X595 Front differential bushing
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Thread: X595 Front differential bushing

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    Randog's Avatar
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    X595 Front differential bushing

    While poking around on the new tractor, I leaned my ankle against the front tire tread. I felt a klunk. Appeared to be some play in the front bushing. So I dropped the differential down to see what was worn. Two things went wrong. Only greased once, possibly when it was new, and somehow the weight of the tractor was resting on the bolt and pivoting. I am guessing the bolt was not tight enough to hold the long bushing between the frame members. The clearance is so tight you can barely force grease out between the long bushing and the two short bushings in the differential housing. I filled the cavity and forced grease between the bushings before lifting it back into the frame. The trick is getting the bushing centered so when you tighten the bolt, there is no contact of the bolt and long bushing. This forces the weight to be carried by the bushings. I think I got it.

    Bolt and long bushing



    Completed differential

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180722_101335.jpg   20180722_101031.jpg  
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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randog View Post
    While poking around on the new tractor, I leaned my ankle against the front tire tread. I felt a klunk. Appeared to be some play in the front bushing. So I dropped the differential down to see what was worn. Two things went wrong. Only greased once, possibly when it was new, and somehow the weight of the tractor was resting on the bolt and pivoting. I am guessing the bolt was not tight enough to hold the long bushing between the frame members. The clearance is so tight you can barely force grease out between the long bushing and the two short bushings in the differential housing. I filled the cavity and forced grease between the bushings before lifting it back into the frame. The trick is getting the bushing centered so when you tighten the bolt, there is no contact of the bolt and long bushing. This forces the weight to be carried by the bushings. I think I got it.

    Bolt and long bushing



    Completed differential


    On all of these "large garden tractors", that front axle pivot is important to keep greased and "checked" as it is under constant stress with the weight of the tractor sitting on it and the side to side pivoting which occurs nearly continuously as you mow or drive on any uneven surface. The way the grease zirk is on the right side of the pivot point housing, its only visible when you get right down there and look for it. I think that's why it is so often over looked.

    You can replace the bushings on each end of the long bushing, which you have shown in your photo with the retention bolt. On tractors with high hours, Since these are often "over looked" when greasing tractors, these bushings will be worn and cause the front axle to feel "loose". Here are the part numbers for the various pieces of that pivot joint.

    (in the illustration below from the parts manual)

    Here is the link to the front axle illustration which shows these parts and numbers John Deere - Parts Catalog

    #32 - Square Headed Bolt M130571, Qty 1
    #33- Long Bushing M141926, Qty 1
    #2 - Shorter Bushings on each end of pivot housing M810206, Qty 2
    #29 - Washer 24M7051, Qty 1
    #30 - Locknut 14M7410, Qty 1 which is a M20 Locknut


    Also, your tractor has a driveshaft which runs from the rear of the Yanmar to the front of the transmission on the rear trans axle assembly. The driveshaft has a universal joint in it with a grease zirk, shown as #2 which needs to be greased. This is one which is often over looked and rarely greased. You have to get underneath the tractor and the mower deck must be off for you to see the driveshaft.

    It's a good idea to check the driveshaft bolts but make sure to use the correct torque settings as you don't want to over tighten and risk damaging the bolts. I once snapped a driveshaft flange bolt off, shown as number 1 in the illustration below, and it was a HUGE pain in the rear to extract that bolt and replace it. So don't just go after them with an "arm strong" setting, make sure to check the torque settings in the Technical Service Manual.............

    I was surprised how easily the bolt snapped when I grabbed the wrong torque wrench which I had set for another bolt's torque. I was pulling on the torque wrench and I thought to myself "This sure seems awful tight" and SNAP, off came the head of the bolt. The bolt I broke was a flange headed bolt and it was in a terrible place to use the easy out, drill it out, etc. I think I spent more time repairing the sheared bolt than I did taking the entire rear drive assembly in and out of the tractor.

    The bolts shown as #4 in the illustration are actually on the coupler with the crankshaft on the very rear of the Yanmar. If memory serves me, These bolts have a different torque setting than do the bolts on the other end of the shaft. This shaft has to be removed if the alternator / water pump belt on the Yanmar has to be replaced. This give you a chance to Check your belt carefully when you are under there as it will be giving you a real good look at the crankshaft pulley which drives the belt, alternator, water pump, etc.

    IndianaJim likes this.

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    George of Buford's Avatar
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    The first X595 I bought had never been greased except for the factory. The hour meter did not work, but I do not think it had that many hours. So this is something I will be doing in my spare time. I will plan to make sure the bolt is tight.

    I just shimmed the charge pump. It was at 800 psi so now it is over 1000 psi. The MFWD driveshaft is leaking at the hydro end. So I have the parts ordered. Looks like a fairly simple repair. That is what you can expect with a used machine.

    George of Buford
    Last edited by George of Buford; 07-30-2018 at 02:47 PM.
    IndianaJim likes this.
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    Also, your tractor has a driveshaft which runs from the rear of the Yanmar to the front of the transmission on the rear trans axle assembly. The driveshaft has a universal joint in it with a grease zirk, shown as #2 which needs to be greased. This is one which is often over looked and rarely greased. You have to get underneath the tractor and the mower deck must be off for you to see the driveshaft.

    The universal has TWO (2) grease zirks one on each side

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