Welding question on my 1025R
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    Foggy Bottom's Avatar
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    Welding question on my 1025R

    I'm cutting down the height of my ROPS and need to mock it up on the tractor with a few tack welds. The last time I've welded on a vehicle it had points and condenser. I wonder if unhooking the ground from the battery really will do anything to protect the electronics as they are grounded the the frame already. I plan on placing the ground clap frm my Mig welder as close to the work area as possible since the path of least resistance would favor not running around the tractor.
    I'm probably opening a can of worms up but Googling this didn't really answer my question and the answers from some of the sites had me laughing.
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    If you ground to the ROPs,, there is zero issues,,, IMHO,,,
    Welders are not nuclear weapons with EMP,,,,,
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    theduke's Avatar
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    Probly wouldn't hurt to unhook the battery..
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    Dan


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    Drifterbike's Avatar
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    I would like to see pictures during the process I also want to shorten my rops How much are you cutting out? Thanks
    Marlin likes this.
    2018 2038R 220R FEL, 72" Mower, Radial tires, wheel spacers, dual rear SVCs, CtA grapple, single point for FEL, 60" broom with front hitch;2018 1025R 54"auto connect, HDAP tires, Quick Hitch, Ballast Box, Etc...;1967 1020 3cylinder gas, #47 FEL, 72" Landpride Grooming Mower, 6ft box blade, For Sale(no Hurry); life Member NRA since 1974

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    It's your neck.

    I see lots of posts about modifying ROPS. One or two cautions for those considering cutting, welding, drilling or otherwise modifying. The factory ROPS are designed to do one thing- save your life. I believe they even have to prove that the design and strength are adequate to protect the operator when the operator is belted into the seat. You can surely modify the ROPS but do you have the design and metallurgy chops to make sure you haven't compromised the integrity? The least worry is whether your heirs can successfully sue JD if something happens and the answer is no. Modifying the ROPS will pretty much guarantee JD has a defense.

    It's up to you but I would suggest that before you cut, weld or change a ROPS that at least you get a pretty good engineer to take a look at what you are doing. It's your neck, literally.

    Treefarmer
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    When I bought the 1026r several years ago BIL ,FIL and I wondered how to shorten the ROPS. After much thought, we took the pins out and removed the top part of the ROP. Cut out about a 6 or 8" section , one of us had bought thick wall square tubing that would fit inside the ROPS. After tacking the insert the cut off bottom section slid the top part down over finished welding. We fill the section we worked on is as strong if not stronger than factory .
    All the cutting and welding took place off the tractor. When I bought the 1025r ,, took the top section off new ,installed one from 1026 onto the 1025.
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    While I'd be inclined to disconnect the battery for the sake of it, I wouldn't be scared to weld on the tractor. I've welded, many times, directly on automobiles, with no issue. I've also welded on our skid steer, my old B7100, dad's 5065e, and his old NH3930. No issues.
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    Foggy Bottom's Avatar
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    TreeFarmer.. I understand cutting the ROPS negates the intended designed safety of the tractor. However, I worked part time as a farmer for many years on tractors that never had ROPS and didn't have any issues. ROPS are on there to appease the attorney happy owners that hurt themselves doing something the device wasn't made for. I had a stress engineer review the design currently being used and in a perfect roll over it will work with some deformities to the structure but in other less then desirable cases it would fold over and fail. It actual needs to be cross braced and than it couldn't be folded down.
    I bought a completely new ROPS kit (only way JD sells them) so IF I were to sell the tractor all I do is pull four pins and reinstall the factory height piece back on. No harm no foul.
    I take your concern and others seriously but feel my end design will be stronger and safer and able to drive into my garage without folding it down. This modification is for me and not for anyone else.

    I'd like to see a straw poll done as to how many owners actually take the time to put them up. Based on the five tractors in my area (Green, Orange and Red) I'm the only one that routinely puts it up and hit the garage door
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    Quote Originally Posted by Foggy Bottom View Post
    TreeFarmer.. I understand cutting the ROPS negates the intended designed safety of the tractor. However, I worked part time as a farmer for many years on tractors that never had ROPS and didn't have any issues. ROPS are on there to appease the attorney happy owners that hurt themselves doing something the device wasn't made for. I had a stress engineer review the design currently being used and in a perfect roll over it will work with some deformities to the structure but in other less then desirable cases it would fold over and fail. It actual needs to be cross braced and than it couldn't be folded down.
    I bought a completely new ROPS kit (only way JD sells them) so IF I were to sell the tractor all I do is pull four pins and reinstall the factory height piece back on. No harm no foul.
    I take your concern and others seriously but feel my end design will be stronger and safer and able to drive into my garage without folding it down. This modification is for me and not for anyone else.

    I'd like to see a straw poll done as to how many owners actually take the time to put them up. Based on the five tractors in my area (Green, Orange and Red) I'm the only one that routinely puts it up and hit the garage door
    For your straw poll....


    Mine only goes down to clear obstacles other than that its up. I'm not overly tall but if I took more than 4 or so inches out my head would hit the ground instead of the ROPS. I fully understand why people are doing this and I applaud the decision to have a Factory height one available if sold.

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    JD-Don's Avatar
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    Foggy

    To answer your question, as I just modified my cross over tube and posted yesterday, I did some welding on the tractor without disconnecting anything and I have no problems. My post title is 2032R ROPS mod cut and weld.

    Good luck with your mod. J-D Don
    JD 2032R Tractor #130 FEL / 61' scoop, JD #261 rear grooming mower, JD #403 brush hog, JD#550 rototiller, JD# 50A box scraper, JD#7 Back hoe adapted to 2032R, York Rake 6' / wheels, JD 935/ heated cabJD 4' snow blower/Hyd. chute, JD 6' grooming mower, JD 125 mower/bagger, JD 650 Tractor/FEL (sold), Agri-Fab Chip-N-Vac 8 HP, Equipment trailer 7000 LB. GVWR

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