X585 Overheating
Results 1 to 8 of 8
Like Tree3Likes
  • 1 Post By etcallhome
  • 1 Post By scooter
  • 1 Post By etcallhome

Thread: X585 Overheating

  1. Top | #1
    etcallhome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 08:11 PM
    Location
    Preston County WV
    Posts
    13,379
    Thanks
    3,262
    Thanked 2,458 Times in 1,583 Posts

    X585 Overheating

    Over the last few years , daughters FIL x585 that I mow with, has been overheating at times. Didn't matter the outside temp could be cold doing leaves and temp gauge would go near or on the red of the gauge.
    Come down to the garage , take a water hose, spray some water from engine side toward the seat and temp gauge would go back to normal.
    The owner even had his dealer check it a couple of years ago and could find no problem. Shop foreman even asked if when it showed hot did the engine shut off,,,no never has..

    OK today while mowing for about a hour, happen to look at temp gauge and it is completely buried, way, way past the re line, like 1-2" guessing as farr as the needle could go.
    So within 50' or so of his garage, raised the hood and drove it to his building. Gauge going no where, with engine running , sprayed some water toward the radiator. Still no change on gauge and noticed the overflow tank still at normal level, thinking this thing is not overheating. After a few minutes, cracked the radiator cap and then finally removed . Very little steam and no bubbling of antifreeze inside radiator. At this point had a senior moment even touched the antifreeze with finger, It's NOT overly HOT..Well at least to burn me. So that tells me engine is not overheating.
    So either the gauge cluster or sending unit at the end of radiator hose. Or at least this is my thought.

    So is there anyway to check the sending unit ?

    Or is there something else that could be causing this . ?

    Oh I did take the connection loose at sending unit and gauge went back to normal . After engine running maybe 3 mins pegged again, disconnected it one more time ,needle went to normal position , reattached , did the same thing. Ran the mower another 2-3 hrs ran fine , needle pegged.

    Looks like sending unit around $50.00 new cluster close to $400.00

    x585 has right at 900 hrs and 10 yrs old.

    Thanks for any help..!
    Gene

    Have fun and be safe !!!
    USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG 99th ARCOM
    JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54" bucket, 54" mmm Auto Conn, 54" Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48" Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5' rear blade, a new 47" JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater.
    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2

    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Last Online
    03-02-2019 @ 06:20 PM
    Location
    Lehigh Valley PA
    Posts
    3,228
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 201 Times in 195 Posts
    Start the engine with the rad cap off. Watch the coolant until the thermostat opens. Then you should be able to see the fluid circulate. If any air is trapped in the system this will purge it. Top it off & put the cap back on. Use a infrared temp gun to take readings of the system. If nothing is over 210* to 230* she is not overheating. If all is ok replace the sending unit.

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to H-D dealer dude For This Useful Post:

    etcallhome(10-15-2015)

  5. Top | #3
    etcallhome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 08:11 PM
    Location
    Preston County WV
    Posts
    13,379
    Thanks
    3,262
    Thanked 2,458 Times in 1,583 Posts
    Thanks,,,I think I had engine running with cap off , but just in case I will do that next time over at his place ,guessing Tues or Wed of next week.

    Well the daughters FIL & I had talked and that was our thought to change the sending unit. Far cheaper that a complete new dash unit .
    Gene

    Have fun and be safe !!!
    USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG 99th ARCOM
    JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54" bucket, 54" mmm Auto Conn, 54" Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48" Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5' rear blade, a new 47" JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater.
    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

  6. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  7. Top | #4

    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Last Online
    06-25-2016 @ 07:43 AM
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    13
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    Hi
    I have 2003 X495 with over 4300 hrs and I had the same problem. I change out water pump , took rad out pressure wash it. I run it with out a themostat it help a little. Finely took the gauge cluster out and clean it out of all the dirt and dust and found there was a bad solder joint on the gauge cluster ground by plug block, fix the solder joint and no more overheating. Hope this helps.







