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Se seat mod for the 2520

37K views 49 replies 20 participants last post by  glc 
#1 ·
I did this mod to my 2520 last January when it was new. Off the trailer,right into the garage,factory seat removed. I'm sure this will work for the 2320 and the 2720 also. I didn't realize until I took the seat out of its box that the dealer had included the "Attaching Parts Kit" at no extra charge. I got the seat for a really good price too,(400.00) so I kind of lucked out a little bit.
As for the entire kit,it isn't needed. I found out later,that the two rails outlined in orange are all that is needed.
Their numbers are: M148651 and M148647. I think they are in the neighborhood of 70.00 for the pair.
The first and second pics are what comes with the kit. The third pic shows the original seat sliders. They are unbolted,that's why the one is leaning.The fourth pic is the seat bracket that bolts to the sliders.
Greg
 

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#2 ·
The first pic shows what I'm going to remove. I shouldn't have too much trouble,there is only those two small circular welds and the two small beads. I'll drill through the holes and use a cutoff wheel on the beads.
The two pieces on the new seat shown in the middle pic,is all I'll need to use. In the last pic,I'm holding the seat bracket. It's hard to tell from the pic,but I need another 3/8" on each side,so the brackets on the new seat end up on the outside of the bracket I'm holding. If I can't hold those seat brackets in the mill vise,I'm sure I can die grind 3/8",so as to make a slot and slide the brackets out to give me the necessary 3/4".

Greg
 

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#3 ·
Seat is on the tractor
First pic shows the tractor slider bracket with piece removed.
Second pic shows the seat brackets and seat installed on tractor.
Third pic shows the material I removed from each bracket.
I slotted the seat brackets on the mill as much as possible,but I still couldn't get enough distance to put the seat brackets on the outside of the slider bracket. I ended up with about a 5/8" long slot.
I figured what would be wrong with putting the seat brackets on the inside. I had to take a bit of material from around the front of the eyes on the new brackets so they would clear the slider bracket when tilting. It wasn't a big deal. The only other mod was what is shown in the third pic. That wasn't much work either. The rod that holds the seat to the bracket is longer than it needs to be now,being the brackets are inward more than the stock seat. I will just leave it be. I think I'll add a piece of rubber under the seat so there is ever so slight of a gap between the mating surfaces of the seat and slider brackets.
One other thing that needs attention is the cluster of wires directly behind the seat,because when you slide the seat all the way back you can hear it pushing against them.
The seat mod went alot better than I anticipated. If anyone is thinking of doing this,seriously consider using the brackets from the kit.It sure made it easy and saved alot of time having to fabricate something.
Sorry I didn't take separate pics of what I did to each seat bracket. I was in a hurry to get it on the tractor. My bad
Yeah,it's overpriced (what isn't that has John Deere on the box),but I think it's well worth it in the long run.Ooooh man,is it ever nice to sit on!
Greg
 

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#4 ·
Seeing and reading what so many members do to help each other out with tips, ideas, procedures, projects, modifications or whatever it might be,I decided to give something too.
I have gained much knowledge in the little time I've been here,I figured it wouldn't be too much trouble to take a few pictures and type a few words to give a little back. If this helps just one person who is thinking of this seat for their tractor,then it was well worth it.
Greg
 
#6 ·
Thanks Greg-That was well said. Thank you for posting the seat project-as you well know I am VERY jealous of it!:cray:
 
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#5 ·
I thought I would add a few more pics for those with the 23,25,and 2720.
The seat does slide back as far as possible,but there again the back is alot more meatier too,so it won't go quite as far as factory.
As for the seat sitting higher on the tractor,there is no way around this.As you can tell,it is much thicker (cross section wise) than the factory seat. If you look at the top of the seat back in relation to the hazard lights,the factory seat is 1/3 maybe halfway up the light assembly,where the suspension seat is at the top of the light. If you are a large person,it may be difficult getting in and out of the seat,but then again,it would be how much do really want this seat.
This seat is worth every penny and then some!
They are finally offering this on the new 2305 replacement,who knows,maybe it's right around the corner for the 23,25,and 2720.

