x758 CTC FEL & Tree Spade
Results 1 to 10 of 10
Like Tree3Likes
  • 1 Post By rydplrs
  • 1 Post By TJR345
  • 1 Post By rydplrs

Thread: x758 CTC FEL & Tree Spade

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Last Online
    Today @ 05:35 AM
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    110
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts

    x758 CTC FEL & Tree Spade

    Hi,

    I am ordering my CTC FEL finally for my x758. The guy at CTC seems to think you can just use it as is without a need to 'shim the IRV and replace the TRV'. Did anyone ever compare? I am happy to keep the tractor as is, and not mess with the hydraulics etc, but why would you do the above?

    Also, I need to uproot 7-8 foot arborvitae I planted 2 years ago. I need to remove them, and put them in a new location. I was going to get a tree spade for this, has anyone used one for this? was it successful for both removing trees and also digging the holes for them?

    Would love any input and if recommended a company where I can get them.
    x758,
    Front Mounted Dethatcher
    Rear Aerator
    Cart
    Lawn Stripe Kit
    25G Click-n-Go Sprayer
    Rear 3-point-Hitch and PTO
    Snowblower

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2

    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Last Online
    Today @ 02:45 PM
    Location
    Southern Maine
    Posts
    7,085
    Thanks
    578
    Thanked 669 Times in 561 Posts
    Without shimming the irv it will work. You can add more later.

    The THRV is required unless you fancy spending $700 on parts for the rear end as insurance. It only takes once of pushing hard with good ballast and traction to blow them out.
    TJR345 likes this.

  4. Top | #3

    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Last Online
    Today @ 05:35 AM
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    110
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by rydplrs View Post
    Without shimming the irv it will work. You can add more later.

    The THRV is required unless you fancy spending $700 on parts for the rear end as insurance. It only takes once of pushing hard with good ballast and traction to blow them out.
    Hi,

    I hate to be ignorant but what is the THRV?
    What part would I order? Are they easy to install?

    If you recommend I get parts ill get them, I dont want issues later
    x758,
    Front Mounted Dethatcher
    Rear Aerator
    Cart
    Lawn Stripe Kit
    25G Click-n-Go Sprayer
    Rear 3-point-Hitch and PTO
    Snowblower

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4
    TJR345's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Last Online
    Today @ 01:24 PM
    Location
    Area 51 in Cambria,NY
    Posts
    3,640
    Thanks
    413
    Thanked 472 Times in 363 Posts
    rydplrs likes this.
    Tom

    98 345 with 54" deck and powerflow,front thatcher,42" thrower and 30" tiller
    02 X595 with 62" deck and powerflow (almost) PTO kit 3pt hitch with Heavy Hitch
    45 JD loader
    12 JD suitcase weights
    JD/Brinly 3pt plow
    Frontier SS1036 3pt pto spreader
    (2) JS63C walk behind mowers
    TS 105 JD weed wacker
    tow behind 15 gal. sprayer
    Turftime 60" lawn roller
    Turftime 54" 3pt core aerator

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to TJR345 For This Useful Post:

    rydplrs (06-10-2019)

  8. Top | #5

    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Last Online
    Today @ 02:45 PM
    Location
    Southern Maine
    Posts
    7,085
    Thanks
    578
    Thanked 669 Times in 561 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Eire1916 View Post
    Hi,

    I hate to be ignorant but what is the THRV?
    What part would I order? Are they easy to install?

    If you recommend I get parts ill get them, I dont want issues later
    Transaxle hydraulic relief valve.(?) It goes on the transaxle and isn’t hard to install. You’ll want to swap the hydro release lever also to be compatible.

    Now the if. I think you’re tractor is a post 45 loader one. You’ll need to hope the ones from earlier models fit for the lever. The valve is available from tuftorque for less then deere. You have a version of the k92.
    sennister likes this.

