Machined a replacement anti-scalp roller shaft
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    johncanfield's Avatar
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    Smile Machined a replacement anti-scalp roller shaft

    I'm getting my Gravely Promaster 100 ZTR ready to sell (since I have a new ZTrak) and I'm getting pretty anal about getting it in tip-top condition. I guess because it's fun and the old girl can have a long productive life with a new owner.

    Anyway the front anti-scalp roller has had a bunch of slop in it for years and since I have the mower in the air on my 2 post vehicle lift I thought I might as well try to restore the roller as much as possible. I pulled the shaft and the contact point on the shaft and the bracket is very worn, you can see the groove worn in the shaft in the picture.

    I measured the diameter of the old shaft and amazingly I found some round rod laying on my lathe the right diameter (~0.62") and even a little longer than I needed. The odds of that happening again are about zero, I was expecting to rummage around my steel stock for half an hour looking for a rod.

    I really didn't need to chuck the rod in my lathe but it was a good excuse to play with it. I faced one end, cut to size, faced it then added a chamfer on both ends. A Scotchbrite abrasive pad made it nice and shiny. Then off the vertical mill to drill the holes on each end for the cotter key keepers. Using the mill's vise was much easier than trying to use a drill press for this small diameter rod. I used a centering drill and then drilled to size.

    Now I have to figure out how to deal with the elongated holes on the bracket that holds the roller - it's easy to see how worn the holes are from the picture. I'm currently leaning toward adding fill with my TIG and then drilling to finished size. I thought about cutting those ears off and making new ones but that's a bunch of work. Another idea was to tack weld washers but they would eat into the shaft rather quickly.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails GravelyAntiScalpRollerShaft.jpg GravelyAntiScalpRoller.jpg
    Last edited by johncanfield; 06-30-2019 at 12:45 PM.
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    2010 Model 4720 with cab and H180 loader, MX8, MX6, Frontier BB1172 box blade, forks, bale spear, rear blade, WR Long grapple and tooth bar, Fit Rite Hydraulics top and tilt. 2019 Bobcat E42 excavator with cab & several attachments. 2019 Deere Z945M EFI ZTrak 60" 7 Iron Pro deck.

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    Herminator's Avatar
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    Very nice. Since you have a lathe I would drill the hole round, then machine a stepped bushing to fit the new hole and tack weld the step part of the bushing to the bracket in a couple spots.

    At least you didnít mention just welding the rod into the bracket. I had someone do that on something I bought.
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    John, I'm with Herminator, bush it. If you have access to a reamer, drill & ream and install an oilite bushing. If one hole is higher/lower/more forward/more rearward from other hole, who cares! This is an anti-scalping roller and should not be touching the ground. If the roller ends up a little "cock-sided" it ain't gonna hurt! Bob
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    johncanfield's Avatar
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    Woot!

    Brilliant idea from the Herminator.

    Since I already had the shaft made I didn't want to machine a stepped bushing so I made them the thickness of the mounting bracket. I was considering making them from brass stock and somehow welding brass to steel but I've never done that and I'm not sure that's even possible so I made them from 1" steel round bar. I wanted to use the shop press to press a brass bushing in but due to the shape of the bracket I didn't think that wasn't possible (unfortunately.)

    I think I'll use TIG process with no filler rod to melt the bracket to the bearing in three places - should do fine. I suppose I could drill a couple of holes in the joint between the bracket and bearing and use filler rod.

    It would have been nice to have somehow improved the design - maybe with a real sealed bearing or even use bearing steel for the bearing material but I don't have any (I'll order some for shop stores.)

    To my surprise, this has turned out really well and the new shaft and bearings line up really well. I never know what to expect when enlarging a hole, especially one that large. Tomorrow I'll TIG the bearings and put it back together. I felt the rear anti-scalp roller and it has a bit of slop but not enough to spend the time fixing. When I showed she who must be obeyed the shaft I machined she thought I was nuts for spending so much time on the roller since we're selling the Gravely.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails BoringSleeveBearing.jpg BearingGoodFit.jpg DrillingOneInchHoleForBearing.jpg BearingsFittedToBracket.jpg GravelyOnLift.jpg

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    2010 Model 4720 with cab and H180 loader, MX8, MX6, Frontier BB1172 box blade, forks, bale spear, rear blade, WR Long grapple and tooth bar, Fit Rite Hydraulics top and tilt. 2019 Bobcat E42 excavator with cab & several attachments. 2019 Deere Z945M EFI ZTrak 60" 7 Iron Pro deck.

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    Herminator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johncanfield View Post
    When I showed she who must be obeyed the shaft I machined she thought I was nuts for spending so much time on the roller since we're selling the Gravely.
    Looks good but yes wives will think like that. However doing the little extra is why she is still your wife and the good Karma from the new owner might be just the little extra that gets you into heaven if it’s a close decision.

    Nice lift. When I poured my shop floor I dug 4 trenches 6’ x 2” that would be a foot deep so I could put one of those in 2 places. I don’t have a lift but the concrete is still there.
    Last edited by Herminator; 06-30-2019 at 04:51 PM.
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    Welcome to Intermission.

    2017 2038R, 400, 3020 & HPX and thingies to hook to the them.
    112 - Sold in July 2017 but took me until November to admit I just cast it out into this cruel world.
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    johncanfield's Avatar
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    I think you only need 5Ē of concrete for this particular Atlas lift - it is the 10,500 pound model. They arenít that expensive and itís a very useful piece of shop equipment for the DIY guy, once you have one itís like why did I wait so long.
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    sennister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johncanfield View Post
    I was considering making them from brass stock and somehow welding brass to steel but I've never done that and I'm not sure that's even possible so
    Yes it is possible but it isn't welding.

    Welding is joining two like metals by melting the base material. However they have to have a similar composition and melting point which isn't the case when you are talking brass and steel.

    Brazing is a method where you can join two similar or unlike base metals. The temps are much lower and the base metals are not melted. This is the technique you would use to join brass to steel.

    There are pros and cons to each method. Which is why some processes could call for brazing two like materials that could have been welded. For instance, the lower temps reduces risk of thermal distortion of the base metal. It can also produce a cleaner finished product without the need for going back and grinding the

    Is There A Difference Between Brazing And Welding?
    Last edited by sennister; 07-01-2019 at 08:01 AM.


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    johncanfield's Avatar
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    Brazing - DOH! Of course, I don't know why I didn't think of that - I've brazed steel and brass before. I'm setup to do brazing, GTAW, GMAW and SMAW processes in the shop.

    I had another DOH moment last night when I realized the shaft for the roller DOESN'T ROTATE - it's captured so all of the bearing talk is superfluous.
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    John, Shaft DOES rotate! Maybe it's not supposed to...by design... but it rotates in use. Look at the pics of your shaft in your first post: heavy/deep wear marks where shaft turned in elongated holes that you bushed (from shaft wear).

    Hmm, I can see brazing with GTAW or GMAW, but SMAW? I've never heard of a brazing rod used in a stick welder. Bob
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    John, I think you really bought a new mower so that you could tinker on / re-build the Toro.

    No worries. I won't tell your wife.
    Taking the easy way is what makes rivers and men crooked.

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