Modifying My Box Blade?
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Thread: Modifying My Box Blade?

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    Modifying My Box Blade?

    Love the utility of my box blade and what I can do with it but lately have been pondering the idea of purchasing what JD calls a "land plane" or what others call a "grading scraper." Want them both but lack storage space and finances for awhile. Was curious if I in a sense cut a trap door in rear of my Box Blade, right above the blade that I could easily remove or added(thinking hinge system), in a sense would that give me more results towards the land plane setup?
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    Similar idea

    Quote Originally Posted by whiteasian View Post
    Love the utility of my box blade and what I can do with it but lately have been pondering the idea of purchasing what JD calls a "land plane" or what others call a "grading scraper." Want them both but lack storage space and finances for awhile. Was curious if I in a sense cut a trap door in rear of my Box Blade, right above the blade that I could easily remove or added(thinking hinge system), in a sense would that give me more results towards the land plane setup?
    After reading some of the posts about land planes, I had a similar idea although mine was more along the lines of using the scarifiers to hold a clamp on blade (angle iron) and adding adjustable side pieces if necessary. I don't have a great deal of room front to back so that's a limitation. I'm sure the great minds on this site can think of improvements if they aren't too busy slacking.

    Treefarmer
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiteasian View Post
    Love the utility of my box blade and what I can do with it but lately have been pondering the idea of purchasing what JD calls a "land plane" or what others call a "grading scraper." Want them both but lack storage space and finances for awhile. Was curious if I in a sense cut a trap door in rear of my Box Blade, right above the blade that I could easily remove or added(thinking hinge system), in a sense would that give me more results towards the land plane setup?
    You might check some rental places - I rented a 7ft land plane for $75/day. It's something I'll probably only need once or twice a year, so I'll likely just do that. I am on the lurk for a 7ft box blade, though....
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    The land plane has two cutting edges, not sure how you'd replicate that with a box blade.

    The box blade gets a lot of its rigidity from the solid rear wall, where land planes have heavier steel behind the cutting edges. If you were to modify the box blade I would suggest some bracing between the cutting edges.
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    What is it that you cannot accomplish with your boxblade that is causing you to want to modify it? Maybe we can help you with technique and you will no longer wish for a different design.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Milharri View Post
    What is it that you cannot accomplish with your boxblade that is causing you to want to modify it? Maybe we can help you with technique and you will no longer wish for a different design.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I will admit I'm no professional, not even a every weekend user. I was just thinking by doing so it would help how much gravel I can drag into the box and help with leveling like what the land plane does. Just a way to make it easier to do a gravel road. I realize too every situation is different, just want to be able to set box down and have blade do all the work, grading and leveling, and still keep the box functional for when I want to knock piles down.

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    Quote Originally Posted by whiteasian View Post
    I will admit I'm no professional, not even a every weekend user. I was just thinking by doing so it would help how much gravel I can drag into the box and help with leveling like what the land plane does. Just a way to make it easier to do a gravel road. I realize too every situation is different, just want to be able to set box down and have blade do all the work, grading and leveling, and still keep the box functional for when I want to knock piles down.
    Well, the best, quick advice I can give is this. Always have the rockshaft lever in the fully lowered position. Never allow the tractor to support any of the weight. If you do then whenever you go over a bump it will lift the blade and create bumps of its own. Second, get a hydraulic top link so that you can adjust how much it dogs in on the fly. Just look back at what it's doing while driving and adjust appropriately.

    If you have any other questions or anything don't be hesitant to ask.
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    3046r Cab, H165 w/61" bucket, Frontier 72"BB, MX6, and Woods TCR68" Tiller.

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    I don't think I ever bought from them, but they do have a 99.3% positive feedback on Ebay..If that's the same outfit.

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