JD 455 Electrical Issue - Low Voltage/Key Switch Board
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Thread: JD 455 Electrical Issue - Low Voltage/Key Switch Board

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    JD 455 Electrical Issue - Low Voltage/Key Switch Board

    Hi guys,

    New to posting but have used this board many times to fix issues with my 1999 JD 455.

    I'm currently diagnosing an electrical issues that seems to be related to my key switch and board, but could be something else as well.

    Tractor ran normal then seemingly out of nowhere when trying to start, dash lights come on, go off, then dead. Turn key off, then back on, nothing, no dash lights, nothing.

    Replaced key switch and board with correct module for my later model year, problem solved. After about 4 cuts, same thing, when trying to start, dash lights on as normal, solenoid fires as normal, then at some point before firing up it dies.

    Replaced key switch and board again, fires right up. About 4 cuts later...yep, you guessed it, died again...and that's where I stand today.

    Now, I did some more digging using my tech manual and found that my battery is good (12.8V) and good power all the way through the key switch board (control/fuse module) to terminals 2 and 6 without the next wiring harness attached (i.e., fuses good, key switch good). But when I connect the power connector harness to the control/fuse module (X1) the voltage across the system drops way down to about 3.8-4.0V then slowly climbs to about 6V after minutes of sitting there. My dash lights glow dim and a bit brighter but obviously not enough voltage to do start the tractor.

    Anyway, could this be a short in the wires after the key switch board? A blown board (again?) or what?

    Any help is much appreciated!

    Thanks,
    Brian

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    Sounds like a bad connection at the battery or starter. Could also be a bad ground.

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    bthoffman (10-07-2018)

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    Connections at battery and starter are good. Would a bad ground cause the drop in voltage? Is there a way to check for a bad ground? Thanks!!

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    Fozsey's Avatar
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    Pay close attention to the cable ends, not just the connections. Mine looked fine but were corroded inside the cables. It acted exactly the same. Also follow the wires from the starter to the board and dash and make sure all connections are good and not corroded.


    ~Brian~

    1998 425/54 Deck/650 hours | 1998 455/60 Deck/54 Blade/1300 hours | 2003 GX345 48 Deck/47 Blade/Electric Pivot/900 hours (sold)


    Yes I have an addiction and no I don't want help


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    bthoffman (10-07-2018)

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    Where and how are you checking voltage?

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    bthoffman (10-07-2018)

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    Thanks! I'll give the wires and connectors a good look over and hopefully find the smoking gun.

    I'm checking voltage with my Fluke Multimeter set on DC with the JD 455 key switch on and the park brake engaged. My red cable goes to the test point and the black on the grounding point at the motor mount. I get a solid read of 12.8V at the battery, the starter, the key switch power connector, and terminals 2 and 6 of the control/fuse module of the key switch board. Not until I connect the power connector wire bunch to the key switch board (the wires going to the seat switch, brake switch, rectifier/regulator, dash, and then on from there) do I get the lower (~4.3V) reading.

    Thinking that I need to isolate each wire coming out of that power connector wire bunch to see which causes the voltage to drop when connected then repair from there? Not sure yet how I'll do that but I'll figure something out.

    Also, I can't seem to figure out why changing the key switch board seems to solve the problem for the short term?

    Either way, thank you to everyone for your continued comments, I enjoy learning from your experiences.
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    With everything connected when you are getting your ~4.3v reading go back and check battery voltage with both leads on the battery posts. If you still have ~12.8v move the red lead to the starter, check voltage there, then to the X1 connector to the key switch and check voltage there. If at any of those points your voltage drops from 12.8 to 4.3 you will know where your problem is at.

    There is a fusible link between the post on the starter and the X1 connector that has a splice to connect the Red/Black that feeds the C terminal on the X13 connector on the A1 Diesel Module. You could also check voltage at that connector.

    I assume that your tractor is a 1999 model or newer (SN 70001-). Is this correct?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bthoffman View Post
    Thanks! I'll give the wires and connectors a good look over and hopefully find the smoking gun.

    I'm checking voltage with my Fluke Multimeter set on DC with the JD 455 key switch on and the park brake engaged. My red cable goes to the test point and the black on the grounding point at the motor mount. I get a solid read of 12.8V at the battery, the starter, the key switch power connector, and terminals 2 and 6 of the control/fuse module of the key switch board. Not until I connect the power connector wire bunch to the key switch board (the wires going to the seat switch, brake switch, rectifier/regulator, dash, and then on from there) do I get the lower (~4.3V) reading.

    Thinking that I need to isolate each wire coming out of that power connector wire bunch to see which causes the voltage to drop when connected then repair from there? Not sure yet how I'll do that but I'll figure something out.

    Also, I can't seem to figure out why changing the key switch board seems to solve the problem for the short term?

    Either way, thank you to everyone for your continued comments, I enjoy learning from your experiences.
    OK, when you connect the "wire bunch" to the key switch board, do you still have 12.8 VDC at the battery and at the starter?
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    Good stuff. I know that once I get the lower voltage reading, I also get the same (lower) voltage read at the starter (I did check that) but I did not check it at the battery terminals. I will check that as well as your other suggestions. Unfortunately, the tractor is at a location other than my house so my time to diagnose and fix things is limited. I'll probably be out there again tomorrow but at least I have a plan of attack thanks to the suggestions here!

    Yes, it is a newer model 455 (and I really do love the machine!).

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    Quote Originally Posted by bthoffman View Post
    Good stuff. I know that once I get the lower voltage reading, I also get the same (lower) voltage read at the starter (I did check that) but I did not check it at the battery terminals. I will check that as well as your other suggestions. Unfortunately, the tractor is at a location other than my house so my time to diagnose and fix things is limited. I'll probably be out there again tomorrow but at least I have a plan of attack thanks to the suggestions here!

    Yes, it is a newer model 455 (and I really do love the machine!).
    If you are seeing the lower voltage at the starter, it is most likely you will also see the lower voltage at the battery.

    If you also see the lower voltage at the battery, then you problem is either the battery terminal connections are corroded or the battery is bad.

    It is very possible, and highly likely, for a battery to check good when not loaded and when a load is applied, the voltage will dive.

    Connect your voltmeter to the battery terminals, check the voltage; then turn on the lights and check the voltage.
    BigJim55 likes this.
    JD 1025 TLB (2013) ** 60D 7 Iron MMM w/auto-connect ** H120 FEL** 260 BH ** 54" snowblower ** 54" blade ** 52" Front Broom ** Ken's Bolt on Hooks ** Frontier BB2048L box scraper ** County Line 5' landscape rake ** JD Hydraulic Dump MCS ** Artillian Forks w/36" Forks ** JD 3 - Point Ballast Box ** JD I-Match Quick Hitch ** Heavy Hitch front Weight Bar ** Heavy Hitch 3 Point Weight Bar ** Fimco 40 Gallon Sprayer ** EA Aerator ** FitRite Hydraulics Rear SCV ** 12 - 40# suitcase weights

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