If anyone needs more info or pictures,please feel free to email me.

Greg
 

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#8 ·
Hi, why did you mod a new seat? I know mine is getting shot and will require some serious action soon. I remember when buying mine back in 02'? I really wanted some larger model which had this remarkable air ride? Is this that type of suspension? I hate the springy/bottoming out type I have....
 
#9 ·
I can't speak for GLC, but one reason I bought the 1026R was for the seat. Now if this or any tractor I bought did not have a seat that was comfortable to me, Then I would have changed it like GLC did.:good2:
So maybe this answers your question.:drinks:
Jeff
 
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#12 ·
They are definitely a step up from the 1026R seat, but they come at a price. Not cheap !

If you ever get to the dealer and sit on one of the X7 series special edition tractors you will know what I mean

The 1026R seat is a big improvement over the one on my 2305 though.
 
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#15 ·
Bump. :bye:

This is a great thread for those thinking about their factory seat on the 2320, 2520, & 2720. :good2:
 
#17 ·
Let's face it . . . a tractor is supposed to ride like a tractor . . . not a glorified lawn mower. At least that's what I always tell myself when I get airborne.

:gaah:
 
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#18 ·
Let's face it . . . a tractor is supposed to ride like a tractor . . . not a glorified lawn mower. At least that's what I always tell myself when I get airborne.

:gaah:
And who said THAT? You been talking to my wife?:lol:
 
#21 ·
I realize I'm pulling a thread up from way back, but instead of hashing through what has already been done by glc I thought I would just take it from here.

I've decided my next "handicap" mod to my 2520 is a suspension seat. I see there are 2 ways to go with this - the Deere SE seat as done in this thread or the Michigan seat as shown in a thread on a different forum (mods - if you don't want this like here just delete).

2520 suspension seat?????

I've studied both seat mods. First looking at cost, I'm going to list here - more for my own benefit of keeping track - the end cost of each seat:

Deere SE seat BM21490 - $548
Deere M148651 rail - $48
Deere M148647 rail - $48
Total parts - $644 (less 5% discount and free shipping from GFP) = $612

According to glc's post above this is all the parts I should need.

Option 2 is the Michigan seat with an custom adapter plate as shown in the link:

Michigan seat - $330 + $40 shipping = $370
Custom plate - (??) going to guess it would be ~$100 to have this made (?)
Total parts - $470

That comes to a difference of $142. While aesthetics aren't paramount, the yellow Deere seat would sure look nice - if I am going to spend (save up) the money I will likely opt for the Deere seat.

Now, the big question. I read in glc's posts of using a mill and doing some metal fabrication work to make the SE seat work. This part causes me to pause as I don't have that ability. I need something that is basically plug & play or which I can bolt up with only some drilling and grinding if necessary.

Even though this thread is old, I see that glc is still frequently posting so I am hoping he can help me out here - or anyone else of course.

Thanks
 
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#46 ·
Deere SE seat BM21490 no longer available part, the replacement is listed below for $850!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


John Deere Optional Air-Ride Suspension Seat - BM24379

I've studied both seat mods. First looking at cost, I'm going to list here - more for my own benefit of keeping track - the end cost of each seat:

Deere SE seat BM21490 - $548
Deere M148651 rail - $48
Deere M148647 rail - $48
Total parts - $644 (less 5% discount and free shipping from GFP) = $612

According to glc's post above this is all the parts I should need.

Option 2 is the Michigan seat with an custom adapter plate as shown in the link:

Michigan seat - $330 + $40 shipping = $370
Custom plate - (??) going to guess it would be ~$100 to have this made (?)
Total parts - $470
 
#22 ·
IIRC, the only difference between the SE seat and the MI seat is the color, logo, and price.
 
#24 ·
Stan,
The fellow's mod on TBN is definitely the better way to keep the cost down. I didn't want a black seat and I wanted the install to look a bit cleaner. Kind of a factory look so to speak.
As Kenny posted the black/yellow seats are made exactly the same made by the same manufacturer, Michigan Seat.