  9. Top | #6
    sennister's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 03:17 PM
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    1,620
    Thanks
    16
    Thanked 184 Times in 154 Posts
    Can't help with the tree spade much. What are you looking at putting it on? The CTC? Keep in mind that as far as I know the bucket is pinned on. Mine is but maybe there was some form of design change since I bought mine 5-6 years ago.

    As for the other stuff. I agree that you must do the THRV and the lever to freewheel the machine. If you don't you run the risk of damaging the machine. It is also worth noting that this was also a requirement when you used the official 45 series FEL on a machine that could accept it like my X585. So don't consider this a hack job or something specific to the CTC FEL. It is simply specific to the machine and using a FEL.

    As for shimming the Implement Pressure Relief. I didn't do it at first. Like you I was thinking I would try it. It was OK without it being done but the FEL really couldn't lift much. The good news is that I really didn't have to worry about ballast at all. When I say it couldn't lift much, I am talking maybe 1/4 bucket of dirt, maybe 1/2 bucket of mulch if pretty dry or a full bucket of leaves. That was about all it would lift.

    I later went back and shimmed the Implement Pressure Relief valve going from something like 900 PSI to around 1200. It would still be nice to have more because I do still max it out but I now run ballast. I went fluid filled rear tires, 3pt hitch with a Harbor Freight version of the quick hitch and Heavy Hitch weight bracket with the 42# suitcase weights I steal from my Z950R. If that isn't on then it is a box grader. I have no problems with full buckets of mulch (wet or dry) and leaves. As for dirt, probably 1/2-3/4 bucket is pretty easy.

    Now here is the hard part. Unless you test the Implement Pressure Relief you really don't know where you are at. Like I said mine was running around 900 PSI. The TM has a range for "in spec" which the 900 fell within. Off of memory I think my X585's normal range was something around 750-900. On the newer machines I don't know if that is still the same "normal" range. Keep in mind the K92 transaxle is not a John Deere thing and there are lots of other tractors of different colors that run the same transaxle. That said, Deere had their spec for the tranaxle and that is the way they are configured. I have read that the high end on the PSI is around 1500. I stayed a bit below that around something like 1200 to save wear and tear on the machine. There was a thread here a while back where someone mentioned their X7xx was 1200 PSI from the factory. If yours happens to be that high, then you probably can get by just fine with the way it is. That is pretty close to what I am running.

    If it is way down below 1000, then if it were me, I would shim. The thing to keep in mind is that when you replace the THRV, the Implement Pressure Relief that you shim is right next to it. You can try it without shimming but I wouldn't do much without the update tot he THRV. So it is a lot more work to go back and do the shim later. I tore my apart twice but I ran for probably a year or more without shimming mainly because I didn't feel like ripping everything apart again. I did finally get around to doing it I think when I had to pull my fuel pump because the line popped off. At least I think that is when I did it.

    If it were me I would make a quick gauge and test the pressure. There isn't much to it. I just used a hydraulic pressure gauge that went up to about 2000 psi and put a male hydraulic line coupler on it. Hook it up to one of your hydraulic ports and cycle the hydraulics. If I remember that was all there was to it. That was many years ago though. Once you know where you are at, if you are around 1200 then I don't know if I would shim. You could and get a slight gain over where you are at when running 1200 PSI. If you are sub 1000, then I would definitely shim. The FEL is far too limited if the PSI is that low.


    JD Z950R 60" Deck with DFS Collection System

    JD X585, 54C deck,
    CTC Model X4750 F.E.L - Modified Imp Pressure Relief from 900 to 1175PSI, Power Flow and MC519 cart, 54-inch Quick-Hitch Front Blade, 47-inch Quick-Hitch Snow Blower, 3-pt hitch, HF Quick Hitch, Heavy Hitch, 60" box blade/rear blade, Dethacher, Sprayer cart

  10. Top | #7
    sennister's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 03:17 PM
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    1,620
    Thanks
    16
    Thanked 184 Times in 154 Posts
    Also take a look at this thread if you haven't already seen it. I did a review about my thoughts on my CTC. There are some weaknesses as I found when I tweaked mine. I had to do some work to beef it up but since the 45 isn't really an option anymore, I would get one again if I had to stick with the smaller X7xx platform. Though if I were buying new right now I would personally go up to at least a 1 series if not a 3025E. I do have to admit that the smaller machine is handy and I might miss that if I do step up to the 3E series.

    x739 with ctc loader?

