You know what really grinds my gears? - Page 631
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  1. Top | #6301
    mjncad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Longhandle View Post
    Not grinding my gears so much as just slipping my clutch....So I’m cleaning up in the shop from the last few days of playing outside and I need to put away the paperwork from the roller I bought. I’m too lazy to copy the numbers and whatnot, so I just cut the info off the side of the box. That’s when I realized I had been exposed to the risk of getting cancer from a lawn roller....
    What should I do now?
    I am so sick of seeing Proposition 65 warnings, California 'Clean Idle' stickers, Supply Chain (anti human trafficking) notices, etc courtesy of Colonfornia. We all pay for that crap, and the vast majority of the nation doesn't live in the Golden Showers State.

    Quote Originally Posted by RodW View Post
    Stay away from California...
    The best advice to all sane people! Sometimes I end my rants to Colonrado's legislators with, "D.A.D. = Deport All Democrats...to Colonfornia."
    I have more ideas than ambition.


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  3. Top | #6302
    pappa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RodW View Post
    Stay away from California...
    Sound advice..................we have enough idiots here!
    2320 200cx loader, 46 backhoe, 54"snowblower, original cab, Titan 42" forks, welded on hooks by neighbor.

  4. Top | #6303
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    Talking to my insurance agents assistant

    Even with GTT giving compelling advice against it, I have many people requesting to hire my tractor. I called my agent, he’s rarely in the office so I get one of his 2 assistants. We’ve been with this agent for 20+ years so I have an idea that it will be a grinds my gears discussion.

    We’re discussing use and the coverage to best suit me, when the gear grinding occurs.
    Agent assistant “what do you think the value is for replacing your equipment?”
    Me “$20 thou...gets interrupted “
    AA “I don’t know why everyone thinks their lawn mower is worth $20000!”
    Me “Well because I paid $18,700 for a real tractor which happens to mow grass, and the attachments aren’t cheap either. It’s a 2017 JD 1025R”
    AA “let me check with some other people” puts me on hold for 15 minutes.

    AA “the regional office recommends a minimum of $20k, but thinks $23-25k is better”.
    2017 JD 1025R
    120R Loader, 60” MMM, Howse 4’ box blade, Turfvent 3pt aerator, Titan ballast box, homebuilt lawn roller/packer, CID (Construction Implement Depot) quick attach pallet forks, 14’ homebuilt 10k flatbed trailer

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  6. Top | #6304
    mjncad's Avatar
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    I've had similar discussions with insurance agents from a variety of companies over the years when it comes to getting quotes as to what is and isn't covered, etc. Granted, insurance companies insure more KIA's than Deere compact tractors; but why is it so damn hard for them to figure out how to cover a tractor and for how much? It's not like I'm asking them to quote me a policy for insurance on a Russian made bulldozer.
    I have more ideas than ambition.


  7. Top | #6305

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    Insurance value

    [QUOTE=mjncad;3259410]I've had similar discussions with insurance agents from a variety of companies over the years when it comes to getting quotes as to what is and isn't covered, etc. Granted, insurance companies insure more KIA's than Deere compact tractors; but why is it so damn hard for them to figure out how to cover a tractor and for how much? It's not like I'm asking them to quote me a policy for insurance on a Russian made bulldozer.[/QUOTE

    I was in a meeting Monday night where this was a prime topic of discussion. We've got folks who are in the insurance business on GTT but I'll throw in my 2 cents worth.

    It's up to the owner to set the level of insurance and to modify it as conditions change. Usually values go down but they can go up. However, somewhere in the fine print of your contract which I'm sure we all read word for word every year, is a phrase that basically says it's up to the insurance company to pay either the fair replacement cost of your tractor or the policy limits, whichever is less.

    It's possible that there is another clause that says the company will pay for a new tractor under certain conditions rather than the replacement value but replacement value is more standard. So in a simple real world situation, you decide how much insurance you want, say $20,000. Your tractor burns up due to a covered accident. (Covered accident is another important term. Not all losses are going to be covered.) If the company finds out that you can replace your tractor with a similar tractor with similar hours, accessories, condition etc. for $15,000, that's what you are going to get paid. You don't get the $20,000 even though you've paid for $20,000 of coverage.

    On the other hand, if it costs $25,000 to replace your tractor, you are only going to get $20,000 because that's the policy limit. The rest is up to you.

    As an owner, you want enough insurance but not too much because the extra amount doesn't help you. As an agent, you want a little bit extra not only because the extra premium puts a little more in your commission check but if there is a claim, you don't want your customer mad because they are under insured. As a company, you want the insured to be over insured because they are paying premium for coverage that won't be used. That's profitable and allows the company to pay claims without quibbling over exact values, because the company has received extra .

    In most of my insurance, I try to set as high of a deductible as I think I can stand to lower the premium. Then I try to set the policy limits close to what might be needed. Some policies, particularly homeowners have a provision that if you insure for up to a certain percentage of the value of the home, say 80%, if you have a claim the policy will cover the increased value. If you have one of those policies, you want to make sure you are over that trigger level.

    Remember, insurance companies pay by the wording on the contract, not what you think your heard from the agent. If you really want to know what you are covered for, first read the contract in detail, make notes and questions and then sit down with your agent and ask questions. Write down or record the agent's answers and keep that information in a safe place. Between the contract and the documentation of the agent's answers, you will have a very good idea of what is actually covered and for how much if you ever need to file a claim. If that's too much trouble and it is a lot of trouble, then pay the premium and hope you are covered.

