Just got a new 590...have a few questions
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    Just got a new 590...have a few questions

    Hi,

    Just got my new 590 but haven't used it yet (except for about a minute's worth of mowing while the delivery guy was here yet). He told me that I was missing sections by going too fast. Didn't expect that. With my old Cub I could always zip along pretty good and it never seemed to lack for cutting. So I guess with these machines one needs to go a bit slower?

    I read through the manual and see the suggestion to use JD oil. Certainly I'd think JD transmission oil is a necessity (would hate to take the chance that the IH hy-tran fluid I use on my Cub 129 would be ok for the Deere), but since the manual mentions that SAE 30 is ok, that's what I've always used with the Cub.

    I was surprised to see how much has to come off (voltage regulator and fuel pump) in order to access the cooling fins and fan area..but certainly worth it to keep the areas clean. I'm so used to the intake fan being vertical on the Cub and is super easy to access and clean.

    Another issue...how many use the wash port? I asked the delivery guy about possible rust issues from shooting so much water under there each time (as suggested) with the blades running. Good idea or not? I've always just reached under my deck and hand-removed as much clippings as I can. Does the washing do a pretty decent job?

    Finally, any suggestions for a total "newbie" would be greatly appreciated! I had the dealer install the mulching kit and the guy gave me an extra set of blades..assuming these are regular rather than mulching blades (?) Can't recall exactly what he said about them.


    Regards,
    Keith
    Last edited by three4rd; 10-30-2018 at 01:15 PM.
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    Congrats on the new tractor. The 590 is a nice ride.

    First things I would do would be to check the hydro fluid and check the tire air pressure. The tires are likely high and the hydro fluid might be low if you had any optional hydraulic equipment installed by the dealer. The first hour of use can for some air out of the hydraulic system causing the level to drop.

    You should only use John Deere hydro fluid.

    Engine oil should meet the viscosity and API spec for your engine. 30wt is fine but if you plan on any cold weather use a 10W-30 or 15W-40 would be a better choice. A very popular choice of oil for the Kawasaki engines is Shell Rotella. There is nothing wrong with the John deere motor oil though and it is often reasonably priced. Either way stick to what your owners manual tells you to put in the engine.

    The general feeling about the wash port around here is that they are useless and do way more harm than good. I tried to use mine once and all it did was make everything wet. It certainly didn't make it clean.

    As for mowing speeds with the full time mulch kit installed depending on grass height and wetness you may need to vary your speed. If the finish cut looks bad slow down a bit. The extra set of blades they gave you would have been the original non-mulching blades that the deck came with.

    I believe there is a removable screen to keep most of the air born debris away form the radiators and fan. It's mounted vertically under the steering wheel. The fan pulls air from the steering wheel and pushes it forward.
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    Quote Originally Posted by CJadamec View Post
    Congrats on the new tractor. The 590 is a nice ride.

    First things I would do would be to check the hydro fluid and check the tire air pressure. The tires are likely high and the hydro fluid might be low if you had any optional hydraulic equipment installed by the dealer. The first hour of use can for some air out of the hydraulic system causing the level to drop.

    You should only use John Deere hydro fluid.

    Engine oil should meet the viscosity and API spec for your engine. 30wt is fine but if you plan on any cold weather use a 10W-30 or 15W-40 would be a better choice. A very popular choice of oil for the Kawasaki engines is Shell Rotella. There is nothing wrong with the John deere motor oil though and it is often reasonably priced. Either way stick to what your owners manual tells you to put in the engine.

    The general feeling about the wash port around here is that they are useless and do way more harm than good. I tried to use mine once and all it did was make everything wet. It certainly didn't make it clean.

    As for mowing speeds with the full time mulch kit installed depending on grass height and wetness you may need to vary your speed. If the finish cut looks bad slow down a bit. The extra set of blades they gave you would have been the original non-mulching blades that the deck came with.

    I believe there is a removable screen to keep most of the air born debris away form the radiators and fan. It's mounted vertically under the steering wheel. The fan pulls air from the steering wheel and pushes it forward.
    Thanks...I'll look into buying some hydro fluid (any suggestions?...looks like you can get the stuff on eBay for around $10 / qt. but much cheaper on the greenpartstore site) and will check the level before mowing. Would you suggest getting a quart or gallon? With my Cub, the trans has leaked for the past 20 years and so I kept at least a gallon on hand at all times.

    Regarding the fan, other than the rotating screen, I don't see any other screens mentioned in the manual, but haven't really spent much time looking under the hood yet. Interesting about the wash port...I wondered exactly what you're referring to, as to how effective it really is. Will be interesting to experiment with it.
    Last edited by three4rd; 10-30-2018 at 03:20 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CJadamec View Post
    I believe there is a removable screen to keep most of the air born debris away form the radiators and fan. It's mounted vertically under the steering wheel. The fan pulls air from the steering wheel and pushes it forward.
    The X590 is air cooled and does not have a radiator or screen or fan (other than the fins on the flywheel).
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Quote Originally Posted by three4rd View Post
    I was surprised to see how much has to come off (voltage regulator and fuel pump) in order to access the cooling fins and fan area..but certainly worth it to keep the areas clean. I'm so used to the intake fan being vertical on the Cub and is super easy to access and clean.
    I wouldn't get too excited just yet about tearing off all the covers to access the cooling fins. I've never cleaned the fins on my engine. I blow my X500 off with a leaf blower after ever mow and I just finished my 5th season with the tractor and the fins on the engine are as clean as when it was new.

