2032R, 2018, will not start.
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Thread: 2032R, 2018, will not start.

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    2032R, 2018, will not start.

    66 hours. After cutting grass for an hour and turning off tractor, it will not start backup. Sitting in seat, gear selector in neutral, pto off, turn key, dash lights up, beep heard, turn key to engage starter, all lights go off, nothing. Keep trying after moving gear selector, again nothing. All lights go off. It does this continually till finally it engages and Tractor cranks up. Maybe 10 attempts. Any ideas please?

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Sounds like the battery. Do you have a battery tester or multimeter? If so, measure the battery voltage at rest and then again when you turn the key to the crank position. Let us know what the two voltages are. I have a feeling the voltage is dropping to near zero when you try to crank.

    Could also be the battery connections. Remove the battery connections, clean terminals and battery posts, reconnect and tighten.
    Last edited by jgayman; 07-06-2019 at 12:33 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddavi239 View Post
    66 hours. After cutting grass for an hour and turning off tractor, it will not start backup. Sitting in seat, gear selector in neutral, pto off, turn key, dash lights up, beep heard, turn key to engage starter, all lights go off, nothing. Keep trying after moving gear selector, again nothing. All lights go off. It does this continually till finally it engages and Tractor cranks up. Maybe 10 attempts. Any ideas please?


    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    Sounds like the battery. Do you have a battery tester or multimeter? If so, measure the battery voltage at rest and then again when you turn the key to the crank position. Let us know what the two voltages are. I have a feeling the voltage is dropping to near zero when you try to crank.

    Could also be the battery connections. Remove the battery connections, clean terminals and battery posts, reconnect and tighten.


    since it does eventually start--i wouldn't think it would be the switch

    my guess--is the battery terminals are a bit dirty not making good connections--or it could be the batteryi have went thru 3 batteries in the 13 yrs so far. this last one has lasted the longest probably will die now.
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    jim

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    If it eventually starts.. Rule out battery. Check connections. Dont just look. Take em off.. Clean, reconnect. Bright and tight. I've seen crap key switches. More than a couple. I've seen wires backed out of connectors/plugs. Wiggle, jiggle. When it wont turn over, hold the key to start.. Wiggle jiggle the wiring harness, battery cables ect.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
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    Quote Originally Posted by xcopterdoc View Post
    If it eventually starts.. Rule out battery. Check connections. Dont just look. Take em off.. Clean, reconnect. Bright and tight. I've seen crap key switches. More than a couple. I've seen wires backed out of connectors/plugs. Wiggle, jiggle. When it wont turn over, hold the key to start.. Wiggle jiggle the wiring harness, battery cables ect.
    While you are probably correct, prudent troubleshooting practice would dictate that you assume nothing and a component, however unlikely, isn't eliminated until it is eliminated. I had a wet cell battery once that had some kind of intermittent internal connection issue with one of the terminals. It would load test good one moment and the next appear like a dud.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    I'm with xcopterdoc ,, ,,yes it could be a bad battery , but more than likely a loose wire or dirty connection.
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    Check the wire at the starter solenoid. Someone had an issue with that on a 38r. It was stretched tight to connect it and I don’t remember if it came off but it was a simple fix.
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    No Luck

    I tried the recommendations suggested per the battery. No luck. Cables clean and very tight. Only 67 hours on this tractor. 12.7 cold voltage. 14.4 volts engine operating temperature hot. Turned the deck on also. Ran it at 2000 rpm for 35 minutes. Turned off and waited a couple minutes. Did the problem one time by not starting. No lights on dash. Tried again and it started the second time and subsequent attempts were good. Problem must come and go. Dealer cannot fix what is not broke. Battery and cables are good.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddavi239 View Post
    I tried the recommendations suggested per the battery. No luck. Cables clean and very tight. Only 67 hours on this tractor. 12.7 cold voltage. 14.4 volts engine operating temperature hot. Turned the deck on also. Ran it at 2000 rpm for 35 minutes. Turned off and waited a couple minutes. Did the problem one time by not starting. No lights on dash. Tried again and it started the second time and subsequent attempts were good. Problem must come and go. Dealer cannot fix what is not broke. Battery and cables are good.
    Not saying it's your problem, but one time I had a 1989 Mazda 323. It was brand new. On day one it would suddenly not start at all, like no battery was even installed. I took it back to the dealer and it worked fine. I played dealer tag for a few days before it died for them too. They had to re-crimp the positive battery cable connecter and that fixed the problem.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    While you are probably correct, prudent troubleshooting practice would dictate that you assume nothing and a component, however unlikely, isn't eliminated until it is eliminated. I had a wet cell battery once that had some kind of intermittent internal connection issue with one of the terminals. It would load test good one moment and the next appear like a dud.
    I agree.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
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