FC540V carb adjustment
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Thread: FC540V carb adjustment

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    FC540V carb adjustment

    I took the carb apart on my 260 today cleaned out the jets and the bowl was filthy. I turned the main adjustment on the top out 1.5 turns same for the one on the bottom. I got it to fire up but slowly died and I noticed that gas was leaking out of the bottom of the bowl. I tightened it up so it would stop leaking but now I can't get it to fire. I did notice the small adjuster had some corrosion on the tip so I gently sanded it off.

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    Topher, I'm not familiar with 540 carb but, generally speaking, slowly dying is either too much fuel or not enough. Pull plug(s) and inspect. If black/sooty looking or wet, too much fuel. Clean or replace. If clean,brown, or grey, ground on engine, crank, and check for spark. If spark, install.

    Next, remove bowl again and check float setting. If you don't have spec, get it! Also, with bowl removed, crank engine and verify fuel flowing out of needle seat.

    Other possibilities are needle valve settings. 2 screws mean 1 for idle, one for high speed. Either one could be too rich or lean. Use carb cleaner to see if it will fire. If so, move throttle plate on carb, not throttle lever on dash, and see if it will continue to run. If so, idle too rich.

    Check plug(s) and float and get back. Bob
    glc likes this.
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
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    The spark plug is wet so that tells me I'm getting gas. If I try to adjust the needle at the bottom of the bowl gas pours out

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    Not knowing anything about the carb, I really can't help. Maybe someone familiar with it will chime in.

    In the meantime, check on-line for a manual or some type of instructions for your engine/carb. Best of luck, Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

  7. Top | #5

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    I too, have had no "hands on" experience with the carb. on the 260. Looking at JD Parts, I see there were 4 different carbs. used on those engines of that time period. Some have the electrically operated fuel shut off solenoid, some don't. What is common, is a screw at the bottom that is used to drain the bowl. Not an adjustment screw.

    What is probably an idle mixture screw is located on the side near the top, on an angle, opposite the bowl drain tube. The picture does not show a tapered end, but poor detail is fairly normal on those drawings. 1 and 1/2 turns out would be a logical starting point for that one, but I have no specs. for it.

    The item in the very top of the carb. body is a jet. It should be fully seated. It would not be adjustable.

    Does yours have the solenoid? What kind of junk did you find in the bowl? Was it a jelly substance, look like pepper, or gritty white powder?

    Another typical trait of carbs. used on the Kawasaki engines is the multitude of jets, emulsion tubes, passages, etc., with tiny holes that can be blocked with just a frog hair. (something you can't see lol) To work right, every one of those must be clear. Gone are the days of being able to tune a carb. with external adjustment screws. Also make sure to blow out the fuel line fitting, from the inside out. Tiny pieces of "rubber" from the fuel hose or fuel pump can get trapped in there.

    Let us know how it's going. You can win this one.

    tommyhawk

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    Put an NGK spark plug in and it fired up right away. Adjusted the low idle screw and she runs like new
    glc and tommyhawk like this.

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    Tommy summed it up pretty well. 👍
    Last edited by 4044M; 08-28-2019 at 08:08 AM.

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