    Treefarmer
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  9. Top | #6306
    WifeSaidOK's Avatar
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    What recently grinds me regarding insurance companies is the pricing.
    I have been with Liberty Mutual for several years, for both homeowners and autos. During that time my then teenage son had a wreck, and 2 years later my wife also did. I figured the rates would go up, and they did. But with the teenage son on the policy, it was quite expensive. I thought it would be the same with any company. Fast forward to last December. My son bought his own car, and got his own insurance, so he is no longer listed on our insurance. Auto policy went down ~$1k/ year. Good deal, right?
    In April I got a call from the Allstate rep who I have my snowmobile insured under, asking if they could give me a quote for homeowners and auto. I was shocked at the price difference.

    By switching to Allstate, I saved $1600/year on the auto, and almost $1000/year on the homeowners.
    Auto policy went from $3400/year to $1800/year
    Homeowners went from $1800/year to $800/year
    So how is it possible to have the exact same coverage and have completely different rates?
    mjncad, DRobinson, Tomfive and 9 others like this.
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  10. Top | #6307
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    So I DON’T like Jiffylube! I’ve had nothing but bad service there and will not use them. Last year, I take my truck to another local oil change place with “good reviews”. I tell the kid behind the counter to just give me an oil change and no leaks afterward. I looked into his eyes and expressed how serious I was to scarify him a little if needed. A day later my truck was puking oil ( synthetic). Luckily there was a auto parts store nearby, and after some investigation, they never replaced the o rings on the filter cartridge casing. Newer vehicles now have cartridges that insert in a plastic housing that uses o ring seals. You know how the saying goes: always replace the o rings that come with the filters. After a quart or so of oil and troubleshooting, new o rings did the trick. I called there and the manager said he insists they all do t, and if I want to bring the truck back in, they will replace the o rings... I said I already did it, along with some oil, and a reimbursement would suffice for now. He said they don’t do that, and only are allowed to do work fixes. I left it at that and planned on using the dealership from there forward. Fast forward to this year. My truck needs another oil change. I recently moved, so I take my truck to the local dealership, explain how I was fed up with oil change joints, what happened, and I want it done right. A day after, my truck was puking oil...same scenario, o rings. I replaced them, and it stopped. Marched into the dealership with receipts and told them what happened, and she refunded me the money I spent on the fix, and gave me a free oil change next time and the techs will get a talking to. Just because the o rings look good, don’t put them back in. The heat of the metals they are in contact with for months on end will flat spot them, so replace o rings, don’t throw the old ones back in. Damn kids! That’s where and all the trainees are made to work weekends and I get sub par service. I know, I know. Then change my own oil, well, it’s a write off also documented oil changes keeps the warranty people happy. 30 years ago, that kind of service would be rare, but not anymore. The consequences of someone debockling an oil change are barely a slap on the wrist. My day, I’d get fired for that
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  11. Top | #6308

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kbar View Post
    30 years ago, that kind of service would be rare, but not anymore. The consequences of someone debockling an oil change are barely a slap on the wrist. My day, I’d get fired for that
    Prepare for it to get worse.
    The current crop of tit suckers don't have the ambition to clean up after a wet fart!
    It baffles me that we are fine with these dolts preparing our food.
    mjncad, pappa, farmgirl19 and 11 others like this.

  12. Top | #6309
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    Another Win 10 Update

    For the last few days, my laptop has been VERY lethargic, meaning that every time I go back to it, the mouse gets jumpy for the first half minute or so, then becomes responsive again. When I open new programs or web pages, it has been really slow, then seems to speed up again. It happens every time Win 10 updates in the "background".

    I just got a chance to research it and YEP, Win 10 has launched a new Win 10 update, rolled out in late April 2019 (known as update 1903 ... I think).

    Apparently in Pro and Enterprise, you can delay the update but not in the Home version.

    I can also expect it to slow down my other computers too.

    My problem is slow broadband speed, which makes the download part of the update take a boatload of time. I may just leave my laptop idling overnight to get the update download done with.

    So that's what grinding my gears today.
    mjncad, pappa, farmgirl19 and 8 others like this.
    Tom

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  13. Top | #6310
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomfive View Post
    For the last few days, my laptop has been VERY lethargic, meaning that every time I go back to it, the mouse gets jumpy for the first half minute or so, then becomes responsive again. When I open new programs or web pages, it has been really slow, then seems to speed up again. It happens every time Win 10 updates in the "background".

    I just got a chance to research it and YEP, Win 10 has launched a new Win 10 update, rolled out in late April 2019 (known as update 1903 ... I think).

    Apparently in Pro and Enterprise, you can delay the update but not in the Home version.

    I can also expect it to slow down my other computers too.

    My problem is slow broadband speed, which makes the download part of the update take a boatload of time. I may just leave my laptop idling overnight to get the update download done with.

    So that's what grinding my gears today.
    I have to do that with out old laptop if I want to use it. I turn it on and just let it sit for a day or overnight and let it do it’s thing. However, there are some updates that only continue with a manual restart it seems - so I still have to babysit it some and click the power menu once in a while to see if it says “update and restart” instead of just “restart”.

    I only use it now for my ForScan application which lets me fiddle with my truck’s settings. But Mrs. C may want to use it now that she is stuck downstairs for the next week or so (our PCs are upstairs in our home office).

    I’ve had an iPad for a few years now. When it does need an update it seems so much smoother. As I have said earlier if my PC dies I won’t replace it. I am getting more and more used to doing everything on my iPad but still like to use my PC at times. I will entertain an Apple laptop when the time comes but they seem to be quite expensive. Just maybe get one of the big a$$ iPads at that point.
    ~Stan~
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