    2003 X495 4300 plus HRS , 62C mower, 47" blower
    2007 X748 1950 HRS , Curtis Hard cab, $7" blower , 52" broom
    LX 178
    1830 with 147 loader

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to scooter For This Useful Post:

    etcallhome(10-15-2015)

  9. Top | #5
    etcallhome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 08:11 PM
    Location
    Preston County WV
    Posts
    13,379
    Thanks
    3,262
    Thanked 2,458 Times in 1,583 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by scooter View Post
    Hi
    I have 2003 X495 with over 4300 hrs and I had the same problem. I change out water pump , took rad out pressure wash it. I run it with out a themostat it help a little. Finely took the gauge cluster out and clean it out of all the dirt and dust and found there was a bad solder joint on the gauge cluster ground by plug block, fix the solder joint and no more overheating. Hope this helps.








    2003 X495 4300 plus HRS , 62C mower, 47" blower
    2007 X748 1950 HRS , Curtis Hard cab, $7" blower , 52" broom
    LX 178
    1830 with 147 loader

    Just wondering how hard is it to take the cluster out. Only see the x585 once a week for 4-6 hrs. If I remember two screws at the top of cluster but not sure what else.
    Thanks for any help.
    Gene
    BigJim55 likes this.
    Gene

    Have fun and be safe !!!
    USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG 99th ARCOM
    JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54" bucket, 54" mmm Auto Conn, 54" Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48" Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5' rear blade, a new 47" JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater.
    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

  10. Top | #6

    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Last Online
    06-25-2016 @ 07:43 AM
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    13
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    HI
    I can take my cluster out in about 5 mins, there are 2-10mm bolts on top can be reached with a deep socket. Undo the 2 screw on each side to let dash move a bit and 2-10mm bolts that hold rad. support. Then lift cluster up to remove it from the bottom clips you have to move it around to get it out, and unplug wiring first. Hope this helps






    Scott
    2003 X495 with 4300 plus hrs. 62c mower 47" blower
    2007 X748 with curtis hard cab 47" blower 54" blade 52" broom
    LX 178
    1830 with 147 loader
    BigJim55 likes this.

  11. Top | #7
    etcallhome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 08:11 PM
    Location
    Preston County WV
    Posts
    13,379
    Thanks
    3,262
    Thanked 2,458 Times in 1,583 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by scooter View Post
    HI
    I can take my cluster out in about 5 mins, there are 2-10mm bolts on top can be reached with a deep socket. Undo the 2 screw on each side to let dash move a bit and 2-10mm bolts that hold rad. support. Then lift cluster up to remove it from the bottom clips you have to move it around to get it out, and unplug wiring first. Hope this helps






    Scott
    2003 X495 with 4300 plus hrs. 62c mower 47" blower
    2007 X748 with curtis hard cab 47" blower 54" blade 52" broom
    LX 178
    1830 with 147 loader

    Thanks for reply, I wasn't wanting to tear any more off the tractor than needed. Just happened to be at dealership yesterday and mechanic told me about the same thing. Again Thanks for the info.

    While to talking to mechanic he was telling me a few things to check because this past week found out the oil pressure sensor (switch) is leaking.
    BigJim55 likes this.
    Gene

    Have fun and be safe !!!
    USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG 99th ARCOM
    JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54" bucket, 54" mmm Auto Conn, 54" Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48" Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5' rear blade, a new 47" JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater.
    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

  12. Top | #8
    sennister's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 08:49 AM
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    2,095
    Thanks
    30
    Thanked 224 Times in 185 Posts
    Digging up an old post here for some more info for others.

    I have a 2002 x585 at 1050 hrs that has some electrical gremlins as well. This has gone on for several years now. If I run the PTO the temp gauge will peg out. Shut off the PTO and it drops to normal in 1-2 seconds. No way it could be overheated and cool that down that quick. Doesn't matter if I am cutting grass in June or blowing snow in December it does this. Took it to the idiots at the local dealer as I didn't have time to mess with it and didn't want the machine down for a month if I did. Now this dealer is also a Yamaha Motorcycle dealer and it always seems like they are more interested in working on them. They said temp sensor and thermostat. The replaced both and claimed the problem was fixed. However still did it when I got home. Then I discovered an oil leak on the ground. Never did that before so I investigate. I found that there was a leak from the oil pressure sensor. I also notice that it is clean with teflon tape on the sensor. As I look closer I can see the block was cracked where it attaches. My guess is the tech though he was pulling the coolant sensor but pulled the oil sensor in. Over torqued it cracking the block. Pulled it put teflon tape on and carefully tightened it and hoped I would never notice. There was nothing on the invoice or work order to indicate they touched it. I took lots of photos and went to the Service Manager. He denied it. I went to the owner and chewed his rear end with my photos and explained that my next stop was my lawyer. He called in the SM and he now admitted that it might have been them. They had be bring it in and they were able to replace the front of the block and not the entire engine as this is the part where it was broken. I take it home and still leaking oil. This time it was the front seal on the same part where the crank shaft goes though. Take it back and they change that out. So now, no more leaks but the temp gauge still pegs out. Tried a new PTO switch as it does only happen with the PTO active. Same issue.

