Main thing to think about with ballast are;
1. How easy is it to remove and put back on the tractor? This is where many ballast boxes have a real disadvantage as they are a lot of concentrated weight in a small, very heavy unit and very difficult to handle without either assistance or a hydraulic floor jack, etc. A 3ph with I Match is the best way to use a dedicated ballast box.
2. Does the ballast have other uses such as on implements, on the front of the tractor, etc? Suitcase weights are very handy to use on a variety of projects and ballast needs. They only weigh 42 pounds each, so they are easy to handle and add to individual implements to enhance their operations, such as thatch rakes, core aerators, etc.
3. If your machine was mine, I would add the cast iron rear wheel weights and the click and go rear weight bracket. Use suitcase weights to max out the weight bar's capacity.
4. If your budget permits, I would add the rear 3 point hitch kit to your tractor and then the Heavy Hitch rear 3 point weight bar and the suitcase weights. Heavy Hitch also makes a dolly cart with casters to make putting on and taking off the 3 point hitch weight bar as easy as could be.
5. You can add a 2" rear hitch receiver and then use the
Heavy Hitch weight bar for the 2" receiver with the suitcase weights. You would need to determine if this was a better solution for you verses the "Click N Go" weight bracket from Deere. Use the suitcase weights on this for rear ballast and you have a great set up.
In order of ideal solutions, my selections would be in the following order;
Number 4 would be the first choice.
Number 5 would be my very close second choice. The only reason it's second is it sure would be handy to have the rear 3ph arms if in the budget as it opens you up to a wide range of other implement options, which dramatically expands the utility of and your use of your machine.
Number 3 would be my third choice
Number 1 would be last choice and only if I had no other options. Ballast boxes are single purpose implements and dang heavy to move being so small and so heavy. You need your FEL to move it, but that's putting the FEL before the ballast (like the cart ahead of the horse..:laugh:..)
Note All of my suggestions and options assume using the rear wheel weights on your machine in addition to the number option.
Under no circumstances would I ever use the tractor with the FEL without the proper rear ballast, regardless of the terrain, etc.
I would also suggest removing the MMM whenever using the FEL for work, as its very easy to get the MMM into dirt piles, knocked crooked, when driving on rough terrain, etc. The MMM hangs too low for you to not risk negative consequences. Please note, I am not saying that whenever the FEL is on the machine, the MMM has to be removed.
I am specifically talking about using the FEL to move dirt piles, mulch piles, carry loads, etc. and doing things which take you onto or through terrain which is rough and risks negaatively impacting the MMM. At a minimum, have the MMM raised into the highest park positon when its not in use and the FEL is on the tractor.