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    8300Deere's Avatar
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    Yanmar Diesel Hours

    Just wondering how people like the Yanmar diesels? Looking at buying a x495 or x595 or a tidy 455 If I can find one. The x595 has 1600 hours. Do you guys think this is to much? how many hours do you think that it would last? It has been used by a lawnmowing company since 2006 and has been serviced by the dealer since new so I know services have been done correctly. It has a ripped seat and broken tail lights but thats only cosmetic.

    Thanks
    John Deere L110 - Bought new late 2005 currently 380 Hours
    *Currently looking for replacement for 2016 season*

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    arlen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8300Deere View Post
    Just wondering how people like the Yanmar diesels? Looking at buying a x495 or x595 or a tidy 455 If I can find one. The x595 has 1600 hours. Do you guys think this is to much? how many hours do you think that it would last? It has been used by a lawnmowing company since 2006 and has been serviced by the dealer since new so I know services have been done correctly. It has a ripped seat and broken tail lights but thats only cosmetic.

    Thanks
    I've got 1200 hours on my X748, which is basically the same as a x595. It still runs the same as it did new. According to the service manager at my dealer they should go 3-4 thousand hours.
    The Yanmar diesel has a fine reputation.
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    X748SE 24hp, 647 Tiller, 54" front blade, 47 Snow Blower, 62C deck, JD disk

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    Chuckv's Avatar
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    I had over 2400 hours on my 2004 x495 when I sold it because I moved off that acreage. It always started and ran just as it was intended. It had over 2200 hours when I bought it from a local cemetery, and it too was maintained by the Deere dealer so I had no fear about its treatment during those rather high hours. These are great motors...should go as much as 5,000 hours if you keep the induction air clean.

    Also, the "vintage" Deere garden tractor that I still have is a 1992 model year 322 which is a gas Yanmar power plant quite similar to the diesel in the 332 versions of similar vintage. Yanmar parts through Deere are a bit expensive, but correct maintenance means you don't many engine parts very often -- just air filters, fuel filters and oil filters.

    Chuck
    Last edited by Chuckv; 01-26-2015 at 08:12 PM.
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    Chuckv's Avatar
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    By the way, my x495 also had a very worn/torn seat and bad tail lights with I bought mine. GreenFarmParts.com had what I needed at reasonable prices...getting the duct tape glue residue off was the hard part (used WD-40...)

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    The seat hinge is subject to wear at high hours on these tractors, and only one-half of the hinge comes with the new seat. Here is my "hardware store" fix for that other half that is integral to the suspension mechanism that was otherwise in decent shape:
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    It won't wear out now!! Here is a view of the finished seat, and the seat bracket wear on the seat half (which was replaced with what came with the new seat assembly from GFP)
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    Used x495 and x595 tractors can be real bargains if you know they are well maintained as to the internal engine components -- don't be afraid of some cosmetics (and tires of course...) This 2004 X495 only cost me $1800 when I picked it up from the cemetery...and it had the 3-pt and the 62 inch mulching deck. I added the Al Z load-lifter and some pallet forks.

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    Chuck

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    Hiya,

    I wouldn't worry about the hours, 4000+ is what the Deere wrenches say. Other than the radiators plugging and allowing the engine to overheat and pop a head the only things I have noted over 2000 hours is seals, glow plugs/preheat circuit and injectors. Those aren't anything that should make you shy away from them, I would be more concerned with the hydrostatic transaxle pump and PTO system condition. I would see if you can get a pressure test and a oil analysis of the hydraulic system to make sure it's up to snuff.

    I would also check the gearbox on the mower deck, they don't get a lot of attention for fluid changes.

    Tom

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    Chuckv's Avatar
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    The gearbox on these mowers is rubber isolation mounted and those rubber parts can wear completely through. Here is what mine looked like when I got it -- remember it was used in a marble orchard and likely was fetched up against hard items quite a lot...there was added heavy plate welded on the mower deck edge as you may be able to see in the above images. Below are the rebuild documentation pictures.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Those little steel lined bushings are quite expensive from Deere so I found a source that required me to buy a quantity, but were really worth doing that way. If anyone wants to replace their bushings on the gearbox, I can send 4 bushings post paid for $25 (I have three or four sets left...) which is about what one costs from Deere.

    Chuck
    Last edited by Chuckv; 01-26-2015 at 09:40 PM.
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    arlen's Avatar
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    I might take you up on that. I changed mine out at around 800 hours, and they were pretty shot. Do you have a solution for the deck wheel spindles? I thought it would be nice to modify them with a lathe so you don't have to replace the whole drilled rod.
    Last edited by arlen; 01-26-2015 at 09:54 PM.
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    JD 320D Skid Loader
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    X748SE 24hp, 647 Tiller, 54" front blade, 47 Snow Blower, 62C deck, JD disk

    JD 997 Zero Turn

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    2 miniature donkeys, 1/8 hp (each)

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    Chuckv's Avatar
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    Arlen,

    PM me an email address and we can discuss the bushings and how to ship.

    Those anti-scalp wheel spindle assemblies come in two versions -- metric and inch. Later decks have the metric hardware, and my tractor was an early 2004 that is supposed to be inch size. The cemetery also had a later tractor in the same model and they at one time replaces all the wheels and mounts with the later metric versions (probably by mistake...) You can see in the images that the undersized metric ones wore oddly because they rattled in the mating tube. They also had metric clevis pin holes so they could not be set at 90 degrees to help roll the deck out from under the tractor. The cemetery crew drilled one clevis hole out enough to set the wheel height.

    I fixed all that during my deck "tuneup" which also replaced the front hanger stirrups and the hex section blade drive belt -- damn that belt is expensive! If you keep the wheels themselves lubed you should not wear out the wheel axle at 800 hours...

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    Some of this wear may be a bit difficult to see in the images above.

    Chuck
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    8300Deere's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the replies, When my L110 sells I will proceed further into seeing if its possible to get a hydraulic pressure test. The sales man rung me yesterday and said it was used commercially, and has been traded in on a new model. It has been run through the workshop and had a new mower deck belt, Had gearbox work on the mower, replaced worn anti scalping wheels, new blades and repaired brackets for the anti scalping wheels. I know the yanmar is a good engine but am worried about the hours, are these high hours? 1644.5 Hours. Salesman said that because of the condition cosmetically I should be able to get the price down a bit if I offer them cash, its listed at $9,755 and is trying to push it down to $7,250 to much?

    I only mow around 1.5 acers of grass but it takes around 3 hours to do on my L110, the main reason for looking at a x400,500,700 is the suspension seat... I my L110 is very uncomfterble to mow on for 3 hours strait as the seat is shot and only has springs...

    Heres some pictures that the dealer has, its a 2006 with 1644.7 hours, 54 inch deck (48 is hardly an upgrade from 42 and 62 is way to big for my needs) and it has been fully checked by there workshop.
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    It also looks like it had a loader fitted at some point, should I be worried about this?
    John Deere L110 - Bought new late 2005 currently 380 Hours
    *Currently looking for replacement for 2016 season*

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    8300Deere's Avatar
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    John Deere L110 - Bought new late 2005 currently 380 Hours
    *Currently looking for replacement for 2016 season*

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