Best Ballast Set Up For FEL x758
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 35
Like Tree14Likes

Thread: Best Ballast Set Up For FEL x758

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Last Online
    Today @ 05:38 AM
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    150
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts

    Best Ballast Set Up For FEL x758

    Hi

    I got a CTC loader on the way. Just wondered what ballast I should do for it. I also use a snowblower, my property is ‘relatively’ flat for the most part.

    I have the rear Click N Go bracket. And CTC day you can keep the deck on when you use the FEL, I don’t know how much use that is or if people prefer not to use.

    If people suggest iMatch can you let me know what I’d need to get in terms of parts with that ie bushings 8 suitcase weights or whatever

    Anyways,,,let the suggestions begin!
    x758,
    Front Mounted Dethatcher
    Rear Aerator
    Cart
    Lawn Stripe Kit
    25G Click-n-Go Sprayer
    Rear 3-point-Hitch and PTO
    Snowblower

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2
    Kbar's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:57 AM
    Location
    -Western WA
    Posts
    485
    Thanks
    37
    Thanked 54 Times in 49 Posts
    Got any pics? Loader specs, weight etc. would help. I know they make weight brackets for the 7 series.

  4. Top | #3

    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Last Online
    Today @ 05:38 AM
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    150
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    I’ve the x758
    And the FEL is the CTC loader
    I know I’ve the do some work it it on the loader side, but wanted some suggestions on the ballast part
    x758,
    Front Mounted Dethatcher
    Rear Aerator
    Cart
    Lawn Stripe Kit
    25G Click-n-Go Sprayer
    Rear 3-point-Hitch and PTO
    Snowblower

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4
    Kbar's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:57 AM
    Location
    -Western WA
    Posts
    485
    Thanks
    37
    Thanked 54 Times in 49 Posts
    I made my own ballast

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	99A1117A-EE17-47DD-9EBF-C6CB917190F0.jpeg 
Views:	20 
Size:	1.67 MB 
ID:	690758

    Or perhaps the fine people here can show you how to spend your money on boxes, or weights. There’s lots of threads related to ballast. Check them out, and I hope you find the right setup that works for you

  7. Top | #5

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 12:19 AM
    Location
    Pacific NW
    Posts
    340
    Thanks
    8
    Thanked 59 Times in 49 Posts
    If you don't have a 3 pt hitch there's the click and go weight bracket that holds six 42 lb suitcase weights and you could also add wheel weights as well. I think there's a click and go ballast box but have no idea how much it could hold plus it might be a hassle taking it off with weight in it.

    The ideal setup would be a 3 pt hitch, I-match and a heavy implement or weight bracket that could hold more than 6 weights.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails X739 blades from phone 032.jpg  
    Kbar likes this.
    2008 3320 -- 2014 X739

  8. Top | #6
    Sergeant's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Last Online
    08-19-2019 @ 10:58 PM
    Location
    Kane County,IL
    Posts
    1,132
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 210 Times in 169 Posts
    Based On the Older X700 series with 45 Loader You should Have Minimum of 750Ls of rear Ballast and that Can be a combination such as two 70LBs rear Cast Iron weight Plus the addition of 4 50Lbs cast Iron weights, Even liquid filled tires with Rim Guard and a Ballast Box with 450Lbs of Material. You Can get away with Less But to get the Best Performance Try to get 750LBs I usually run 2 72LBs Cast Iron weight(new weights are 70Lb) and at least 10 suitcase weight In a Ballast Box Plus about 2 40Lb Bags of sand so I have about 644Lbs. For Lite Material such as Mulch or snow You Can get away with 6 suitcase weights and two 50Lb wheel weight or even 6 suitcase weights alone But for Sand, Gravel and dirt, 600 Plus will really get You Great Performance and You Can shim You Valve to Get greater Lift https://www.mytractorforum.com/12-jo...-more-psi.html I wouldn't exceed 1300 PSI thought the trans is rated for 1500PSI You Can then Get almost as Much Lift as a 120R Loader with a 49inch Bucket On a 1025R But You will need that 600Lbs Plus Ballast to Lift something That heavy. The 45 Loader On a X700 series with Out shimming Can Lift about 700Lbs to 36inches High With shimming You Can reach those Loads of 700 Plus to Max Height. BTW Deere does Make a Click N Go Ballast Box if You don't want to Invest In a Limited Cat 1 3 point Hitch
    Last edited by Sergeant; 06-12-2019 at 09:27 AM.
    69project, nastorino and Merc1973 like this.
    John Deere Models: 2025RTLB(Gen 2),X748,GX335,140H3,112SF,110RF,Sabre 1542,TX Gator
    Cub Cadet Models:0riginal,70,106,XT3GSX & Experimental Non Production Rear engine rider
    Ingersoll Model:3016PS
    Simplicity Models:Wonder Boy
    White Model: GT2055

