Rut Roh! Jim's been welding again...
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    Jim Timber's Avatar
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    Rut Roh! Jim's been welding again...

    Took today to work on my tilt cylinder.

    Should've gotten a smaller rod cylinder for this, but this one was cheap.



    This is a lift link for the 3-point hitch on the tractor. I got a 7" cylinder and cut it down to 5".



    Then turned a chamfer on the end of the main tube to assist in getting a full depth weld.



    Then cut a shoulder on the top part of the original lift link before cutting the unneeded part was cut off in the bandsaw.



    Then I made a new end cap out of a laser drop I had which was too big, but the right thickness (allowing me to cut off the slot from the laser's pilot hole). So I milled a center plug with a shoulder to fit inside the cylinder end, then put a hole to fit the stub I turned on the factory eye, and welded them together.



    Then I made a bung for the hydraulic fitting.



    Then drilled the cylinder for the fluid passage, and welded it all together.



    Brushed off most of the crispy paint while letting it cool a bit before doing the cap weld.



    Just need to get the bottom end figured out and it'll be ready to go back together and get painted.
    5065E MFWD w/553 loader

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    zyx5432's Avatar
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    Very nice work. Can't wait to see the finished (green?) product.
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    Jim Timber's Avatar
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    Thanks!

    Yep, it'll be green when it goes on the tractor. The orange is just what it came in from Surplus Center. It's a Prince cylinder; I'm not sure why it's orange.

    I'm going to shorten up my top link and paint that green too (it's been black up until now). 12" stroke was a nice idea at the time, but it's just too long to tuck some of my stuff back far enough and it's entirely too long at full extension. That'll probably end up around 9" when I'm done with it.
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    5065E MFWD w/553 loader

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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    Beautiful work, Oh man ,how I wish I could weld.
    Gene

    Have fun and be safe !!!
    USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG 99th ARCOM
    JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54" bucket, 54" mmm Auto Conn, 54" Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48" Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5' rear blade, a new 47" JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater.
    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

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    BigJim55's Avatar
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    good job their Jim Timber, looking good, ahh-green paint--it's wonderful-huh!!!!

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    Old Pa-pa Old Cajun's Avatar
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    Yup, up to your usual good looking work again Jim.
    I wouldn't have the guts to lop off the end of a cylinder and shorten it up and weld it
    back together, you da man!
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    Neil

    2019 4066R with cab (aka Cooterpiller), 2014 997 Z Trak
    Other equip: 1982 IH 274 diesel, 1957 Farmall Cub, Woods Billy Goat 5 foot rotary cutter, Ford three point hitch 6 foot dozer blade,
    home brew dirt and gravel grader, dirt scoop, choppers, Woods six foot belly mount sickle bar, home brew 3PH 25 gallon sprayer, 1992 33 inch cut Snapper
    rear engine rider, 1984 30 inch cut Snapper rear engine rider.

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    Jim Timber's Avatar
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    Thanks guys!

    What's 2750psi of hot liquid spraying all over to be scared of? Just think of the cool scars when they have to surgically remove it from your skin. Ok, so leaky hydraulics is pretty serious stuff, which is why I didn't start off doing this stuff when I had a 120v MIG and half a clue how to use it. Been a while since those days were behind me, and now I just do what I want and hope the engineering holds up to the task.

    The bottom link on these things is perplexing. It saws like cast iron (grey dust), drills like higher carbon (will curl a chip), and sparks like high carbon, but it puddles and welds like mild leaded with TIG, and the arc goes bat-nuts with MIG (had to stick the gun down a hole - you'll see when I get pics).

    So in the sake of safety, I used 308/309 SS filler (I can't read the print on it and it's been 10 years since I bought the stuff) and did one pass to completely attach the flange to the rod and am letting it cool off. My IR thermometer says I got the end link up to around 300F, but the rod was only at 230F. I'm hoping I don't have a freaking crack when I go back out to finish it up. Wouldn't be the end of the world, but I really like how the factory link looks grafted onto the cylinder - almost like it's a JD part.
    5065E MFWD w/553 loader

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    Jim Timber's Avatar
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    No cracks! So I did the second pass and now it's just gotta cool down and it'll be ready to go back together.




    I have some Ni55 rods around here somewhere that would've been a good choice as well (bust off the flux and you can TIG with them just like any other filler), but 308 SS has a higher elasticity than ER70s so it's the "other" go-to for cast repairs/welding.

    I may put the button cap on the torch and see if I can work in the plug weld I did with MIG, but that's yet to be determined. There's not a lot of room in the gap between the two side plates and I'm not sure with the gas lens my #20 torch will have enough space to twirl a puddle even without the long cap. I've got about half an hour to decide (not supposed to let cast get below 100F between passes).


    I don't know what that stuff is. The top part (OD threaded rod end) is some seriously high tensile steel! That stuff's got chromium or something in it. Chattered like a mother when the cutter geometry wasn't absolutely perfect.
    Last edited by Jim Timber; 02-23-2016 at 11:47 PM.
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    Jim Timber's Avatar
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    So the MIG plug weld did end up cracking, which makes me think this really is cast iron of some form (maybe malleable?).



    I switched over to a #5 nozzle without gas lens and tried adding in some SS filler, but all it did was bubble and spit so I gave up with that approach. If it ever cracks off the fillet weld, then I'll just make a steel lower link like everyone else does. Maybe it'll never be an issue. We'll find out in due time.

    I'm pretty happy with my margin on the shoulder fillet. The HAZ in the chrome plating doesn't even reach the wiper.



    With that all buttoned up, it's off to paint!

    5065E MFWD w/553 loader

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    Jim Timber's Avatar
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    The composition of the lower link was bugging me, so I did the chisel test and it's absolutely some form of iron. Now that makes me nervous about my fillet weld in tension holding the weight of the lower link.

    There's plenty of meat in the link's casting - probably at least 1/4" wall thickness around the whole thing. What I'm contemplating is drilling all the way through the link and rod and putting a bolt in there to reduce the stress placed on the weld. Does that seem like a reasonable precautionary solution?
    BigJim55 and Old Cajun like this.
    5065E MFWD w/553 loader

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