X495 temperature display question
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Thread: X495 temperature display question

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    X495 temperature display question

    I recently picked up an X495. For a while I thought the temp gauge wasn't working at all as it tended to always stayed just into the green without moving. This was when running or not running. I just figured that the meter wasn't working at all and I knew this was a common problem with this tractor.

    Today I ran the mower for a while at about the highest RPM and operating the 62" deck. After a bit of that the temp gauge showed much higher. Still in the green, but not too far from the upper red zone.

    I'm just trying to figure out if this is fairly normal? I want to have some confidence in my temp indicator but these two extremes leave me wondering.

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    bloodrunsgreen's Avatar
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    You did not state year or hours on the machine. Did you change ALL fluids after getting it? If not, I would change your coolant, check your thermostat for operation, make sure the screens are clear on the radiator and blow the radiator fins clear too.
    TJR345 likes this.

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    TJR345's Avatar
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    My x595 normally runs a little in the green at operating temp.If your running close I'd check things out as stated above.
    Tom

    2019 X590 with power mulch control and PF bagger
    30" mechanical tiller
    02 X595 with 62" deck,front thatcher and powerflow PTO kit
    3pt hitch with Heavy Hitch 45 JD loader
    12 JD suitcase weights
    JD/Brinly 3pt plow
    Frontier SS1036 3pt pto spreader
    (2) JS63C walk behind mowers
    TS 105 JD weed wacker
    tow behind 15 gal. sprayer
    Turftime 60" lawn roller
    Turftime 54" 3pt core aerator

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    Thanks guys. So you agree that this seemed to be running too hot. It sure seemed so to me.

    It has just over 600 hours. I did check the screens and the coolant level. I did not change the coolant. I have every reason to believe that it has been serviced appropriately. I'll double check all the airflow & coolant again. Given it's jump from near zero to what seems to be high I'm suspecting the temp gauge operation. I know the instrument cluster has a reputation for acting up.

    Does anyone know what voltages should be seen going to that temp gauge? If I had that I could check the gauge operation out.

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    Chuckv's Avatar
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    There is some information in the attached document starting on page 180...showing the range of resistance of the temp sender:

    The engine coolant temperature sensor is a variable
    resistor, providing a ground circuit path for the temperature
    gauge. As the engine coolant heats, the resistance
    decreases. As the resistance decreases, more current is
    allowed to flow across the engine coolant temperature
    gauge causing the needle to rise and indicate a higher
    temperature. The temperature gauge is part of the
    instrument panel.
    The engine coolant temperature sensor resistance is
    approximately 40 - 700 ohms.

    ...and the nominal voltage at the panel gauge when engine is not running:
    3. B2 Engine CoolantTemperature Switch -- 6.0 to 7.0 volts

    Test B2 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (See Temperature
    Sensor Test).
    If the switch is OK and the P2 Coolant Temperature Gauge
    does not operate correctly, replace instrument panel.

    Here is the section excerpt of the document:
    X495 electrical op and diag from TM2024.pdf

    ...Bummer if you have to replace the dash module...looks really expensive!

    Chuck

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    Excellent info! Thanks. I'll take a look this weekend and report what I find.

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    Ok I seem to have figured this out. First, yes I double checked the coolant level and that the screens were clear. Unlikely that I really had elevated engine temperature.

    I picked up a 1k pot so I could reproduce the 40-700 ohms stated in the tech manual quoted by Chuckv above. I connected power (pin 17) and ground (pin 20) to the connector and the pot between ground and the temp input pin (pin 2). When I adjusted the pot I got movement on the temp gauge but the needle position wasn't always proportional to the pot setting. That seemed to reproduce what i was seeing with the "jumping" gauge while it was in use.

    So I took it all apart. I pulled the instrument cluster open, took 4 screws out and got the PCB out. I inspected it carefully for broken solder joints and that sort of thing, and I noticed that the pins on the back of the two instruments were a bit corroded. After trying a few other things I just cleaned those up with some very fine sandpaper and everything works now. Here are some pics for future reference:

    Here's the PCB where the instrument plugs in...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here's the back side of the instrument. These are the pins I cleaned up to make better contact...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I can't say that I'm highly confident that this fix will last. Some conductive compound may help that.

    NOTE: Don't use dielectric compound/grease or Vaseline on these contacts.

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