The wife decided she wanted a flagpole up in the front yard by July 4, so I have been working at getting one made. I found a DIY materials list on a flagpole products web site & used it as a basis for ours.
I am building a "tip up" version, so it can be lowered if needed for repairs (or whatever), built from 3 ten foot lengths of schedule 40 pipe - 2", 1.5" & 1.25". The base is another 10' piece of 2" that is cut in half & will be set into a concrete base, one leg on each side of the 2" base piece & pinned with a couple of long 1/2" bolts. About 2.5' of the base will be in concrete & the other 2.5' above ground. Rebar will be welded to the lower portion of the base to help anchor things in the concrete.
The 3038e was out at the acreage, so I gave the 1025R a try with the PHD and a 12" auger. It was a bit much for the little guy, but I ended up getting a roughly 4' hole sunk for the base.
I am working out in the tractor storage building & it is kind of a "make do" setting. Power comes from the generator out there. The following is from the last couple of days - the heat & humidity make me disinclined to push too much on any one day.
The best way to work with the pipe was a couple of old folding chairs as saw horse stand-ins. First step was cutting a 2" pipe into 2 pieces. The angle grinder was the easiest way to work as the pipe wasn't secured enough for a sawzall. The circumference for the cut was marked using a length of flat ribbon cable from an old disk drive interface as a guide for the marker.
Lines were marked using a piece of angle iron as a self aligning guide & a circumference drawn to mark ground level.
Locations for holes were marked at 6" & 28" up from ground level.
A step drill was used for the first holes
The ribbon cable was used to find the opposite side locations by marking circumference length & marking the halfway point. With the overlap at the original line, the halfway mark set the points for drawing the line on the opposite side.
With the lines drawn, the same measurements from ground level set the punch point for the next holes
With holes drilled, the bolts were used to pin the pieces and verify alignment. A little tweaking of the holes was needed, but not much. The parts were marked to show proper orientation.
The same steps were used to mark corresponding locations on the base of the uncut 2" pipe.
Once the holes were drilled, the long pipe was mated with the base pieces & a small amount of additional tweaking to let the bolts go through easily.
With the pieces in alignment, it was time for adding the plates that will keep the base components in alignment and keep the upright from passing vertical when tipped up. I got out the old Lincoln AC225 & hooked it up to the 7K Champion. I don't claim any skill with the stick welder, this is the second or third project so far & I am learning as I go.
(looking at this last pic, I need to double check that bottom plate to see if there is interference with the vertical when it gets horizontal ...)
I had a couple of short pieces of 1/2" rebar for the bottom of the base. I need to add a couple of "legs" to extend down to the hole bottom so I can stabilize things at the desired level before adding the concrete.
This is where I stopped today. More posts as things continue.
The plan is to set the base & concrete it in with the bottom portion (2") of the vertical in place. After the concrete sets, the 2" gets removed & the whole pole assembled. Each joint gets about a 12" overlap. The 1.5" nests easily in the 2" (I may add some beads to tighten the fit some). The 1.25" will need to get a line relieved to clear a ridge on the inside of the 1.5" - it will also need a bit of "whittling" to slide easily (less than 0.1" overall). Joints will get welded & a cleat and top pulley will get added. A bit of zinc bearing paint & then assembly followed by tip up is the plan.