X495 Starting / charging / fried wire's issue
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Thread: X495 Starting / charging / fried wire's issue

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    X495 Starting / charging / fried wire's issue

    Evening gentlemen,
    My X495 died on me yesterday, and just before a big storm is supposed to hit us this week.
    I was out with it clearing the driveway with the 54" blade, scraping the packed snow. I shut it down while I moved my truck out of the way. Went back to start the x495, dash lights and glow plugs came on like normal, turned the key and everything went dead. No dash lights, nothing, like I unplugged the battery. Checked voltage, was at around 4 volts. So put charger on it on high charge, was climbing slowly, 9-10v. Managed to get it started, voltage was at 10v. Brought the idle up bout half throttle, voltage jumped to 18v. Closed the throttle and shut it down, and got fried wire smell and smoke coming out from under the console/dash. Voltage was back to 4v. Unplugged the alternator and put charger back on to get it started and back in the garage. Once in the garage, disconnected the battery and pulled out the fireball wisky!
    This morning, battery is back to 12+v, without charger. Looked around for a fried wire but havent seen any yet. From my searches on the forum, a short somewhere. Never had this issue before, batt is fairly new, (2yrs) I also just did the service on it and got it set up to plow and blow snow, and did the rust treatment for the frame rails and underneath. Im guessing that something shorted out with the rust proofing spray. Can anyone shed some light on this dilemma, point me in a possible direction to search. I tried touching the battery cable to the post, no spark or pop, no drain/short right now.
    Thx in advance!

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    Connected the battery tonight and attached a volt meter. 12.5v. When I turned the key on, voltage drops to 3-4 volts with a low buzzing coming from the preheat relay. Still no smoked/melted wires that I could find.

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    TJR345's Avatar
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    Check the wire harness that goes over the back of the engine from one side to the other.I had 2 wires that rubbed through and was shorting out on the block on my X595.
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenMachineX495 View Post
    Connected the battery tonight and attached a volt meter. 12.5v. When I turned the key on, voltage drops to 3-4 volts with a low buzzing coming from the preheat relay. Still no smoked/melted wires that I could find.
    Seems you have a bad battery. One or more shorted/dead cells. This will cause the voltage regulator to go crazy and overcharge. You may be needing a new regulator and battery. Likely the smell came from the voltage regulator or its' wires.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenMachineX495 View Post
    Connected the battery tonight and attached a volt meter. 12.5v. When I turned the key on, voltage drops to 3-4 volts with a low buzzing coming from the preheat relay. Still no smoked/melted wires that I could find.
    The fact that the voltage drops immediately when the key is turned to the start position indicates a dead short in that portion of the circuit. A quick test would be to turn on the lights, but not start the engine. If you can keep the lights on for a few minutes check the battery voltage while they are on. The buzzing you hear coming from the relay is caused by the relay to attempting to engage with very low voltage. This does not necessarily mean a bad relay. The VR could be shorted to ground, but I would look there last.

    If you have a charger with a 200 amp start circuit you can also put that on the battery, set the charger to 200 amp start, and try to start the tractor. If it starts and remains running I would first replace the battery and try again.
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    Maybe look at the key switch also

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    Perhaps try brandy next time rather than Fireball? I think it stabilizes the voltage better.
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    Here is an excerpt from the TM2024 that should be of some use...

    X495 electrical op and diag from TM2024.pdf

    Chuck
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    Thank you gentlemen, especially the brandy! lol
    Monday night after I read your suggestions, I went out to play with it. I cant put headlights on without the key on so, hooked up the voltmeter to the battery, 12.5, then tried to jump the starter without the key on, see if it would kick over. Nada zilch! Voltage went to 3volts. So took that one off and connected one of the car batteries I have in the garage. Connected cables and voltmeter. Jumped the starter and she turned over fine. So the moment I was dreading, turned the key, glow plugs on, and start and fired right up. At first the alternator wasnt charging, but then kicked in after 10-15 seconds, 14.50 volts steady at idle and full throttle. No smoke, (wire burning smoke) and still no sign of where the smoke was coming from. Maybe one of the relays.
    I noticed the rubber strap that holds the battery in place wasnt tight, stretched. Im guessing the vibrating and moving battery caused the short in the battery itself. So got some battery hold down j screws to keep the new one from moving!
    That snow storm we got was about 10" of heavy wet snow, the 54" blade made short work of that!!
    Thx again for your help! Glad shes rollin coal again!!
    Last edited by GreenMachineX495; 12-01-2018 at 08:54 PM.
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    The batteries will often test at a "normal voltage" with a volt meter, but the real proof is always the battery load test. This inexpensive piece of equipment will help sort these issues out quickly as it load tests the battery which will show if the battery is compromised. It's one of the handiest things to have in your toolbox.

    Also, it shows the charge rate of the alternator. These are real handy for all 12 volt items and save a lot of time sorting these issues out. Anywhere from $20 to $30 money well spent and well worth the small investment......

    100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester

    Glad you are rolling smoke again.

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