    MSGT 11 & 18 Series Retired

  9. Top | #7
    SulleyBear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 08:20 PM
    Location
    Beautiful beaches, moderated summer heat and lake effect snows. Right where I want to be.
    Posts
    6,787
    Thanks
    1,387
    Thanked 2,425 Times in 1,360 Posts
    Main thing to think about with ballast are;

    1. How easy is it to remove and put back on the tractor? This is where many ballast boxes have a real disadvantage as they are a lot of concentrated weight in a small, very heavy unit and very difficult to handle without either assistance or a hydraulic floor jack, etc. A 3ph with I Match is the best way to use a dedicated ballast box.

    2. Does the ballast have other uses such as on implements, on the front of the tractor, etc? Suitcase weights are very handy to use on a variety of projects and ballast needs. They only weigh 42 pounds each, so they are easy to handle and add to individual implements to enhance their operations, such as thatch rakes, core aerators, etc.

    3. If your machine was mine, I would add the cast iron rear wheel weights and the click and go rear weight bracket. Use suitcase weights to max out the weight bar's capacity.

    4. If your budget permits, I would add the rear 3 point hitch kit to your tractor and then the Heavy Hitch rear 3 point weight bar and the suitcase weights. Heavy Hitch also makes a dolly cart with casters to make putting on and taking off the 3 point hitch weight bar as easy as could be.

    5. You can add a 2" rear hitch receiver and then use the Heavy Hitch weight bar for the 2" receiver with the suitcase weights. You would need to determine if this was a better solution for you verses the "Click N Go" weight bracket from Deere. Use the suitcase weights on this for rear ballast and you have a great set up.

    In order of ideal solutions, my selections would be in the following order;

    Number 4 would be the first choice.

    Number 5 would be my very close second choice. The only reason it's second is it sure would be handy to have the rear 3ph arms if in the budget as it opens you up to a wide range of other implement options, which dramatically expands the utility of and your use of your machine.

    Number 3 would be my third choice

    Number 1 would be last choice and only if I had no other options. Ballast boxes are single purpose implements and dang heavy to move being so small and so heavy. You need your FEL to move it, but that's putting the FEL before the ballast (like the cart ahead of the horse....)

    Note All of my suggestions and options assume using the rear wheel weights on your machine in addition to the number option.

    Under no circumstances would I ever use the tractor with the FEL without the proper rear ballast, regardless of the terrain, etc.


    I would also suggest removing the MMM whenever using the FEL for work, as its very easy to get the MMM into dirt piles, knocked crooked, when driving on rough terrain, etc. The MMM hangs too low for you to not risk negative consequences. Please note, I am not saying that whenever the FEL is on the machine, the MMM has to be removed.

