Deere X320 Heat Soak Problem - No start when hot.
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Thread: Deere X320 Heat Soak Problem - No start when hot.

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    Deere X320 Heat Soak Problem - No start when hot.

    I have a John Deere X320 with about 400 hours on the clock. The tractor starts up easy cold, and runs strong- until you turn if off. It will not restart when up to temp. Let it cool down for 30 minutes and it starts right up again no problem. I have replaced the coils and the Electronic Control Unit on the recommendation of my local dealer. Still heat soaking. I have shot some starting spray down the intake during this hot "no-start" condition and it won't even bump over.. so my best guess is no spark on a hot restart.. but the thing runs fine when up to temp.. so if its loss of spark due to heat why do I only lose spark on the restart and don't have any issue using the mower for hours? Any ideas? Thanks.

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    bloodrunsgreen's Avatar
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    Have you tried new plugs? When you replaced the coils did it the plug wires?

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    What engine do you have in your X320? When I look it up I don't see an ECU. Tractor data shows it as a Kawasaki FH661V which has a kill wire running to each magneto coil. Assuming that is your engine, I would try disconnecting the kill wires at the magnetos and go from there.

    Note that the engine will continue to run until it starves of fuel when you turn the key off if there is an issue with the kill wires. Briggs twins have a diode in the harness that can fail, I would imagine that the Kawasaki engines to as well.

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    I have the EXACT SAME problem. Following this thread for any updates.

    Quote Originally Posted by APSNOVA View Post
    I have a John Deere X320 with about 400 hours on the clock. The tractor starts up easy cold, and runs strong- until you turn if off. It will not restart when up to temp. Let it cool down for 30 minutes and it starts right up again no problem. I have replaced the coils and the Electronic Control Unit on the recommendation of my local dealer. Still heat soaking. I have shot some starting spray down the intake during this hot "no-start" condition and it won't even bump over.. so my best guess is no spark on a hot restart.. but the thing runs fine when up to temp.. so if its loss of spark due to heat why do I only lose spark on the restart and don't have any issue using the mower for hours? Any ideas? Thanks.

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    bloodrunsgreen's Avatar
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    When it doesn't start, after you crank for awhile, do you get the smell of gas at all? Are the plugs wet from gas? Also it is time to get some spark checkers this will help check off the items to see where it lies.

    The checklist:
    1.) Fuel
    2.) Spark
    3.) Air
    Last edited by bloodrunsgreen; 05-10-2019 at 11:31 AM.

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    I know this might sound dumb, but did you try opening the gas cap and then trying to start? If the vent hole in the gas tank cap is plugged a vacuum forms in the tank while running so if you stop, the line drains back and the pump doesn't provide enough draw to restart. Letting the machine sit for a while the vacuum releases and you get a restart as if it was a heat issue. Just an option to check that many of us have run into.

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    I will give this a try the next time it does it, thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by fordgt40 View Post
    I know this might sound dumb, but did you try opening the gas cap and then trying to start? If the vent hole in the gas tank cap is plugged a vacuum forms in the tank while running so if you stop, the line drains back and the pump doesn't provide enough draw to restart. Letting the machine sit for a while the vacuum releases and you get a restart as if it was a heat issue. Just an option to check that many of us have run into.

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    Fixed, I think.

    Quote Originally Posted by farming the ridge View Post
    I have the EXACT SAME problem. Following this thread for any updates.
    Seems my ignition coils were out of spec from the magneto. They need to be CLOSE. The adjustment was only 1/32 of an inch or so, probably less. You'll see the holes for the bolts that hold on the ignition coils are oval, allowing for some adjustment. My guess is cold the ignition coils worked fine and they could maintain combustion when hot.. but the excessive gap created a weak spark creating a no-start when up to temp. Hope this helps.
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    Quote Originally Posted by APSNOVA View Post
    Seems my ignition coils were out of spec from the magneto. They need to be CLOSE. The adjustment was only 1/32 of an inch or so, probably less. You'll see the holes for the bolts that hold on the ignition coils are oval, allowing for some adjustment. My guess is cold the ignition coils worked fine and they could maintain combustion when hot.. but the excessive gap created a weak spark creating a no-start when up to temp. Hope this helps.
    On the Kawasaki FS730V in my X500 the ignition coil air gap is to be 0.2 ∼ 0.4 mm (0.008 ∼ 0.016 in.). I used a business card of the proper thickness to set the gap.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    On the Kawasaki FS730V in my X500 the ignition coil air gap is to be 0.2 ∼ 0.4 mm (0.008 ∼ 0.016 in.). I used a business card of the proper thickness to set the gap.
    J, do you know how standard this gap would be on the Kawasaki twin engines? I have an X360 with a FS651V, and was curious if the gap would be the same (or similar). I would think it would be close to the same.
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