Chains or Lugs
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    Poncho65's Avatar
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    Chains or Lugs

    Thinking about this coming winter and what rear wheel set up will provide the best traction for plowing snow. Would you guy's go with turf tires and (2-link) chains or lug tires for the best traction in snow? Tractor is a 455 with rear weights......driveway is paved.

    Thanks!
    1996 JD-455
    1995 JD-STX-38

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    ejb69's Avatar
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    Chains
    Eric

    2011 1026R / H120 / 60D auto-connect, independent-lift mmm / 54" snowblower / 4' KK Pro rotary mower / KK 4' tiller

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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    Owned a 425 yrs ago. with lug tires I still needed chains ,FEL has a MF 1455 over 35 yrs old he bought his with turf tires and he still needed chains.
    Biggest difference during the summer I could mow all of our yards without chains, he never could he needed chains till he bought lug tires about 2 yrs after I bought the 425.
    We do have 15 -20% slopes in our backyards my driveway is sloped,and we plowed our church parking lot and it is sloped not as bad as my drive but sloped.
    Oh our driveways has concrete and church is paved. It also makes a difference if sun shines on drive during the day, to melt snow and then freezes before you can get out and plow.
    Gene

    Have fun and be safe !!!
    USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG 99th ARCOM
    JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54" bucket, 54" mmm Auto Conn, 54" Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48" Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5' rear blade, a new 47" JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater.
    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

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    T-Mo's Avatar
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    This is very debatable. Chains work best for packed snow and ice, but can cause damage to paved or concrete driveways. Lug tires work good in snow, but not so good on ice, but won't damage asphalt or concrete drives. And if you have a large slope or grade on your drive, chains is also best. 2 links is the better choice as it puts more cross chains onto the surface. Also 2 links work better on lug tires, though chains on lugs usually don't do as well as chains on turf tires. The chains tend to fall in the valley between the raised lugs and are not as effective as they are on turfs
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    What kind of terrain are you working with?

    If you're mostly level (slight grades), you would probably be just fine with wheel weights and the bare turfs. If you get a little slip, you could fill the rears to add another 100 lbs or so. Worst case would be to add some light chains. This would give you the most flexibility, including being able to pull the chains (if you end up using them) in the summer and going right back to mowing without missing a beat.
    ---

    2011 JD 2520 with 200cx loader, 61" materials bucket, and Artillian JDQA Pallet Forks (42" forks). 62D MMM, ballast box, turfs, and loaded rears.

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    Doug's Avatar
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    Chains, the one's that have two links between cross links.

    Doug

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    Are you in Boston proper? North burbs? West? South? If you're NW (outside of 495 especially), you'll likely want filled rears, weights, AND chains. If you're more South Shore or inside of 128, chains are probably less of a need.
    ---

    2011 JD 2520 with 200cx loader, 61" materials bucket, and Artillian JDQA Pallet Forks (42" forks). 62D MMM, ballast box, turfs, and loaded rears.

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    HydroHarold's Avatar
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    Mid Hudson River Valley NY: First winter with the GX I tried "The Grand Experiment", plowing with turfs/no chains. (Cue the "wrong answer" horn!) I made the first pass to the street OK, it's downhill and even with the diff-lock engaged I almost didn't make it back up that single row with the blade up. Granted, it's on a hill, but if you have so much as a small strip of packed snow you are going to lose traction.

    I'm a well chiseled 200+lbs (insert "B.S" emoticon here), have 160lbs of suitcases on the back frame and 50lbs. of cast concrete behind them and it's still chains all the way. Even more weight would not help. Too many situations where you can get into trouble without chains. Pushing off the side into deeper snow with no chains = stuck, no backing out. Going in too far bunching up a pile with no chains = stuck. Chains allow you to plow way more snow than loading the tractor down with excessive weight which in most cases you have to take off in the mowing season anyway. Bar tires may put more weight on less rubber, but they'll ride right on top of snow just like turfs without chains and will slip. Been there, done that with a Gravely.

