4010 PTO jiggle
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Thread: 4010 PTO jiggle

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    4010 PTO jiggle

    The rear PTO has been leaking since I got my 4020 MCUT about 28 months ago. It hasn't been bad, less than a qt every 100 hours, but I decided to get a seal for it just to keep things cleaner. I started to pull it apart today but before I got started I noticed slight movement in the shaft. I would guess less than 1/16th inch front to back and less than that vertically. Is that enough to get a new bearing in it while it's open or should I just put the seal in and call it good? Could the movement be the seal and not the bearing?

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    2008 John Deere 4010MCUT R4 tires with 410 loader, 5' box, 5' grader, 5' Rock Rake 4' John Deere Brush cutter, Linebacher (SP) Auger, 42" Homemade ripper, Homemade 3pt trailer hitch.

    Not a clue what I'm doing, but it's always lots of fun.

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    theduke's Avatar
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    is it a 4020 or a 4010 like your signature says?

    The good news is I find No issues in a Basic search.....
    The only thing that pops up is a couple of your old threads.

    Now if it were a "old" 4010 with the 2 speed pto......bad juju...Split it to fix it.
    Last edited by theduke; 06-25-2019 at 07:35 PM.
    Dan


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    4010, typo

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    2008 John Deere 4010MCUT R4 tires with 410 loader, 5' box, 5' grader, 5' Rock Rake 4' John Deere Brush cutter, Linebacher (SP) Auger, 42" Homemade ripper, Homemade 3pt trailer hitch.

    Not a clue what I'm doing, but it's always lots of fun.

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    So put the seal in and don't worry or go ahead and get the bearing?

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    2008 John Deere 4010MCUT R4 tires with 410 loader, 5' box, 5' grader, 5' Rock Rake 4' John Deere Brush cutter, Linebacher (SP) Auger, 42" Homemade ripper, Homemade 3pt trailer hitch.

    Not a clue what I'm doing, but it's always lots of fun.

  7. Top | #5

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    Hello?

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    2008 John Deere 4010MCUT R4 tires with 410 loader, 5' box, 5' grader, 5' Rock Rake 4' John Deere Brush cutter, Linebacher (SP) Auger, 42" Homemade ripper, Homemade 3pt trailer hitch.

    Not a clue what I'm doing, but it's always lots of fun.

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    Tomfive's Avatar
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    It looks like you were waiting for an answer, so I'll just give some advice.

    To answer one of your questions, an oil seal give no support to the shaft, it just does what the name implies, it keeps the oil in and the dust out. Bearing play due to wear will cause your seal to wear prematurely because the shaft is shifting (usually laterally /side to side), placing more stress on the rubber lip as the rubber lip of the seal follows the shaft.

    How much lateral play is "too much"? Depends on the type of bearing and set-up. Is your bearing worn ... I don't know.

    Should you change the bearing too? For me it would depend on how much work is takes to get at it. Usually oil seals can be replaced from the outside, and bearings need to be done "from the inside". It depends on your tractor (and I'm no expert and don't know your tractor). So, if you can replace the seal from the outside, I'd just do that, since seals are relatively cheap and if it wears out again, just change it again. If you have to split the case to replace the seal, that's a lot more work, so if you're already in there and YOU feel that the bearing is worn because of excessive play, easier to change it while the case is open. You probably don't want to do it all over again if the new seal starts leaking again. And you'll have piece of mind that it's a new bearing and seal.

    Just my 2 cents.
    Tom

    2011 1026R/R4's -- H120 FEL/49" -- 260 BH/12" -- Bro-Tek Ripper -- Artillian Forks/42" -- 244 lbs JD Rear Wheel Weights -- KBOH Hooks and Clevis' --
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