    Here is where someone mentioned that their Implement Pressure Relief was 1250PSI from the factory. If yours is that high I wouldn't mess with shimming it. Be sure to address ballast though because your front axle can't take that much load and without it and that much PSI. You can lift the back tires off the ground.

    x739 with ctc loader? - Page 4


    JD Z950R 60" Deck with DFS Collection System

    JD X585, 54C deck,
    CTC Model X4750 F.E.L - Modified Imp Pressure Relief from 900 to 1175PSI, Power Flow and MC519 cart, 54-inch Quick-Hitch Front Blade, 47-inch Quick-Hitch Snow Blower, 3-pt hitch, HF Quick Hitch, Heavy Hitch, 60" box blade/rear blade, Dethacher, Sprayer cart

  11. Top | #8

    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Last Online
    Today @ 05:35 AM
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    110
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    Thanks everyone for all this help and chiming in to help me out.

    So I ordered a pressure gauge and from what I read turn off the tractor, plug the gauge into the GREEN port, turn on tractor, warm up (although some say it doesnt matter) and use the hydraulic levers, read the psi on the gauge.

    Now, i did read someone had 1250psi from factory, in that case dont shim the IRV, however, if it is 1250psi by some chance then should I still do the THRV replacement?
    Rod at CTC says sure go ahead and shim but hes never had an issue with someone not doing the THRV.

    I am really not mechanical on these tractors, although ive done a few things already this would be pushing it beyond what im comfortable with.

    Ok, as for counter ballast:
    Rod at CTC says the FEL can be used with the mower deck still on, is this useful counter ballast?
    If not, I do have a 3PH, so, is a better option an iMatch with 8x42 lb weights? Or do I have to get another weight bar for the iMatch and bushings or what? I have no idea how the counter ballast works.....
    Another option is wheel weights if you recommend those, or the fluid filled tires? I dont know what to do here on ballast.
    x758,
    Front Mounted Dethatcher
    Rear Aerator
    Cart
    Lawn Stripe Kit
    25G Click-n-Go Sprayer
    Rear 3-point-Hitch and PTO
    Snowblower

  12. Top | #9

    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Last Online
    Today @ 02:45 PM
    Location
    Southern Maine
    Posts
    7,085
    Thanks
    578
    Thanked 669 Times in 561 Posts
    The THRV is needed to protect the transaxle, it’s unrelated to shimming which is for loader lift power.

    Your x will have traction because of 4wd. That is not the reason for ballast, keeping the tractor upright is. I recommend all of the above for ballast.

    Fluid in the tires
    Wheel weights
    And suitcase weights on the rear when in use.

    Wheel weights and fluid can stay on, even with a wet yard I doubt you’d see a difference in rutting. Suitcase weights help tip the teeter totter effect to actually transfer load from the front axle to the rear, where wheel weight only keeps those wheels down and the front axle is still highly stressed.

  13. Top | #10
    sennister's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 03:17 PM
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    1,620
    Thanks
    16
    Thanked 184 Times in 154 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Eire1916 View Post
    Thanks everyone for all this help and chiming in to help me out.

    So I ordered a pressure gauge and from what I read turn off the tractor, plug the gauge into the GREEN port, turn on tractor, warm up (although some say it doesnt matter) and use the hydraulic levers, read the psi on the gauge.