    Another issue...how many use the wash port? I asked the delivery guy about possible rust issues from shooting so much water under there each time (as suggested) with the blades running. Good idea or not? I've always just reached under my deck and hand-removed as much clippings as I can. Does the washing do a pretty decent job?
    Don't do it. The wash port is a gimmick at best and just creates a wet mess of grass clippings while introducing water into your spindle bearings so they fail sooner. Scrape the deck out as needed and avoid the use of the wash port.
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    Great advice on the wash port...the concept is a good one but I can't see that all the water would do some of the components any good. Any thoughts on buying the trans oil right from Deere? How much to keep on hand? Right now, from the dealer, I'm at about half-way between fill and add. Better to keep it full?

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    Quote Originally Posted by three4rd View Post
    Great advice on the wash port...the concept is a good one but I can't see that all the water would do some of the components any good. Any thoughts on buying the trans oil right from Deere? How much to keep on hand? Right now, from the dealer, I'm at about half-way between fill and add. Better to keep it full?
    Definitely use ONLY the JD Hy-Gard in the transmission. The X500-series transaxles hold less than 6 quart so it doesn't take a lot. I've always kept my X500 reservoir tank right at the full mark but be aware that the amount of fluid required to go from ADD to FULL is just a few ounces. According to the manual you can use regular Hy-Gard or Lo-Viscosity Hy-Gard depending on the ambient temperature in your area. I'm in the north east so I use Lo-Vis Hy-Gard.

    I keep enough fluid on hand to do a transmission service. You will want to change the transmission oil and filter initially at 50 hrs. and then every 200 hours after that.

    Also... be aware that in recent versions of the owner's manual JD has removed the initial 8 hr. engine oil/filter change. WHY they did this dumb move is beyond me. Earlier manuals still has it in there. Look at it this way, the Kawasaki service manual still lists the 8 hr. break-in oil change as being required. Seems pretty simple, eh? ;-) My advice to you is to go ahead and do an engine oil/filter at 8 hrs. and then whatever interval you feel comfortable with after that. The manual says 100 hrs. but that's a bit long for me. I change my X500 engine oil/filter every 25 hours which amounts to twice a year - not excessive in my book.
    Last edited by jgayman; 10-30-2018 at 04:23 PM.
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    This question probably professes a great deal of ignorance, but....what is the function of the wheels on the deck (outside of making it easier to roll the deck out from under the tractor)? I'm a bit confused. The manual says the deck will follow the contours of the ground (so is this what is commonly referred to as a "floating deck"?) and yet, on another page talks about how the wheels should not be in contact with the ground thereby supporting the weight of the deck. Right now the wheels are not all at the same distance from the floor, so I suppose this should be adjusted before I mow for the first time? I've never had any mower with a deck that had wheels, let alone any sort of leveling devices or hydraulics, so all this is totally new to me. The delivery guy ran through a bunch of stuff rather quickly, and so I've been looking at the manual to read about the leveling procedure.
    Last edited by three4rd; 10-31-2018 at 06:30 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by three4rd View Post
    This question probably professes a great deal of ignorance, but....what is the function of the wheels on the deck? I'm a bit confused. The manual says the deck will follow the contours of the ground (so is this what is commonly referred to as a "floating deck"?) and yet, on another page talks about how the wheels should not be in contact with the ground. Right now the wheels are not all at the same distance from the floor, so I suppose this should be adjusted before I mow for the first time? I've never had any mower with a deck that had wheels, let alone any sort of leveling devices or hydraulics, so all this is totally new to me. The delivery guy ran through a bunch of stuff rather quickly, and so I've been looking at the manual to read about the leveling procedure.
    The X500-series decks are not really floating. They are attached to the underside of the tractor and basically "hang" from it. The purpose of the wheels on the deck is to prevent scalping from your deck bottoming out on uneven surfaces.

    Once your deck is level and set to the preferred cutting height, lower it like you were getting ready to mow. Then set the anti-scalp wheels until they are about 3/4 to 1" above the ground. Most folks use two finger widths as a gauge. Set them all to the same height. You only want the wheels to contact the ground over bumps and lumps. If you set them too low they will spin all the time and wear out prematurely.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    The X500-series decks are not really floating. They are attached to the underside of the tractor and basically "hang" from it. The purpose of the wheels on the deck is to prevent scalping from your deck bottoming out on uneven surfaces.

    Once your deck is level and set to the preferred cutting height, lower it like you were getting ready to mow. Then set the anti-scalp wheels until they are about 3/4 to 1" above the ground. Most folks use two finger widths as a gauge. Set them all to the same height. You only want the wheels to contact the ground over bumps and lumps. If you set them too low they will spin all the time and wear out prematurely.
    Assuming leveling can only be done with the tractor running (so the hydraulics are operating?) 2 of the wheels are currently set to 4 notches down and the other 2 are 5 notches.

    So then the deck on this 590 could be considered to be "parallel linkage" as opposed to floating?
    Last edited by three4rd; 10-31-2018 at 06:37 PM.

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