L110 Wiring:
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    L110 Wiring:

    Can someone post the pin out of a L110 Ignition switch with wire color and what they go to? Picked up a L110 with blown motor from an uncle mainly to fix for my daughter and when I say blown I mean blown. Rod broken in 3 places, cam shaft broken from gear then broke into in 3 places, also both push rods bent, small piece broken out of cylinder so I have a Briggs 540 cc engine with only 40 hours on it I planned on installing. The phrase bolts right in is right but that is where it stops. Making a long story short unkie is one of those who doesn't get his hands dirty so dealer does everything in up keep but he cleans and polishes his tools like they are show machines. When it come to wiring things aren't going so well. The motor to frame pin out is different for Briggs and Kohler so some wires need moving to different locations. I can't seem to get these matched up right because the wiring diagram does not match what is actually on the mower itself. The key switch terminals are not marked and where some wires are connected doesn't match up. IE: the kill wire is hooked where the diagram shows to be battery and the headlights don't work at all. Unkie does not remember the key switch ever being changed and if so it would be done by the dealer. I don't believe this switch to be a John Deere however looks the same when sitting in the mower seat. Oh! the 19 hp Briggs came off a D110 if that helps. The D110 sort of got crushed by a falling tree limb by someone who had no business owning a chainsaw.

    Trying to keep from blowing the electrical system on a good engine.
    Thanks

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    L110 wiring:

    Thanks for the reply. That is the same pin out as the switch I have but apparently not the same brand which makes no difference. The switch is pattened by Delta and made by several others which I assume is under some sort of contract. This same switch is used on many brands of mowers. However the terminal marked L which should be the lights according to the diagram, but it is sure not where the lead to the lights is wired. The wire just above the power or battery terminal (I think A1) is where my lights are powered. (That terminal does not work) so again assuming the switch is bad and have ordered another one, but I think I should move that wire up to the L terminal where it should be. My only question is how it got there in the first place I know my uncle did not move it so did it come from JD that way or was it moved by someone at the dealer. One thing I did notice is the lights ground wire was fried for about 10 inches up at the front connection point. Maybe the dealer moved it to avoid replacing the switch but then he should have at least also replaced the ground wire. Just fuming because I have spent 2 days trying to straighten out this wiring. Now I just need to trace out these bleached out wiring colors. For a mower that has set inside every day of its life you would not think the wiring colors would bleach out.

    Again thanks.

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    L110 wiring:

    Mechanic, from what I read on the diagram the A1 and A2 both should be a switched hot terminals however only A1 is hot at any position on the switch. Therefore I have no lights. I will need two switched positions one for lights and one for the fuel solenoid. I am assuming the switch is bad. I am told not to run the fuel solenoid off the wire running the lights because a surge of any kind could drop the voltage enough to shut the fuel off . Am I right in thinking that A2 should also be hot?
    Last edited by Sparky717; 07-02-2018 at 10:43 PM.

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    A2 should be hot only with the key in the 1st position, run with lights. Confirm you have power at L with the engine running, that is what supplies power to the switch for the headlights.

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    L110 Wiring

    Thanks for the reply. You might have just explained my problem and as soon as I get back home I will check it out. WITHOUT the engine running but with the switch turned to 1st position for engine and lights I have no power at L and no lights. I do have the brakes in locked position which should block out the safety switches and I have a hot wire from battery to the switch thru the engine to frame main connector. I just assumed it supplied voltage to the L position when the key was turned to 1st position.

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    L110 wiring:

    Well I tried your suggestion and still does not work. Running or not the lights do not work so I installed a new ignition switch and same old problem. Somehow I am just not getting voltage at the L post nor A2. I am now back where I started.

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    Zebrafive's Avatar
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    Looking at the wiring diagram, L should be hot at all times.

    Postive goes from battery to Fuse F1. Two wires come off the other side of Fuse F1. One goes to key switch B. The other goes to the regulator for the stator, then (at a splice) doubles back to key switch L. So you need to trace the wire from L backwards and see it it goes back to battery, first a splice going to the regulator, then back to the fuse, then to the battery. Running or not you should have power at L.

    Key in position 1 connects L to A2 and lights are connected to A2 then have ground.
    J
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    L110 Wiring

    Zebrafive thanks for your reply. I have double checked my wiring and it is exact as you explained but it does not work. Now let me explain what I have done. I swapped the original engine from a Kohler to a Briggs. Two wires did not match up in their position in the wiring harness one being the Red wire from the stator and the ground wire. I swapped those so they match up. Now I don't seem to have lights at any position using the key switch. I have removed the switch and checked for continuity between the battery post and the L post also the A1 and can't get anything on any key position. I reconnected the key switch and checked for voltage from the back side of the connector. Nothing at L nor A1. I assumed it was the key switch so I replaced it with a new one still no continuity with only the switch nor when I replace the connection and check for voltage. With everything connected the engine runs fine and the stator shows to be charging. The 20 amp fuse I replaced. So am I missing some kind of inline fuse or something? I am down to uncovering all the original connections and maybe making new connections even tho they show continuity. I am just at a loss for what to check. Oh! forgot to say I don't know if the lights worked when I got the mower.

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    Zebrafive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky717 View Post
    Zebrafive thanks for your reply. I have double checked my wiring and it is exact as you explained but it does not work. Now let me explain what I have done. I swapped the original engine from a Kohler to a Briggs. Two wires did not match up in their position in the wiring harness one being the Red wire from the stator and the ground wire. I swapped those so they match up. Now I don't seem to have lights at any position using the key switch. I have removed the switch and checked for continuity between the battery post and the L post also the A1 and can't get anything on any key position. I reconnected the key switch and checked for voltage from the back side of the connector. Nothing at L nor A1. I assumed it was the key switch so I replaced it with a new one still no continuity with only the switch nor when I replace the connection and check for voltage. With everything connected the engine runs fine and the stator shows to be charging. The 20 amp fuse I replaced. So am I missing some kind of inline fuse or something? I am down to uncovering all the original connections and maybe making new connections even tho they show continuity. I am just at a loss for what to check. Oh! forgot to say I don't know if the lights worked when I got the mower.
    Key switch positions Off, One , Two, Start. Check with key switch in One for continuity from L to A2.

    If the wiring is as I described: Battery Positive > Fuse> Regulator for Stator output. At this point you will have a splice. it might be an actual splice or two wires on one side of a connector, connecting to one wire. Three wires will come together. One is the one just described from the Fuse, One is from the Regulator for Stator output, One doubles back to the Key Switch L. So Key Switch L should always be HOT 12 volts.

    From the same Fuse, in above, Battery > Fuse > TWO wires leave the Fuse. One goes to Regulator (see above) The other one goes to Key Switch B. So B will always be HOT 12 volts. If B is HOT, but not L, the problem is some where from Fuse > Regulator > L. If you have 12 volts at B, the fuse is good. Same Fuse should power B

    You could just put a jumper from B to L on the Key Switch. It will do the same thing.

    I would test the lights. Connector will have two wires, run 12 volts to one, ground the other. It does not matter which you pick for 12 volts and ground, but ground wire should be black.
    Last edited by Zebrafive; 07-04-2018 at 10:29 AM.
    J
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