    If the plowed surface scratching is a issue, try a rubber edge on the plow blade (not snowblower). It will reduce the amount of surface damage to near zero since it cleans so well the chains won't slip as much. (IF your plowing technique is good!) I found on my "painted" blacktop driveway that the damage wasn't coming from the chains, but from the steel plow edge.

    Rubber edge caveat: You MUST do your plowing before the surfaces gets too packed down! After a few passes by cars the rubber will plow off only the loose snow and leave the "slider strips" of packed snow. I put the rubber edge on about 5 years ago and never took it off again. It also makes the plow very useful for cleaning up white pine storm damaged branches, you can push them into piles right on the frozen lawn with no damage. Up until I got the Johnny Bucket Jr. I used the plow to crowd firewood splits up to the stacks without tearing up too much soil with the plow edge...
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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HydroHarold View Post
    Mid Hudson River Valley NY: First winter with the GX I tried "The Grand Experiment", plowing with turfs/no chains. (Cue the "wrong answer" horn!) I made the first pass to the street OK, it's downhill and even with the diff-lock engaged I almost didn't make it back up that single row with the blade up. Granted, it's on a hill, but if you have so much as a small strip of packed snow you are going to lose traction.

    I'm a well chiseled 200+lbs (insert "B.S" emoticon here), have 160lbs of suitcases on the back frame and 50lbs. of cast concrete behind them and it's still chains all the way. Even more weight would not help. Too many situations where you can get into trouble without chains. Pushing off the side into deeper snow with no chains = stuck, no backing out. Going in too far bunching up a pile with no chains = stuck. Chains allow you to plow way more snow than loading the tractor down with excessive weight which in most cases you have to take off in the mowing season anyway. Bar tires may put more weight on less rubber, but they'll ride right on top of snow just like turfs without chains and will slip. Been there, done that with a Gravely.

    If the plowed surface scratching is a issue, try a rubber edge on the plow blade (not snowblower). It will reduce the amount of surface damage to near zero since it cleans so well the chains won't slip as much. (IF your plowing technique is good!) I found on my "painted" blacktop driveway that the damage wasn't coming from the chains, but from the steel plow edge.

    Rubber edge caveat: You MUST do your plowing before the surfaces gets too packed down! After a few passes by cars the rubber will plow off only the loose snow and leave the "slider strips" of packed snow. I put the rubber edge on about 5 years ago and never took it off again. It also makes the plow very useful for cleaning up white pine storm damaged branches, you can push them into piles right on the frozen lawn with no damage. Up until I got the Johnny Bucket Jr. I used the plow to crowd firewood splits up to the stacks without tearing up too much soil with the plow edge...
    Nice write up!
    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD, The Wife
    BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak

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    DRobinson's Avatar
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    Poncho:

    I plowed my dirt driveway (600 feet on a grade with a curve) for 16 years with my 445 equipped as follows:

    54 Blade
    Wheel weights (1 pair)
    Six JD suitcase weights mounted on rear weight bracket
    JD chains (cross chain on every other link on the side chains)
    Ag tires

    It plows snow like a little bulldozer, but I have been stuck a few times over the years, mostly due to my own stupidity. Like Hydroharold says, in deep snow, you have to push off to the side. However, it will handle a foot of snow or more with no problem. Plowing snow would be fun if you could do the job at 50 or 60 degrees.

    This year I will use the 2320 and 200CX loader, with no chains, eight suitcase weights on an Omni hitch and 4WD. I may have to add weight, but I am going to try to avoid chains, because they are such a PITA to deal with.

    Don
    Don

    2320, 54D MMM, 200CX FEL, 54 Front Blade with Artillian Extensions, Omni Transformer Hitch
    445, 54 mower and 54 front blade
    80 dump cart, 21 walk behind mower

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