    Now, i did read someone had 1250psi from factory, in that case dont shim the IRV, however, if it is 1250psi by some chance then should I still do the THRV replacement?
    Rod at CTC says sure go ahead and shim but hes never had an issue with someone not doing the THRV.
    THRV is cheap insurance. It isn't hard to change. I think someone mentioned it takes a 1" socket probably deep well. You may not have something that big as most sets don't go that high. I probably used one of my 3/4" deep well impact sockets with a regular ratchet.

    I am really not mechanical on these tractors, although ive done a few things already this would be pushing it beyond what im comfortable with.
    As mentioned the THRV is an official change for a machine being fitted for a 45 series loader. You could check with your dealer and see what they would charge to swap it out. I do not see them taking liability in doing a reshim though. They shouldn't have a problem with the THRV. Also keep in mind the THRV won't void a warranty (if you have one) running a machine without the changed THRV likely would void it as would shimming the implement pressure relief if you told them you did it.

    Ok, as for counter ballast:
    Rod at CTC says the FEL can be used with the mower deck still on, is this useful counter ballast?
    Yes it can but you will find it may get in the way. Keep in mind unless you lock it out, it will go up and down with the bucket when you dump or curl. If you have any grade to your yard, the FEL will raise your center of gravity so it makes the tractor more tippy even when not carrying anything. You don't have a ROPS for protection like a 1 Series. Also having a bucket out in front of you makes it a lot harder to mow around trees. I found I would take off my FEL unless doing FEL work. A lot of times if doing FEL work the mower deck would get in the way so I would take that off. You cannot put the mower deck on or take it off while the FEL is on. The FEL has to come off first. That said, he is right that it can be done. I more often than not found the two a bad combination and does little to nothing for you in terms of ballast.

    If not, I do have a 3PH, so, is a better option an iMatch with 8x42 lb weights? Or do I have to get another weight bar for the iMatch and bushings or what? I have no idea how the counter ballast works.....
    This is what I do. I don't have iMatch but the cheaper version from Harbor Freight. iMatch won't give you anything to hang weight from. You need something like a Heavy Hitch weight bar. There are a few different versions. I think I have this one and the optional cart.

    https://heavyhitch.com/product/categ...oint-hitch-cp/

    I have 6 x 42# weights from my Z950R that I put on the Heavy Hitch when I am not using the collection system on my ZTrak. The bar will hold 8 weights but I only have 6 and it is fine. My rear tires are filled with winter grade washer fluid though so I probably have as much weight as 8 weights. If you want to go fluid filled tires you will still likely want more weight than that so either go the HH with suitcase weights or I think you can do a ballast box as well. Provided the X7xx can lift it high enough. I have never tried the BB route but that is what a lot of people use on the bigger 1 Series. You will also need 2 bushings as you mentioned for the HH or BB.

    Another option is wheel weights if you recommend those, or the fluid filled tires? I dont know what to do here on ballast.
    As mentioned I use a combination of suitcase weights, fluid filled tires and beer belly. One note on fluid filled tires. It will degrade your ride quality a bit. You need to maintain some air pressure in there so don't fill them 100%. Also since the weight is always there if you have a sensitive yard with some wet spots you might tear things up a bit more. Where if you stuck with only external weight you can take it off when you don't need it. Because the suitcase weight hang off the back of the tractor they actually provide a little bit more weight to counteract the load being lifted. Keep in mind not only is this for stability but also your front axle can't take the weight that you might be lifting without ballast.


    JD Z950R 60" Deck with DFS Collection System

    JD X585, 54C deck,
    CTC Model X4750 F.E.L - Modified Imp Pressure Relief from 900 to 1175PSI, Power Flow and MC519 cart, 54-inch Quick-Hitch Front Blade, 47-inch Quick-Hitch Snow Blower, 3-pt hitch, HF Quick Hitch, Heavy Hitch, 60" box blade/rear blade, Dethacher, Sprayer cart

  14. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •