Lauan Hollow core door.
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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    Lauan Hollow core door.

    Alright, we had a damaged door over at our church . This door was custom installed ,by me , because it isn't a 6'8" H but 63 3/4" H.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	141537 Here is the cut off door beside the original door ,yes they are the same height just not from the angle I took the picture.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    At a home improvement store you can just buy a door , without hinges or door jam or prehung . So the door needs to be cut off . Measure and mark the door , then take a sharp knife and cut thru the outer layer of lauan . Turn the door over and door the same thing.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    If you don't and you use a hand saw or power saw with a fine cut you will splinter out one side of the door. .
    Click image for larger version. 

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    As you're cutting the door , I used a clamp to hold up the cut side as I was cutting across the door.
    Once you get to the end of door, then hold that side so you don't splinter underside of the door.

    Now you have the bottom of the door cut off , and you can see how your door is constructed inside. Click image for larger version. 

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    As you can see it is hollow with a cardboard type material glued in place giving some support or strength to the door.Click image for larger version. 

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    Now you have a choice , either cut a board to fit inside this door, or remove the board from the bottom of the piece you just cut off. I chose to cut the piece I just cut off , At the bottom of the door (or piece just cut off) apx 1 1/2 -2" up this piece of wood you need is up inside the door.
    I cut the bottom part of the door off .Click image for larger version. 

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    Now you need to remove the lauan finish glued on at the factory to the front and inside of the doorClick image for larger version. 

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    This piece of wood with the layer of lauan are glued but not all that hard to remove . I used a chisel and light tack hammer to remove the layer of lauan.
    Once the piece is free of the lauan , take your chisel to or long utility knife to cut the glued pieces inside the door and bend the cardbord material enough to allow your piece of wood to fit inside the bottom part of the door you need.Click image for larger version. 

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    Before starting I had both doors laying of their side and even (or square) at the tops. Removed the hinges made sure the outside of door was against the back of the other door. Or both good sides was (one with hole) and good side of new door pointed the way . I then marked the location for the hinges with square , and utility knife. Tool a chisel marked the outer side of the hinge ,then made cuts like a shutter in the location of the hinge.Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	141489 . The depth of the cut is the height of your hinge. The top of hinge should be smooth with outer edge of your door.

    I didn't show , but the other edge of the door ,has a door keeper, the other part the lockset is on the door still at the church.

    The door still needs to be sanded , then stained , hardware installed and then taken to the church.

    Hope this gives a idea of what the inside of most doors or in most of our homes. Doesn't matter if door is smooth like this one, a panel door . Most are hollow core. Yes you can buy a solid wood door , but most of the contractors don't use them because of the cost.
    Last edited by etcallhome; 03-02-2016 at 03:47 PM.
    Gene

    Have fun and be safe !!!
    USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG 99th ARCOM
    JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54" bucket, 54" mmm Auto Conn, 54" Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48" Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5' rear blade, a new 47" JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater.
    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to etcallhome For This Useful Post:

    Jeff R. (03-06-2016)

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by etcallhome View Post
    If you don't and you use a hand saw or power saw with a fine cut you will splinter out one side of the door. .
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Applying masking tape to the cut and cutting right through the tape will help also.
    Nice job.
    Keith

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    tj1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
    Applying masking tape to the cut and cutting right through the tape will help also.
    Nice job.
    That's a good hint Keith, the masking tape does work and keeps saw marks if you use a power saw (you need to cover enough luan with tape to cover the base of the saw) from scratching the luan but you may still get some splintering on the luan. I hated hollow core doors but it is inevitable that you will at some point in time need to cut one. The utility knife is a great idea and you will not splinter the door as long as you stay on the cut side (or throw away side) of the line with the saw,, That's the important part, you leave the line plus a little more and when you get the rail or wooden piece back in the door and glued in place you sand the door to the line with a belt sander, with finesse not go hog wild, (you can still splinter the luan with a sander),, then finish the sanding off by hand with fine sand paper with a very sight round over edge, you will never splinter the door using this method.. I never let any of my guys cut a door right on the measured line,, leave a little for the sander.. nice job by the way ET. I have respect for anyone using a hand saw in this day and age,, My hand saws are still as sharp as the day they were made.. I use them all the time. different points and different sets for different applications.. and I sharpen and set them myself...
    Jeff

    X 738 4X4/ 54" mower deck, 47" two stage snow thrower/ linear actuator spout control, Curtis hard side cab/heater, JD roof top LED work lights, Curtis fuse block, rear roof light connected to dash light switch and reverse lights, additional 20amp alternator, Curtis fast Cast 2000 sander custom fitted to tractor/ vibrator for use with dry sand, Kubota L39 TLB, JD 450 E dozer, Husky 18 horse/ 48" mower deck/Berco 42" two stage snow thrower/Berco soft side cab, Kubota RTV500-H.

