John Deere LT-133
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    John Deere LT-133

    Hi I am stuck on this tractor problem. I replaced the starter switch because the key was rusted in it. Then changed the solenoid and still wont start. Battery very good, new start switch and solenoid, checked all safety switches and wires, cannot seem to find a fusible link that people tell me to check. Can anyone help me I am not finding the problem not getting 12v to the start switch??

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    kylew's Avatar
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    Try this

    Click image for larger version.†

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    RustB, Not sure, but the fusible link may be difficult to recognize. They're usually just a "fat" area in the wire with the actual link inside the "fat" area. If you have 12v at the starter motor and 0v at the wire going into ignition switch, the link is blown. Bob
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    Fusible link

    Quote Originally Posted by rwmeyer View Post
    RustB, Not sure, but the fusible link may be difficult to recognize. They're usually just a "fat" area in the wire with the actual link inside the "fat" area. If you have 12v at the starter motor and 0v at the wire going into ignition switch, the link is blown. Bob
    Hi Bob, I found the fusible link and it was blown. I replaced it with a diode from my parts bin and tested ok. But still donít have 12v at the switch? I also pulled 5he 4 relays and took them apart and cleaned them and bench tested them all good. I wonder if it is the Stator is bad? The battery voltage goes through the fusible link then up through the engine shroud as a green, black (red)12v and 2 white wires one goes to the coil. I have taken out all safety switches out cleaned with contact cleaner as the relays. I tested all wires, grounds and hot leads still nothing.

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    Fusible link

    Quote Originally Posted by rwmeyer View Post
    RustB, Not sure, but the fusible link may be difficult to recognize. They're usually just a "fat" area in the wire with the actual link inside the "fat" area. If you have 12v at the starter motor and 0v at the wire going into ignition switch, the link is blown. Bob
    Here it is
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails BD26C225-B821-47DA-9B6F-69A7B8C90B49.jpeg

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    Why would you put a diode in place of the fusible link?

    If the diode is in backwards, you won't get voltage to the switch, and if it's in backwards, the breakdown voltage of the diode has to be greater than the battery voltage, or it'll fry it.

    The wiring diagram I posted shows the battery going through the fusible link to the ignition (key) switch. It should attach to terminal 'B' at the switch. If it were me, I'd remove the diode and use a piece of wire to jump the fusible link, then check if you have 12 volts at terminal B. That'll tell you if the wire going from the starter solenoid to the switch is good (minus the fusible link). If you measure 12V, I'd cut the fusible link out and replace it with an inline fuse holder. I don't know what the equivalent amp rating of the fusible link is, so I'd start with a 10 amp fuse in the fuse holder. I think a 20 amp fuse is the most you'd want to try if the 10A fuse blows.
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    Fusible link

    I put the diode in correct and I replaced it because thatís what was in there not a piece of wire. For some reason I cannot get 12 v at the switch red wire before the fuse link was replaced or not. I tested all the wires in the start circuit and come up with nothing. I used an ohmmeter with continuity point to point on wires. I donít get it?

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    RustB, If you found a diode instead of a fuse link and still don't have power, I'm thinking you replaced the "V2" diode...just above the stator in the diagram. Fusible link is still there someplace and prolly still blown! I'd follow Kylew's suggestion and mount a fuse holder. Rewire from starter solenoid to fuse holder and other side of fuse holder to ignition switch. Connect red wire from stator to fuse holder...ignition switch side I believe.

    Also, check voltage at starter solenoid, you could (???) have a bad/broken battery cable. Bob
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    Fusible link

    I already stated that I tested the whole harness including the battery wires and there all good. This was a point to point test.

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    Follow red wire from switch (210 on diagram) back to where it joins with the other red wire (220 on diagram) and check for voltage to ground. There should be a third wire, or something there at that connection. Find the other end of that "something"...prolly at solenoid... and check for voltage to ground.

    Corrosion on connections can sometimes show continuity, but will not carry voltage/amps. Bob
    kylew likes this.
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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