    I figure the heck with it, it isn't overheating. No way it can go back to normal temps within 1-2 seconds of shutting off the PTO with the engine at WOT or not on a 95F day. It is clearly electrical. Fast forward a few months in the middle of winter. I am out plowing the driveway and all of a sudden the engine dies. It cranks and cranks but won't start. Get the machine back to my shop (Heated Pole Barn). Start digging into it. Finally trace it down to a blown EFI fuse. That is odd. Toss in a new fuse and it fires right up. Back out of the pole barn and all is good. Start blowing and the first bump it shuts down. Check the fuse sure enough blown again. I swap it out and limp back to the shop. Now I do a jiggle test with the engine running. As I work around I get to the harness the runs up the side of the engine and it blows the fuse. I look close and on the bolts for the valve cover there is a little ridge around the top. The harness is touching here and there is a little wear mark. The ridge on the bold wore through the insulation on the fuel injector wire. Just enough that if I hit a bump it shorts out the EFI and blows the fuse. I suspect that when they put the engine back in they didn't run the harness quite right. I tape up the bad wire, re-bundle the wires, add a wire loom to better protect the wires running up the side of the engine and tie it off to the engine lift bracket to isolate it better. That issue has been fixed now but something to check for those out there.

    I am to the point now where I really want to fix this issue. Now the fuel gauge also pegs out and the service engine light will flicker from time to time. Again only when the PTO is running. I was out plowing yesterday with no issues. I don't want to tear into it in the summer as I need to mow. I don't want to tear into it in the winter as I never know when it will snow. Fall sucks because of leaf duty. That leaves a small window in the spring. I also have a CTC FEL for the machine and don't like mowing with it on and there are lots of times where I want to use the FEL but don't feel like putting it on and taking it off. So now I am looking at other options. I am still working on the wife but I have a Z950R zero turn with the collection system that I am working with the dealer on. Should I mention it isn't the dealer close to my house that screwed up my x585? There is another dealer near my work that I am working with which only sells Deere and Stihl. I think we are close on the details and the financing is in place if I pull the trigger. Mainly I need to work on the wife. Since I would say about 75% of the hours I rack up are mowing this seems to make the best sense. This will dedicate the x585 to FEL/snow duty and give me the time to work out the issues in the summer. I considered a new tractor but the new x7XX machines don't have a FEL option. So while I could get a new one for mowing and keep the x585 for FEL I think I am better off with something made for cutting grass. If I wanted a FEL in one unit, I would have to step up to the 1 Series but then I start to loose out on attachments. I don't know that I could use my current collection system. While the snow blower and blade would fit the new quick hitch, I would need a new FEL and mower deck. The only collection system I see has the bagger. I dump on-site so I don't want a bagger as it is more work to dump. Which is where the Dump From Seat collection on the Z950R is appealing ever though it is smaller than my cart on the x585.

    It is nice to hear others comment on the dash as the issue. I was pretty much down to either that or another wire rub somewhere in the PTO circuit though a wire rub would more likely blow a fuse. Too bad the dash is so dang spendy to try it. I might crack it open and see if I can find a broken soldier joint like mentioned here and try a fix. I have replaced stepper motors in the dash of my truck several times so I am used to working on them.

    Edit: Another issue I had a while back was engine surging. Traced that down to fuel pressure not being right so I dug into the fuel tank thinking I had a bad fuel pump. Turns out the fuel pump slipped off the rubber hose in the fuel tank. So it was just spraying fuel into the end of the hose. It would get enough pressure to start but them the tractor would run way too lean. To the point where the exhaust would glow bright red. Replaced the bit of hose with some bulk like from the auto store (only takes about 2-3 inches) and it has been fine since then.
    Last edited by sennister; 12-27-2015 at 02:00 PM.

  13. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts