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    nikdfish's Avatar
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    Working on a flagpole ...

    The wife decided she wanted a flagpole up in the front yard by July 4, so I have been working at getting one made. I found a DIY materials list on a flagpole products web site & used it as a basis for ours.

    I am building a "tip up" version, so it can be lowered if needed for repairs (or whatever), built from 3 ten foot lengths of schedule 40 pipe - 2", 1.5" & 1.25". The base is another 10' piece of 2" that is cut in half & will be set into a concrete base, one leg on each side of the 2" base piece & pinned with a couple of long 1/2" bolts. About 2.5' of the base will be in concrete & the other 2.5' above ground. Rebar will be welded to the lower portion of the base to help anchor things in the concrete.

    The 3038e was out at the acreage, so I gave the 1025R a try with the PHD and a 12" auger. It was a bit much for the little guy, but I ended up getting a roughly 4' hole sunk for the base.







    I am working out in the tractor storage building & it is kind of a "make do" setting. Power comes from the generator out there. The following is from the last couple of days - the heat & humidity make me disinclined to push too much on any one day.

    The best way to work with the pipe was a couple of old folding chairs as saw horse stand-ins. First step was cutting a 2" pipe into 2 pieces. The angle grinder was the easiest way to work as the pipe wasn't secured enough for a sawzall. The circumference for the cut was marked using a length of flat ribbon cable from an old disk drive interface as a guide for the marker.







    Lines were marked using a piece of angle iron as a self aligning guide & a circumference drawn to mark ground level.



    Locations for holes were marked at 6" & 28" up from ground level.



    A step drill was used for the first holes



    The ribbon cable was used to find the opposite side locations by marking circumference length & marking the halfway point. With the overlap at the original line, the halfway mark set the points for drawing the line on the opposite side.



    With the lines drawn, the same measurements from ground level set the punch point for the next holes



    With holes drilled, the bolts were used to pin the pieces and verify alignment. A little tweaking of the holes was needed, but not much. The parts were marked to show proper orientation.



    The same steps were used to mark corresponding locations on the base of the uncut 2" pipe.



    Once the holes were drilled, the long pipe was mated with the base pieces & a small amount of additional tweaking to let the bolts go through easily.



    With the pieces in alignment, it was time for adding the plates that will keep the base components in alignment and keep the upright from passing vertical when tipped up. I got out the old Lincoln AC225 & hooked it up to the 7K Champion. I don't claim any skill with the stick welder, this is the second or third project so far & I am learning as I go.





    (looking at this last pic, I need to double check that bottom plate to see if there is interference with the vertical when it gets horizontal ...)

    I had a couple of short pieces of 1/2" rebar for the bottom of the base. I need to add a couple of "legs" to extend down to the hole bottom so I can stabilize things at the desired level before adding the concrete.



    This is where I stopped today. More posts as things continue.

    The plan is to set the base & concrete it in with the bottom portion (2") of the vertical in place. After the concrete sets, the 2" gets removed & the whole pole assembled. Each joint gets about a 12" overlap. The 1.5" nests easily in the 2" (I may add some beads to tighten the fit some). The 1.25" will need to get a line relieved to clear a ridge on the inside of the 1.5" - it will also need a bit of "whittling" to slide easily (less than 0.1" overall). Joints will get welded & a cleat and top pulley will get added. A bit of zinc bearing paint & then assembly followed by tip up is the plan.

    Nick
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    BigJim55's Avatar
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    looks very nice so far. probably well it was the fall of 1976, after i got my cast off my leg, and i was still living with my uncle and aunt right up the road from where i live now. and our one neighbor needed help siting a locust pole into the ground-that he made for a flag pole. he skinned the bark off of it, left it dry, and then he painted it white. drilled the hole in the top for the pulley, slide some rope thru it, before we stood it up, and into the hole. that thing was heavy even back then, but believe it or not, it's standing, and a flag still hangs off of it, every day. keep the pics a coming-i enjoyed it very much. waiting for the end results.
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    Great post look forward to seeing the conclusion
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    I have a 5' dress maker's tape that I use for measuring round and other irregular shapes.
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    I have more ideas than ambition.


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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    You probably already know this, but welding on glavanized releases poisonous gases. Make sure to use a fan and get that smoke away from you as you burn it in.

    Looking forward to seeing how this works out.
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    nikdfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieselshadow View Post
    You probably already know this, but welding on glavanized releases poisonous gases. Make sure to use a fan and get that smoke away from you as you burn it in.

    Looking forward to seeing how this works out.
    Thanks for the warning mention, I was aware of that potential issue. It didn't show in the pics, but I had two box fans running on high & blowing in line with the pipe towards the open roll up door, also all six building windows are open for the summer so there was good air flow (not just stirring inside air).

    Nick
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    Bonehead Club Lackey Levi's Avatar
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    nikdfish's Avatar
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    Small update, found the lower plate did indeed interfere with the center tube going to horizontal. I had already planned to cut off the visible threaded portions for a cleaner look, so I marked the point where the tube bottom would clear the plate, removed the center tube & cut there as well as the opposite end.





    I added a rebar "foot" that should help with getting the base at the proper height & reinforce the concrete plug.



    I then reassembled the vertical segment with the base & verified proper range of motion and the ability to re-insert both bolts.

    After a couple of days of rain, the hole I dug has about 29" of water in it despite being covered. When it comes time to install the base I may have to drop in a bilge pump to empty it out a bit (the pump normally pumps water from a barrel I carry with one of the tractors or gator when there are a number of transplants to water....).

    I am going to wait for a dial type level indicator to come in on Wednesday before installing the base. I want to get it right & think the degree marked dial indicator will make me more confident in the results than a bubble level.

    I figure on clamping a couple of 2x4 boards to the vertical at right angles, sloping out with their bottom ends to be screwed to a couple of stakes to hold things in alignment while doing the concrete. If I can't find appropriate caps for the base tube tops (& maybe even then), I am thinking to fill them with expanding foam to keep out water & insects. The base of the vertical will probably get some brass scrubber pads stuffed in to keep nest builders out.

    More installments will follow when there is more progress.

    Nick
    mjncad, Tomfive, Levi and 1 others like this.
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    Water in the hole

    Quote Originally Posted by nikdfish View Post
    Small update, found the lower plate did indeed interfere with the center tube going to horizontal. I had already planned to cut off the visible threaded portions for a cleaner look, so I marked the point where the tube bottom would clear the plate, removed the center tube & cut there as well as the opposite end.





    I added a rebar "foot" that should help with getting the base at the proper height & reinforce the concrete plug.



    I then reassembled the vertical segment with the base & verified proper range of motion and the ability to re-insert both bolts.

    After a couple of days of rain, the hole I dug has about 29" of water in it despite being covered. When it comes time to install the base I may have to drop in a bilge pump to empty it out a bit (the pump normally pumps water from a barrel I carry with one of the tractors or gator when there are a number of transplants to water....).

    I am going to wait for a dial type level indicator to come in on Wednesday before installing the base. I want to get it right & think the degree marked dial indicator will make me more confident in the results than a bubble level.

    I figure on clamping a couple of 2x4 boards to the vertical at right angles, sloping out with their bottom ends to be screwed to a couple of stakes to hold things in alignment while doing the concrete. If I can't find appropriate caps for the base tube tops (& maybe even then), I am thinking to fill them with expanding foam to keep out water & insects. The base of the vertical will probably get some brass scrubber pads stuffed in to keep nest builders out.

    More installments will follow when there is more progress.

    Nick
    No real need to pump the water out of the hole if you don't want to. If you mix the concrete just a tad rich and pack it in, the water will come out anyway and the concrete will be very, very hard when it sets. You would, however lose a bit of the mix as the water overflows so you would have a skim around the hole if you don't pump. I had a friend who worked with a fencing contractor. The first time he was told to put concrete in a wet hole, he told his boss that was crazy. They came back a few days later and found out it worked just fine.

    Treefarmer
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