sending unit since you have it out of the tractor. Once the pump and pick up screen are removed, I would blow a slow and easy volume of compressed air through the tubes and you might get some gunk out of them from the Ethanol blended fuel. You can do this with a can of carb cleaner or brake cleaner if you don't have compressed air. Once it is clean for sure, install the new pump and pick up screen and new little connection hoses which come with the new pump. DO NOT USE THE OLD SMALL HOSES OR OLD CLAMPS inside the tank. New ones are in the kit, use them.

    15. It's worth mentioning at this time that you can do this job with a full tank or a nearly empty tank or anywhere in between. But I would encourage you to take a good battery flashlight and look into the tank through the hole where the sending unit was removed as well as where your fuel cap filler neck is on the tank, and make sure there is no crud or debris in the tank. If there is, you may want to remove the tank and clean it. When in doubt, suck it out.....dirt that is.

    16. Note, the only thing which holds the tank in place is the weight and position of the fender deck. So you can actually lift the fuel tank right off the tractor frame once the fender deck is removed and the fuel lines and electrical connections are disconnected. Since you are this far into this, take a few moments and make sure the tank is clean. It's a smart thing to do since you are already there.

    17. It's very important to remove the large O-ring which is at the very top of the sending unit and replace it with the O ring I listed in the parts list. If you use the old O ring, it will likely leak and splash fuel out, which is dangerous, wasteful and requires a disassembly, Plus it can allow dirt into the tank which you do not want. Spend a couple of bucks and get the part number for your machine. Don't just replace it with any old O ring as it must be resilient against the effects of gasoline. Use the right part and save yourself a headache. ALSO MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE OLD RING BEFORE INSTALLING THE NEW O RING AS YOU DON'T WANT BOTH O- RINGS ON THE RETENTION RING, IT WILL LEAK FOR SURE.

    18. Secure the sending unit with the new O ring based upon the marks you made locating it prior to removal. Secure the top tank sending unit retention ring hand tight. Don't get nuts with a strap wrench as the new O ring will provide the seal. Connect the electrical connections, re attach the fuel carb supply line and return lines (they should be slightly different in size, so don't switch them or the tractor won't run.)

    19. Make sure everything is tight and back in place. Once ready, have someone fish the seat switch safety wire up through the platform grommet and then move the fender deck into position. Set the fender deck into place and connect the seat switch wire.. Then, before you install or tighten or go any further (seat is back in place) make sure to turn the ignition key on to make sure the pump runs and you can hear it. Also check for any fuel leaks. If the pump runs which it should, and there are no fuel leaks, which there should NOT be, then you can start the tractor.

    Once it starts, let it run for a minute of two and shut it down. Hang onto the fender deck when the tractor is running so it doesn't slide around on the tank or frame. Install all of the bolts loose first and once all aligned and in place, then Tighten all the bolts and plug in the tail light wires. Don't get nuts tightening the bolts, just tighten them "normally". But make sure they are all in place before tightening or you will struggle to get them all in place.

    If you happen to use your tractor for snow removal, you might want to replace the bolts with stainless bolts and nuts where the foot well attaches to the fender deck. This will make taking it apart in the future much, much easier.......I recommend doing this with all of the fender deck and foot well hardware. It makes putting it together easier and should you need to take t apart in the future, its also much easier.

    20. Then you should be done. Except for posting your follow up to GTT. Please do so we know you were successful.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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