Hope you get your seat mod accomplished. It is amazing how much better it feels. I have yet to have a sore butt.:) Regardless of how many hours of seat time.
Simply awesome!:good2:
 
#25 ·
Thanks for the info Greg. I'm going to keep an eye out for a sale or deal on a seat for now. I want to do this before mowing season starts (~3rd week of April).

The combination of the R4 loaded tires, a mowing area that is more or less once a field, and the RA make it so I can only stand about 20 minutes at a time on the tractor. This looks like a very worthwhile mod for me along with my awesome new step.
 
#26 ·
Greg,

I have a request if you don't mind. I'm pretty much set on getting the Michigan seat, but have a question about the change in seat height after the change.

Is it possible for you to measure the distance from the top of the seat bottom with you sitting on it to a known object below? I'm trying to get a feel for how much higher I would be riding in the new seat and would like to compare your measurement against mine right now with the stock seat.

Thanks!
 
#27 ·
It would also be good to know if the raised bottom cushion on the SE seat position crowds you due to the fixed steering wheel position.
 
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#31 ·
Greg - don't worry about taking any measurements or pics. Like you said I can get a good idea from the one pic you posted showing the relationship to the fender levers. I'm just going to print that one out and compare it to mine.

And I have a Michigan seat on the way. Found a half decent deal on a NOS seat that is missing the original packaging - should be here next week. Now I have to decide on which method for the installation. Since I can't make the adapter plate myself I may just go with the rails like you did. I'm hoping I can modify them enough with what tools I have - drill, grinder, etc. Also want to look at the 2 methods to see if either is going to make the seat ride higher than the other.

I'm really excited to be doing this seat change!
 
#32 · (Edited)
Thought I would update - received the seat, and while holding my breath (while taking pics) while unpacking it, I found the one seat rail bent (mounting point). I really wasn't surprised after reading all the reviews on Northern Tool and Amazon. It seems the seats are all packaged poorly and it is quite common for the seat rails to get bent during transit. I negotiated with the seller who was more than accommodating and agreed to a decent partial credit instead of my having to try to ship it back.

Wow - this seat is heavy! I am really impressed by how well it is made.

This is going to be a spring project - I just can't work out in the barn even with the space heater. Besides - in the time between when the weather warms up and the start of mowing season I am always wanting for something to do. I still have to decide which method I want to use to mount the seat but have plenty of time for that.

I'll post a new thread and pics when I get to the installation.

Thanks Greg and all for your help!

Vehicle
 
#33 ·
Well, I helped member Jim Frits out and took the JD Deluxe seat off his hands: http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sale/20537-special-edition-weight-adjustable-suspension-seat-sale.html

We shipped it via Fastenal from Springfield, MO to Littleton, MA for $50. About 1/2 of what UPS would have charged based on the size and weight of the box. It arrived in a few days. Took me about three days to unpack it. If you ever want to ship something to the moon and back without any damage have Jim pack it for you. Only kidding but he did a great job of carefully wrapping everything individually.

Followed the instructions posted earlier in this thread.

  • Took the original seat off the 2320 by removing the long rod that hinges at the front of the seat. Disconnected the seat switch.
  • Unbolted the bracket for the rubber bump stops. My bump stop bracket wasn't spot welded to the original seat base frame.
  • Removed the seat rails from beneath the JD Deluxe seat and attempted to fit them to the hinge rod and the original base frame. Had to drill out the front holes on the Deluxe rails to 3/8" to fit the long rod.
  • Marked the vertical flanges on the Deluxe seat rails for about a 2 1/2" notch to sit over the rear cross brace of the base frame bracket where the bump stop bracket was previously located. Used an air powered abrasive cutting disk to make a nice clean cutout to clear the bracket. Cleaned up any sharp edges with a fine file.
  • Used some nylon windlace edging on the inner edge of the Deluxe seat rail bracket notch to prevent any metal to metal contact between the rails and the lower base frame.
  • Transferred the seat switch from the original 2320 seat to the new Deluxe seat.
  • Bolted the under seat rails to the outer position on each side of the Deluxe seat.
  • Reinstalled the Deluxe seat using the original long hinge rod and a 1/4" thick 3/8" I.D. spacer between each seat rail and the original seat base.