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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jefftaylor View Post
    That's a good hint Keith, the masking tape does work and keeps saw marks if you use a power saw (you need to cover enough luan with tape to cover the base of the saw) from scratching the luan but you may still get some splintering on the luan. I hated hollow core doors but it is inevitable that you will at some point in time need to cut one. The utility knife is a great idea and you will not splinter the door as long as you stay on the cut side (or throw away side) of the line with the saw,, That's the important part, you leave the line plus a little more and when you get the rail or wooden piece back in the door and glued in place you sand the door to the line with a belt sander, with finesse not go hog wild, (you can still splinter the luan with a sander),, then finish the sanding off by hand with fine sand paper with a very sight round over edge, you will never splinter the door using this method.. I never let any of my guys cut a door right on the measured line,, leave a little for the sander.. nice job by the way ET. I have respect for anyone using a hand saw in this day and age,, My hand saws are still as sharp as the day they were made.. I use them all the time. different points and different sets for different applications.. and I sharpen and set them myself...
    Thanks for catching my omitting after using the utility knife on both sides of door ,to Cut On The Throw Away side of the door.
    Dad being a finish carpenter taught me years ago. Masking tape helps but for me I never felt comfortable cutting a door with a power saw.
    Gene

    Have fun and be safe !!!
    USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG 99th ARCOM
    JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54" bucket, 54" mmm Auto Conn, 54" Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48" Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5' rear blade, a new 47" JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater.
    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

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    Old Pa-pa Old Cajun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by etcallhome View Post
    Alright, we had a damaged door over at our church . This door was custom installed ,by me , because it isn't a 6'8" H but 63 3/4" H.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCN2315.JPG 
Views:	19 
Size:	802.8 KB 
ID:	141537 Here is the cut off door beside the original door ,yes they are the same height just not from the angle I took the picture.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCN2316.JPG 
Views:	17 
Size:	782.3 KB 
ID:	141545

    Replaced the door just for that little ding, Old Cajun sees an excellent place to put some type of sign and call that good enough.
    Neil

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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Cajun View Post
    Replaced the door just for that little ding, Old Cajun sees an excellent place to put some type of sign and call that good enough.
    Had that suggestion by a few members. come on ,,,I needed something to do,
    Gizmo2, grnspot110, Levi and 2 others like this.
    Gene

    Have fun and be safe !!!
    USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG 99th ARCOM
    JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54" bucket, 54" mmm Auto Conn, 54" Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48" Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5' rear blade, a new 47" JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater.
    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

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    nice but why not a new solid pine door

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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danmorea View Post
    nice but why not a new solid pine door
    Mainly the cost, of 5-10 times higher than the hollow core door.
    Gizmo2 and tj1 like this.
    Gene

    Have fun and be safe !!!
    USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG 99th ARCOM
    JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54" bucket, 54" mmm Auto Conn, 54" Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48" Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5' rear blade, a new 47" JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater.
    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

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    tj1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Cajun View Post
    Replaced the door just for that little ding, Old Cajun sees an excellent place to put some type of sign and call that good enough.
    I love it Neil, you are one funny guy! I had a guy on my crew that thought just like this, He had more ideas on how to get out of work than Carter has little liver pills!
    Et, please do a pic after the door has been installed and stained or coated.. Nice to see a project through to it's end... Now I sound like a shop teacher! Be good... Jeff
    etcallhome, Gizmo2 and grnspot110 like this.
    Jeff

    X 738 4X4/ 54" mower deck, 47" two stage snow thrower/ linear actuator spout control, Curtis hard side cab/heater, JD roof top LED work lights, Curtis fuse block, rear roof light connected to dash light switch and reverse lights, additional 20amp alternator, Curtis fast Cast 2000 sander custom fitted to tractor/ vibrator for use with dry sand, Kubota L39 TLB, JD 450 E dozer, Husky 18 horse/ 48" mower deck/Berco 42" two stage snow thrower/Berco soft side cab, Kubota RTV500-H.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Cajun View Post
    Replaced the door just for that little ding, Old Cajun sees an excellent place to put some type of sign and call that good enough.
    Now, Old Cajun, that suggestion is starting to concern some of us that you are taking the slacking career too seriously.........
    etcallhome, Gizmo2, Levi and 1 others like this.

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