    I am specifically talking about using the FEL to move dirt piles, mulch piles, carry loads, etc. and doing things which take you onto or through terrain which is rough and risks negaatively impacting the MMM. At a minimum, have the MMM raised into the highest park positon when its not in use and the FEL is on the tractor.
    Last edited by SulleyBear; 06-12-2019 at 10:54 AM. Reason: spacing added to make it easier to read
    nastorino likes this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





  10. Top | #8
    sennister's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:56 AM
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    1,955
    Thanks
    23
    Thanked 215 Times in 177 Posts
    I covered a lot of this in your other thread.

    x758 CTC FEL Tree Spade

    Being you have a 3pt I would go the heavy hitch route. For what it is worth I also use it in the winter when plowing or blowing. However I have noticed that 6 weights on a HH is a bit much and it can become harder to steer. So I will move 2 of the weights and hang them off the side of the Quick Attach on the front of the tractor and 4 on the HH. This gives the front end more bite and more weight to the machine in general which helps with clearing snow.

    I should mention there are a few negatives to using the 3pt. Again, like with the mower deck, the 3pt will go up and down with the dump/curl action of the FEL. You have to remember to lock it out or it is moving around back there. Not a safety issue but if you set the weights down on the ground they are not doing any good. You wouldn't have that issue on a Click n Go weight bracket. Also the Click n Go likely sits closer to the machine. While it is true that having the weight at the end of the 3pt arms plus the iMatch plus the Heavy Hitch moves it way back and provides more leverage and more effective weight, the issue is that adds a lot of length to a machine. Depending on how tight to quarters are you are working in, this may or may not be an issue. Only you can answer that. The Click n Go is likely a much more compact solution if that is a concern for you.

    Bottom line there are lots of options, everyone will have a reason theirs is the best but don't forget to look at it in your application. For me I woudn't do a ballast box but others love them and have modified them to carry other tools like rakes and shovels that they might be using when doing FEL work.

    Also be sure to read that other thread where we were talking about the CTC FEL. I went over some modifications I made to mine and why. I have tweaked the bucket and frame on it and have beefed it up in various ways. There is a link to that thread in your original post. Also I would highly recommend adding a charging port or cable that is accessible with the hood down. With the CTC FEL on you can open the hood but only 1/2 way. That is enough to check oil but you can't get to the battery. If you have a dead battery and can't get to it you will have to get creative. Better yet, just install some power leads to the battery for a battery tender or small charger.
    nastorino likes this.


    JD Z950R 60" Deck with DFS Collection System

    JD X585, 54C deck,
    CTC Model X4750 F.E.L - Modified Imp Pressure Relief from 900 to 1175PSI, Power Flow and MC519 cart, 54-inch Quick-Hitch Front Blade, 47-inch Quick-Hitch Snow Blower, 3-pt hitch, HF Quick Hitch, Heavy Hitch, 60" box blade/rear blade, Dethacher, Sprayer cart

  11. Top | #9

    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Last Online
    Today @ 05:38 AM
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    150
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    Thanks for all the comments.
    Great stuff here
    I have a 3 point hitch, so I was thinking, but tell me if I’m wrong,
    iMatch
    iMatch bushings (I think I need a pair? For each attachment, I don’t think you can transfer them to each attachment)
    Heavy Hitch (to hold the suitcase weights)
    Suitcase Weights
    Rear wheel weights
    I was going to get the HH cart also.

    Sound decent?

    The lock out valve I have is a round valve under the front right side near the hydraulic couplers, does this work as good as a lock out valve? I have it from factory as I have a 3PH and snowblower since purchase.

    I was going to also buy the
    THRV
    Freewheel spindle
    Shim kit and gauge (coming w the CTC)
    x758,
    Front Mounted Dethatcher
    Rear Aerator
    Cart
    Lawn Stripe Kit
    25G Click-n-Go Sprayer
    Rear 3-point-Hitch and PTO
    Snowblower

  12. Top | #10

    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Last Online
    08-17-2019 @ 07:55 AM
    Location
    Rhode Island
    Posts
    32
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
    This may be an easy option for you... I just upgraded to a 3 pt hitch in the back. I have the Deere click n go ballast box. Excellent shape, only 1 year old. Located in RI. $150

  13. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •