New Thread on the Forklift Crane Build
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    JD4044M's Avatar
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    New Thread on the Forklift Crane Build

    Came up with a better idea for the Boom Crane on how to build it. I have this Portable 2 ton well built engine crane in my shop my Father in Law left me. I got to thinking it is a Crane already and I could use parts of it to mount to the Forklift Forks also. Not ruin the Cherry Picker but this one is made out of 6' x 3" x 1/4" Box Steel base and a Top Boom made of 5' x 3" x 2" x 3/16" box steel. The base has a Section welded onto it for the Hydraulic Jack Base that would fit right into the Channel Iron on the Forklift Adapter and long enough to bolt to the frame too. That would give me a section of 3" Box Steel sticking past the Fork Tips 2 feet.

    The Top Boom would extend the boom another 5 foot further making a boom tip 12 ft from the nose of my tractor or 7 foot past the Fork Ends!! The steel is strong enough to do the job just need to make a splice point for the boom top to become ridged. Could do that with a section of solid steel inside the tube and keeping it pined together. That part I will think more on. Don't need much more steel to finish the project and it will serve 2 jobs instead of just a boom inside my shop for lifting. Neat part is the End Section can flex up higher right at the tips and be supported. Here is a few pictures of the Crane as it sits and it is Trussed in the right spot too!

    Could also build another boom to slide into the Base from this Crane and make it the length I want and shove more inside the base for more strength. This is a BIG Cherry Picker not some cheaper Harbor Freight one. Just steel for the Boom Assembly will add up in cost and I have it already in this just need to re/work it a little. Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	662362 This is what goes on the Fork Tips the Lower Booms Jack Base would set in and bolt to sticking strait out from the tips.Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	662364There are 2-1/2" diameter Grade #8 Bolts that go thru the tips of the forks to keep it from shifting. This part is now JD Green and so will the boom be painted JD Green! Should look factory when finished and save me a chunk of change in the process building it.
    Last edited by JD4044M; 12-16-2018 at 05:26 PM.
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    BigJim55's Avatar
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    jim

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    2018 835R gas model gator-"aka" the Cadillac i say!! 6ft jd snow plow-which already has a dtac out on it. i got just about everything on it i could at the time

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    JD4044M's Avatar
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    This is what the Original Hoist Jack hooks to on the Main Hoist Upright brace. This is what will sit down into the 4" wide Channel Steel on top of the fork tips. I will weld something in the channel to hook like the jack did when I drop the back down onto the Forklift Frame to bolt in place. It is starting to get to easy now something is not going to fit or line up when I try to build it. Tomorrow I will take off the snow pusher blade and put the Forklift Attachment on and see how it is all going to come together?Click image for larger version. 

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    Sounds like a neat project can’t wait for updates.
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    I like it! Make sure you post the pics when you do the test fit.
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    JD4044M's Avatar
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    I will post as it goes along. It is a Poor mans Hoist but made out of a good and strong one! My Father in Law would crap seeing me do this with it! He was a top design Engineer for Boeing. Did the design for the 12 doors hinges on the 747 which included the escape chutes slides. He told me how he cam up with a high pressure cylinder that had a pin to pieced the cylinder top seal to blow the door open and fill the chute and not require voltage or hydraulic power to work the emergency escape method. He got a paten for the system and sold it to Boeing to use. My Daughter has the original wooden model of the hinge and paten papers. I have a Piolets Owners Manual to Fly the 747 and a complete blueprint to the structural build on it. He worked on the First Air Force 1 for Nixon too and more stuff about it put away. That why it was so hard to build stuff with him he was a perfectionist!! He could tell me what the steel needed to be, how thick, safety ratio you name it on building the boom. I do miss his knowledge but I kept his notes and books on the subjects. Spent 34 years doing stuff with him married to his Daughter! I wired 2 of his new custom homes he had built. Like a second Dad to me that I never had growing up, he died when I was only 11 years old.
    Last edited by JD4044M; 12-16-2018 at 08:10 PM.
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    I have more ideas than ambition.


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    JD4044M's Avatar
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    Did the Mock Up now I know what I need to buy in steel

    I slipped the Spreader Bar I made on the Forks and bolted it on. Fit great it still needs the pulley mount welded on under the middle of the channel steel. Took the Engine Hoist Base and sat it on the Spreader Bar Frame and it fit just right into the Channel Steel and left me room to make a bracket for bolting to the Fork Lift Frame. I will weld a lip the old Jack Base will slip under to keep it from lifting up or sliding to the sides. It will lock into it then bolt up to the Forklift frame. On that end I will use Box Steel to go into the Base about 12 inches and have a 4" x 1/2" Thick angle iron lip that comes up under the Frame and bolts to it. That way weight on the Boom pushes it up into the frame and down onto the Channel Steel.

    The Spreader Bar bolts to the Fork tips with 2 - 1/2" Grade 8 bolts thru the forks. Each Sleeve has 12" of weld holding them to the Channel Steel. Full Length Welds under the Channel. That was a project to drill them out being tempered steel forks! Went thru a lot of bits doing it but there even and in the thick part. I can lift with just the Spreader Bar using the loader hydraulics or Winch Cable going up to it since the forks can go up 9 ft and be level still. That will be my strongest lift on them or slide it back to the frame for even more lift power. On the Main Boom Base I will add a 10 ft long 2" x 1/4" Box Steel extension I can slide in and out of the Base. I measured it and it would give me 17 ft from the nose of the tractor Max and still have some inside it.

    I know my lifting power will go way down but then I can raise it by tilting the boom back and bringing the tip closer to the nose but way high in the air to lift stuff like my well pump and put things up on the roof or lift a small beam in place. I should be able to get about 20 ft max of lift and still be tilted some to keep the boom solid in place. Going to town to get the rest of the steel this will be a easy project to finish up. I will also get some strap steel for shim material on the Second Boom for a tighter fit inside the 3" x 1/4" Box Steel Base sitting on the forks. Click image for larger version. 

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    JD4044M's Avatar
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    If I need to for more strength on the extended Boom being out so far I can add a section of 5/16" Chain or Cable from the Forklift Frame down to the tip on a angle then most the weight will be in tension on the chain/cable for better support and no bounce. When the Boom is extended that far the loader can't lift that much weight so the Box Steel should be fine for what I want to do with it. I will do a load test just to be sure it all holds before it is put into use where I can get myself in trouble using it! I can just slide out the 2nd 10 ft long 2" box steel boom and put a pulley on the old hinge pin at the tip of the base. Then it will lift 2,000 lbs or more with out a problem bending.
    Last edited by JD4044M; 12-17-2018 at 01:59 PM.
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    Done Welding and tired!

    It can go 20 ft in the air and up to 16 ft away from the nose of the tractor. Needs painting to look better but the welding part is done. Going to do a live load test with at least 500 lbs on the tip with people and let them bounce on it. The steel won't bend but wondering if it will lift that much out 16 ft? The boom sides back and forth 3 ft and can slip out if needed but it makes the Main Base real strong inside the 3" Box Steel. I am tired but tomorrow I can do some tests on it in the daylight it was getting dark out fast!Click image for larger version. 

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