PTO clutch -signs and symtoms
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    PTO clutch -signs and symtoms

    Ok I ahve this 88' 185 hydro with a 46" deck. Got it running very well.
    I removed the deck and gave it a good cleaning, just scraped out, no power washer.
    I got it back together with new blades, fired it back up and turned on the deck and it bogged down temporarily and recovered quickly,(Like normal)

    Now that I want to actually mow...it started fine...runs fine ...BUT when I engage the mower it Kills the engine. It does not matter even if the I have the throttle wide open.

    So Is it a bad PTO clutch?? what are the symtoms of one going bad?? The deck turned pretty free when I put on the new blades, so I kinda doubt the spindle bearings. maybe

    I presume that the PTO clutch would cut out during mowing if was going bad....it gave no hints during the brief time it was on traveling back to the shed...be it although brief trip.

    The other suspect might be the fuel pump?...but considering that it starts easy and throttle up quickly with no hesitation, it to, isn't high on my list of suspects.

    any insights would be appreciated

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    gbnpp05's Avatar
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    When you say the engine stops, are you saying it bogs and quits or just quits with some free wheeling?

    My guess is the PTO clutch is fine. Simple test would be to remove the mower deck belt from the PTO pulley and try to engage the PTO. If it doesn't stall, the clutch is not your problem. If it does stall I would guess you've had a bearing fail in the clutch.

    My other thought is you R&R's the deck and got the mower drive belt outside a guide somewhere.(that is if it's bogging when the engine stalls)

    The other thing to check is the seat switch if it's still enabled.
    Brian

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    Yes it bogs down and would died...if I would leave the PTO switch engaged.
    Engine recovers quickly as soon as I turn off the PTO/Mower.

    I'll double check the belt routing but considering that it worked after I cleaned and installed new blades and reinstalled the deck, I kinda doubt that is the issue ...but I'll recheck and do the no load test, (AKA remove the belt and see if it still boggs down)

    explain more about the seat switch please.

    Thanks for the reply
    Last edited by Smoketown Marty; 04-16-2016 at 10:49 AM. Reason: more

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    I would look to any electronic safety interlocks before I looked at anything mechanical.

    When electric things go out, they tend to just stop. Almost like someone threw a switch. They either work, or they don't work. Like a light bulb.

    Mechanical things tend to slow down gradually as they die. A bad bearing will often grind an rattle for a while before it jams up for good.
    '50 Model M w/electronic ignition, 12v conversion, and a 3pt conversion plus a homemade snowplow, a Deere Model 51 trailer plow, a Woods RM59 finish mower, a Bark Buster splitter, and a few other toys.
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    '07 F250 XL Powerstroke, crew cab, short box, 4x4.
    '85 F150... I finally sold my very first truck after racking up over half-a-million miles on the original drivetrain.

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    gbnpp05's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smoketown Marty View Post


    explain more about the seat switch please.

    Thanks for the reply
    The seat switch is located near the center of the seat. Fold the seat up and there should be a switch protruding from the seat bottom with wires connected to it.

    Your butt on the seat should activate the switch. Mine's jumpered and I can't remember the circuit as to whether the seat switch controls start up/engine run regardless of where the PTO switch is as far as on/off goes.
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    Brian

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    Quote Originally Posted by gbnpp05 View Post
    The seat switch is located near the center of the seat. Fold the seat up and there should be a switch protruding from the seat bottom with wires connected to it.

    Your butt on the seat should activate the switch. Mine's jumpered and I can't remember the circuit as to whether the seat switch controls start up/engine run regardless of where the PTO switch is as far as on/off goes.
    yes I understand where it is located and its main task is sense a weight or depression on the seat for starting and running. I just didn't think it was wired into the PTO switch too..especially in 88'?? seems a bit early for that

    If this was seat switch is faulty...wouldn't I have trouble starting as well? It starts great. I'm not saying that it can't be bad...just seems that it would present other signs/symptoms.

    So if I were to sit in the seat & try and start the engine with the PTO engaged and it turns over anyway, ( all be it slower), then can I presume that it hasn't been wire in to the seat switch . I'm I thinking correctly?

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    OK the belt routing is fine...double checked it.

    with belt off... the mower deck all turns free. AND when trying to engage the PTO it still want to kill the engine, regardless of throttle position.

    I unplugged the electrical to the PTO clutch itself and there is like 3ohms resistance through the clutch. Is that about right?

    Is there a fuse for just the PTO?

    I wonder if it is the switch...can't get any continuity across any of the spades on the back of the switch except in OFF position, then only 2 spades.... ( its a five spade switch placed like on a dice) where should get what?

    the seat switch acts normal ...jumper wired it to double check and no change.
    Last edited by Smoketown Marty; 04-17-2016 at 02:04 PM. Reason: more

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    Still issues

    Ok got a new PTO/ mower engagement switch....that didn't help, no change, engine still kills if I turn it on.
    I pulled off the the actual PTO clutch and that revealed a wire is bare right where it goes into the housing, so I thought, ahh there it is...but no.
    With nothing plugged to the PTO and no clutch present...I tried to engage the PTO...it still acts/ tries to kill the engine
    I wish I would have tried that before I removed the clutch. I ran out of time and put it way in the shed for the day.
    obviusly there is a dead short somewhere. I'll try a new seat switch 1st, which I have as well.

    Is there any other places to look or check?

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    got it

    Ok first off...Kudos to those who responded "check all switches"....you were right
    I did replace the seat switch...even though it functioned properly for starting...no weight on the seat...no start.
    I took that, (yes,assumed & ya know what means) as it should work correctly for the mower deck as well.
    replaced the switch and cleaned up a corroided fuse and wha-la...the world once again is spinning correctly on is axis.

    I used some spray on rubber to seal the wires coming out of the clutch...& stuck it all back together & some nice windrows

    Thanks again for all who responded
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smoketown Marty View Post
    Ok first off...Kudos to those who responded "check all switches"....you were right
    I did replace the seat switch...even though it functioned properly for starting...no weight on the seat...no start.
    I took that, (yes,assumed & ya know what means) as it should work correctly for the mower deck as well.
    replaced the switch and cleaned up a corroided fuse and wha-la...the world once again is spinning correctly on is axis.

    I used some spray on rubber to seal the wires coming out of the clutch...& stuck it all back together & some nice windrows

    Thanks again for all who responded
    Thanks for posting the resolution to your problem. Hopefully that will help someone else with a similar problem.
    Smoketown Marty likes this.
    Brian

    2720 JD MCUT
    200CX Loader
    62D On Ramp Mid-Mount Mower
    61 Inch Bucket
    Grooved R4's
    Tiller King Kutter Professional Green 60-Inch TG-G-60-JP
    Rear Blade Woods 72-Inch
    Middle Buster King Kutter MB-YX

    GT245 Garden Tractor

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    Smoketown Marty (04-24-2016)

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