What did you do on or to your John Deere GT today - Page 209
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Thread: What did you do on or to your John Deere GT today

  1. Top | #2081
    mjncad's Avatar
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    A couple of Saturday's ago it was cool (80F) that I mowed the weeds for the second time this year. Considering the wet spring we had I was expecting to have to mow more often; but I'm happy that hasn't happened. I expect one more mowing if I'm lucky before the season ends.
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    I have more ideas than ambition.


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  3. Top | #2082
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    Just finished pulling the deck, changing to fresh sharpened mulching blades, cleaning the deck, and mowing the back two acres. I'm ready for a shower, and it is raining now. Good timing.
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  4. Top | #2083

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    So I need some insight.
    I'm ordering everything to run a stand alone 50 amp circuit off of my X758 right now. Relays, breakers, connectors, 10 gauge wire, yada yada yada... Now I don't want an always hot set up for many reasons so I'm going to make it a switched set up. My 60 gallon 17 amp sprayer is blowing 15 amp fuses like candy when using the wand, yesterday melted the 12 volt plug, then preceded to cook a 20 amp fuse. I'm done.
    Now what I'm curious to know, is can I make this little trailer light on the dash come on some how when the sprayer is on? I'm planning to use a PTO switch from a different model and install it in the dash panel in the open rocker switch location. Should be decently clean. Figured I'd go with a push pull switch since being a guy, it's basically engrained into our DNA to tug on things
    Just think it would be neat to go one extra step to make it a tad more built in.
    And just another picture from today for fun, my buddy and I are making race Murray's 🤷*♂️

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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  6. Top | #2084
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    Quote Originally Posted by WifeSaidOK View Post
    A few weeks ago, I got stuck in some mud and ended up having to pull the deck on my x370 to clean the mud out of it. After I did that, the blades did not seem to be running right. They blade speed would slow down in thicker grass, which it had never done before. And it just didn't make the same sounds when hitting the PTO switch. I suspected that something was wrong either with the PTO switch, or that the deck belt was not all the way on a pulley.
    On Sunday, after I got done mowing, I took a closer look under there. I noticed that the belt, where it came around each spindle pulley, appeared to be rubbing against the other side of the belt. It was routed correctly, at least that was my assumption, since it worked. Then I compared the actual belt routing with the diagram on the deck.

    Turns out I missed an entire pulley when I reinstalled. There is a pulley in the middle and behind the deck spindles. It works way better when the belt is routed around that pulley. Oooops.
    And to follow this up, I still screwed up the belt routing. I was mowing today and started to smell burning belt. Not good. I mowed a little longer thinking it would stop, but it didnít. Closer inspection I found that I routed the belt on the wrong side of the rod that the deck hangs down from. The belt was chewing right through it. It actually wore down the threads on the rod. The belt still works fine, but I donít expect it to have a long life after that little mishap. Sometimes amaze myself at the stupid little stuff I screw up. Oh well.
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  7. Top | #2085
    glc
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    WifeSaidOK, it sounds like you are probably going to have to replace the rod.
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  8. Top | #2086
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDavis1992 View Post
    So I need some insight.
    I'm ordering everything to run a stand alone 50 amp circuit off of my X758 right now. Relays, breakers, connectors, 10 gauge wire, yada yada yada... Now I don't want an always hot set up for many reasons so I'm going to make it a switched set up. My 60 gallon 17 amp sprayer is blowing 15 amp fuses like candy when using the wand, yesterday melted the 12 volt plug, then preceded to cook a 20 amp fuse. I'm done.
    Now what I'm curious to know, is can I make this little trailer light on the dash come on some how when the sprayer is on? I'm planning to use a PTO switch from a different model and install it in the dash panel in the open rocker switch location. Should be decently clean. Figured I'd go with a push pull switch since being a guy, it's basically engrained into our DNA to tug on things
    Just think it would be neat to go one extra step to make it a tad more built in.
    And just another picture from today for fun, my buddy and I are making race Murray's 🤷*♂️

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    Without seeing a Deere wiring diagram; it's hard to tell if you can get your standalone circuit to light up the dash light. I'm guessing not; but sparky stuff isn't my strongest skill.

    With a 50-amp circuit, relays are a must as I'd bet a switch rated for that much juice is going to be pricey and/or ugly.
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  9. Top | #2087

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    Quote Originally Posted by mjncad View Post
    Without seeing a Deere wiring diagram; it's hard to tell if you can get your standalone circuit to light up the dash light. I'm guessing not; but sparky stuff isn't my strongest skill.

    With a 50-amp circuit, relays are a must as I'd bet a switch rated for that much juice is going to be pricey and/or ugly.
    Yea I've got 60/80 amp relays coming.
    Thought the switch should work out pretty cool. Using one that should fit in the dash where the EU models have the turn signal switch.
    I'm also going to rearrange them to make more sense for how much I spray. From top to bottom. Light tag at the top, light switch second, 12 volt tag 3rd, 12 volt switch 4th, and the 5th hole will be my new sprayer switch. Hoping it comes out as clean as I've planned it in my head. If the switch doesn't look factory ish, I might either try to source one from the deerelership or move to the same on off toggle as the 12 volt switch.
    Mind you I use a sprayer almost every other week between liquid fertilizer, insecticide, herbicide, fungicide, and a commercial version of round up. So it needs to be able to do the job without fail.

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  10. Top | #2088
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    Quote Originally Posted by glc View Post
    WifeSaidOK, it sounds like you are probably going to have to replace the rod.
    No doubt. Fortunately for now, the worn down part is way down at the bottom, about an inch lower than where the adjustment nut is right now. If I ever need to adjust it that much lower, which seems like it would be a lot lower, then I'll replace it. I'll probably pick one up to have it in my shop when I need it.
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  11. Top | #2089

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    Quote Originally Posted by TDavis1992 View Post
    Yea I've got 60/80 amp relays coming.
    Thought the switch should work out pretty cool. Using one that should fit in the dash where the EU models have the turn signal switch.
    I'm also going to rearrange them to make more sense for how much I spray. From top to bottom. Light tag at the top, light switch second, 12 volt tag 3rd, 12 volt switch 4th, and the 5th hole will be my new sprayer switch. Hoping it comes out as clean as I've planned it in my head. If the switch doesn't look factory ish, I might either try to source one from the deerelership or move to the same on off toggle as the 12 volt switch.
    Mind you I use a sprayer almost every other week between liquid fertilizer, insecticide, herbicide, fungicide, and a commercial version of round up. So it needs to be able to do the job without fail.
    I hope you have an x758 with removable blanks. Not all of them are. My 2016 x758 has the empty covers just molded into the rest of the dash as a solid piece. Found that out when trying to remove a blank to add a Noco battery tender plug/status light. If you can't pry them out then you'll have to use a Dremel and cut them out. But that means you can't relocate the label blanks where you want them. Just something to keep in mind.

    As for the new hookup, why are you going with 50A? Is that really what your sprayer uses for current? I can tell you from experience in trying to wire up a 20A circuit for adding a linear actuator to a MC519 dump cart that components (switches, wiring, connectors) get expensive fast as you go up in current capacity.

    Rob
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    So the blank was not removable. Some quick dremel work took care of that though.
    Apparently the other night I left the key on.... it's flat dead.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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