D140 Issues...Electrical, PTO Switch, Clutch???
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Thread: D140 Issues...Electrical, PTO Switch, Clutch???

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    D140 Issues...Electrical, PTO Switch, Clutch???

    Hey everyone, new member here, I have a question I'm hoping someone might could help with. Sorry for the length of the post, I tried to be concise but wanted to make sure I didn't leave anything out.

    As the title indicates I have a D140 mower that's 2 years old now. It's never given me any problems, but a few weeks ago while I was mowing the blades suddenly stopped. The PTO switch was still on, so at first I thought the belt had broken. I backed up to turn and head back to a part of the yard that had been mowed to inspect and as I pushed the RIO button and began backing up the blades came back on. I was confused so I started cutting again, but when I let off the RIO switch but blades stopped again.

    This occurred for a few minutes, but the behavior transitioned to this: if I switched on the PTO the blades would not spin. If I pressed the RIO and backed up, the blades still would not spin. If however I kept the RIO switch pressed and then began moving forward, THEN the blades would activate. And the blades would continue mowing unless I released the RIO button, at the point the blades would stop spinning. And the only way to turn them back on would be to switch off the PTO, back up, and move forward again WHILE CONTINUING TO PRESS THE RIO BUTTON.

    Ok, so first I thought maybe there was a sensor down by the pedal that was screwed up. So far I've taken the following steps as temporary steps for testing:

    - I bypassed the RIO switch. My thinking was that if a switch was bad down by the pedal, if I had the RIO activated it would keep the circuit closed regardless a possible issue with a pedal switch or sensor. The bypass did work, as the behavior at first was the same. I could flip the PTO on, then back up, and as I moved forward the blades would engage, so the bypass is working in that regard. The problem is now that after I cut for several minutes the blades will slowly stop turning and I can here the engagement fading. When this happens I can change speeds or start over and turn off the PTO, back up and move forward again to start them back, but it seems like the longer I cut the quicker the blades will turn off. After a few minutes the PTO engagement seems to sputter off and on similarly to the way an engine might act when it is starving for gas.

    - So after this behavior I thought I might eliminate the seat switch as a possibility, so I also bypassed that. Doing so changed nothing, all the behavior is still the same so I guess that wasn't a factor.

    So here I am now, I'm wondering if I should get a new PTO switch, or could it possibly be the electric clutch? I'm not a pro about this stuff so I'm worried if I try to adjust the clutch and that's not the problem I might mess it up. On the other hand could a switch going bad produce the behavior I'm describing, the way it will turn on, then slowly disengage and then suddenly come back on? Or is there something else that this makes anyone think of that maybe I should check. Seriously, any help would be appreciate, I'm on a tight budget and am trying to narrow down what I need to look at without replacing a bunch of stuff. Thanks in advance.

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    bloodrunsgreen's Avatar
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    First to save money is get the tech manual for the D series. Available on line or from the local JD dealership (Not the big box stores). It could be the fuses, the brain, safety switches (Seat, Brake, Neutral), PTO switch, RIO switch or the PTO. Second get a decent VOM (Volt, Ohm Meter). Make sure it has a continuity/diode check capability. Also the TM will help you with diagnostics and what to measure and where to measure. You could be just chasing a set of bad connections. So check and clean the battery connections, all grounds, then pull deck and actually look at the PTO and it's connection (connector).
    Last edited by bloodrunsgreen; 07-24-2018 at 02:13 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bloodrunsgreen View Post
    First to save money is get the tech manual for the D series. Available on line or from the local JD dealership (Not the big box stores). It could be the fuses, the brain, safety switches (Seat, Brake, Neutral), PTO switch, RIO switch or the PTO. Second get a decent VOM (Volt, Ohm Meter). Make sure it has a continuity/diode check capability. Also the TM will help you with diagnostics and what to measure and where to measure. You could be just chasing a set of bad connections. So check and clean the battery connections, all grounds, then pull deck and actually look at the PTO and it's connection (connector).
    Thank you for the advice, I know you're right that I'll be better off in the long run to just get a tech manual. This also makes the second time this year I've needed a vom so it'll be good to go ahead and do that.

    A minor update to my issue is that before I read your reply, I also tried bypassing the brake switch. So at this point I've bypassed RIO, the seat switch, and the brake switch. I was going to crank it and see if that made any difference, as I was closing the hood I noticed the negative battery terminal looked loose and when I jiggled it, it was very loose. I tightened the negative and fired it up. Well something made a difference but I'm not sure if it was the loose battery cable or the brake switch. Now I still have to engage PTO, back up, then drive forward for the blades to engage, BUT...now once the blades engage the PTO isn't going back and forth disengaging and engaging again. So at least that's progress. Or maybe not progress, but it's something.

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    bloodrunsgreen's Avatar
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    Now undo one bypass at a time, then you will have located the problem for sure. I think you will find that it was a loose battery cable. The reason it has to back up, then forward is because you've by-passed the RIO switch.
    Last edited by bloodrunsgreen; 07-24-2018 at 03:34 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bloodrunsgreen View Post
    Now undo one bypass at a time, then you will have located the problem for sure. I think you will find that it was a loose battery cable. The reason it has to back up, then forward is because you've by-passed the RIO switch.
    That makes sense, I will start undoing the bypasses tomorrow. Thanks again for your help.

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    xcopterdoc's Avatar
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    Go down to the plug that connects to the clutch itself. Unplug it. You will see 2 black wires piggy backed in the plug. Check the black wires and see if one is broken at the terminal. Usually when we see things working backwards it is due to a bad ground.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
    firemachine69 likes this.

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