Advice on welding driveshaft
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    davidiowa's Avatar
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    Advice on welding driveshaft

    The drive shaft from my 2520 to my wood chipper is a few inches too short. The advice I need is to weld a piece on the shaft end, weld a piece on the receiver end, weld both, or buy a new driveshaft $$. The shaft is slightly more than 1" square. Thanks
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    2006 JD 2520, 200cx loader, 62d mower, ballast box, 54" snowblower, 3 pt. quick hitch, 5' box blade, 1948 Ford 8n, dirt scoop, 6' Dearborn blade, 2 bottom Dearborn plow, Jinwa 6" 3 pt. wood chipper, MacBook Pro, and other toys

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Buy one! IMO.
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    Keith

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    Old Pa-pa Old Cajun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidiowa View Post
    The drive shaft from my 2520 to my wood chipper is a few inches too short. The advice I need is to weld a piece on the shaft end, weld a piece on the receiver end, weld both, or buy a new driveshaft $$. The shaft is slightly more than 1" square. Thanks
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I've welded non critical round shafts with a 7018 low hydrogen rod by laying them in
    a thick piece of angle iron and clamping them down in the "V".
    Butted them after really beveling them, than built up pass after pass with the 7018.

    What you have there is something really critical and fast spinning, I would go for
    the $$$ and get the right shaft, you don't want that flying apart or even being unbalanced.

    Cajun
    Last edited by Old Cajun; 05-18-2015 at 01:13 PM.
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    Neil

    2019 4066R with cab (aka Cooterpiller), 2014 997 Z Trak
    Other equip: 1982 IH 274 diesel, 1957 Farmall Cub, Woods Billy Goat 5 foot rotary cutter, Ford three point hitch 6 foot dozer blade,
    home brew dirt and gravel grader, dirt scoop, choppers, Woods six foot belly mount sickle bar, home brew 3PH 25 gallon sprayer, 1992 33 inch cut Snapper
    rear engine rider, 1984 30 inch cut Snapper rear engine rider.

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    Wyobuckaroo's Avatar
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    If you took off the quick hitch and attached directly to the 3pt arms, would it work OK then ???
    If that is all it takes to make it work, a way to save some $....
    It is possible the square shaft and tube are metric...

    Good luck..
    Keep your stick on the ice... Red Green

    The further north you go, the more things that can and want to eat your horse and you. Grandpa Gilbert.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
    Buy one! IMO.
    X....2
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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    I went to a local trucking company , Did a great job for me plus saved about $200.00 .. Check around your area , a machine shop or a trucking company can fix you up and save you some money. The company even had to order in the correct size shaft.
    Gene

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    Bill Berger's Avatar
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    Most folks think, ahhh...it's just a driveshaft.
    BUT! If it isn't balanced exactly right, you're going to have one HECK of a vibration problem, not to mention possibly R&R'ing bearings and yokes in the very near future.
    Good luck.
    The I.R.S. must love poor folks, they create more and more every day.

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    gbnpp05's Avatar
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    One of the experts on here have posted about using one of these before

    Adapter Pto Forged Extender by Speeco for $19.99 : Rural King
    http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/extension-adapter
    Attachment 45618


    •1-3/8 in. female (6-spline) to 1-3/8 in. male (6-spline)
    •5-1/8 in. length. Extends PTO 2-15/16 in.
    Not sure if this one fits the 540 PTO
    Last edited by gbnpp05; 05-18-2015 at 04:08 PM.
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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Good post gbnpp05.
    Keith

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    CyberShanks's Avatar
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    I was just about to recommend the same thing. I just used one a few weekends ago for my tiller. Worked great.

    Also gonna say if I knew a source for the driveshaft rod I would have welded mine up myself. 540 rpm isn't very fast IMO. Ya I wouldn't want to get tangled up in it cause it could kill ya. But, I have seen several off road rigs with square shafts welded up and under a crapload of abuse that hold just fine. Plus they're turning a lot faster. If you keep things straight and can do a consistent weld it should be pretty balanced from the get go. If you can't, then get a new one or the adapter. $.02

    Jim


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