About an hour later........

Motor vehicle Vehicle Green Yellow Tractor
Land vehicle Vehicle Motor vehicle Yellow Green
 
#37 ·
Stan,

I was going to suggest that you could send your Deluxe seat brackets and I'd fab them up for you. Just checked JD parts and the seat bases are different between the 2320 & 2520 though. IF you want to remove your brackets and mark them for notches I'd be happy to assist. It's a 15 minute job with the right tools.

Frank
 
#36 ·
Works good! The lower seat cushion is about 1" higher than stock. With the weight adjustment set at 180# the lower cushion is at full height but when I hit a bump in the yard the internal suspension absorbs it. The rear seat back adjustment is nice and I have the lumbar support maxed out. The full range of fore and aft adjustment of the original base frame is retained. With the seat all the way back the rear seat back still has ~1" clearance to the cab vertical supports. I'll probably have to fine tune the various adjustments. This is a very nice seat!

  • Internal scissors type suspension is weight adjustable
  • Rear seat back angle is adjustable
  • Rear seat back has an adjustable internal lumbar support
  • Both arms rests are easily adjustable for angle and height.
 
#43 ·
Air Ride for 2025R

Like you I was not pleased with the MCUT seat.
It didn't take long to recognize the limitations of John Deere's seat assembly on the 2025R.
The Forest Service Trails we work are rough as a cobb.
Jeep roads to reach our trailheads are worse.
So I replaced the hard rubber (incompressible) bumpers for real air ride springs.
See photos below.
The final assembly was one inch taller than stock.
So I cut the pivot point bracket and added an inch filler to raise the front of the seat to match the air spring height at the rear.
I carry a 12 volt micro air pump in the tool kit.
I set the air pressure at 7 psi for my 300 pound butt, while my wife prefers just 4 psi.
With R4 rear tires set at 10 psi, the ride is hardly Cadillac, but it's far improved over stock.
John Hesslink
 

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#44 ·
Like you I was not pleased with the MCUT seat.
It didn't take long to recognize the limitations of John Deere's seat assembly on the 2025R.
The Forest Service Trails we work are rough as a cobb.
Jeep roads to reach our trailheads are worse.
So I replaced the hard rubber (incompressible) bumpers for real air ride springs.
See photos below.
The final assembly was one inch taller than stock.
So I cut the pivot point bracket and added an inch filler to raise the front of the seat to match the air spring height at the rear.
I carry a 12 volt micro air pump in the tool kit.
I set the air pressure at 7 psi for my 300 pound butt, while my wife prefers just 4 psi.
With R4 rear tires set at 10 psi, the ride is hardly Cadillac, but it's far improved over stock.
John Hesslink
This is an awsome alternative to the expensive seat change. I put a Michigan suspension seat on mine but really struggled with the installation. But in the end, along with also running 10psi in the rears made a world of difference for me.
 
#45 ·
Can anyone comment on height with the Michigan or JD SE seat?

I am 5'9" and my wife is 5'2"

She would kill me if I spent $600 on a seat and all it did was make it so she could not use the tractor ! :banghead:
 
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#49 ·
I will go out to the barn and take some pics for you showing height. Mine anyway. I don't think all installations will be the same height number. I'm sure it will depend on how you attach the seat.
 
#47 ·
Expensive for sure, but then again it's a JD product.
I wonder how much better it would be over the suspension seat though.
 
#48 ·
can't order the SE seat anymore you can only get the air suspension one now for $800.00 and some change.... Unless you order the black seat from Michigan seat as listed below
 
#50 · (Edited)
From what I'm reading, JD doesn't make the suspension seat anymore, but it is still available from different vendors.
 

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