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Thread: 1025r damaging lawn. (differential lock stuck on)

  1. Top | #141
    felixm22's Avatar
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    I would agree with Kenny. The fix is just a simple adjustment of the linkage.

    I feel that it is a good design for a newer owner. If the operator was in a panic stop situation and had the brakes split he or she would have to think to make sure to push both pedals. With the linkage the way it is there is no though required.


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  3. Top | #142

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    My tractor's differential was locked, I raised it to verify the wheels were spinning the same direction. The simple fix was nudging the rod into alignment on the differential, must have hit a tree or rock in the forest.

  4. Top | #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by HydroHarold View Post
    You can thank greedy lawyers and some owner's with lesser intelegence along with a government that just can't let people live their own lives for that silly business. In "Hydro's World" there would be an "option" switch, "RIOS Yes" or "RIOS No". Right now the option switch is a simple wire.
    I read a report last week in the Wall Street Journal where the average cost for regulatory compliance is now over $15,000 per HOUSEHOLD in America. We all pay dearly so a few can be protected from themselves........and they often have a way of proving no matter of oversight will ever help some people.

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  6. Top | #144

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    Yeah, I sometimes leave 4WD on by accident, and i realize when i see damage to the yard during sharp turns, also, it wont turn as sharp if 4WD is on
    2016 John Deere 1025R
    60" MMM with Auto-Connect
    H120 Loader
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    Ken's Differential Lock Pedal
    Ken's Bolt On Hooks
    Mower Deck Axle
    Edge Tamers

  7. Top | #145

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    I'm getting my new 1025R FILB in 4 days I think i'm gonna take a ride up to john deere an check out ours with my son an make sure it's good it's only 10 miles away . Thanks so much for this site COOL BEANS.
    1025R FILB
    60" quick change mower
    x300 jd mower 42"
    50" HD lawn sweeper

    :danger

  8. Top | #146

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    Quote Originally Posted by VTTractorguy View Post
    Hi folks. I've had my 1025r now for about a month and a half and am having a significant problem with the tractor tearing up my lawn while making turns - both left and right. The harder I turn the more it tears up the lawn - scalping it down to the dirt. It will do damage even during a moderate gradual turn. It's not the deck or deck wheels dragging, but rather something going on with the steering or rear differential. I also get a grinding and binding sensation the harder I turn. If I turn too hard the tractor will keep trying to push in a straight line and actually cause the front tires to skid forward. I mow in low range and make turns slowly. To minimize the damage I have to make three or four point turns.

    Here are some pictures of the damage it does:

    Attachment 21240 Attachment 21241 Attachment 21242 Attachment 21243 Attachment 21244 Attachment 21245

    The tractor is not in 4wd (checked that numerous times), the rear tires are not loaded with fluid, there are no wheel weights and the FEL is not on the tractor - just the 60D deck. I've noticed that the steering seems stiff from day one. It now has about 13.2 hours on the meter. This problem has gotten worse over the short time I've had the machine. I have also noticed the hydraulic connector on the power steering cylinder rubs on the inside of the left tire when turned hard left. It seems to shift closer and further away. Sometimes it’s right on the tire and other times it is 3/4 inch away.

    Has anyone experienced this? I'm assuming this machine should not be doing this and should handle and cut as well as a garden tractor. My dealer sent a technician down last week but he did not find anything. They are going to pick the machine up this week to look into in further. Any help and insights would be very much appreciated. Thanks everyone.
    Hi VTTractorguy!

    I too am new (December) so I'll give you my myopic Nubie input Make sure that in fact FWD has fully disconnected (maybe jack the front end and spin the wheels?) - even if your lever says so - any drag in the sleeve that would engage even slightly will cause you to tear sod with the front end. As mentioned, if the the diff lock is engaging, now your rears will tear out sod. What tires are you running? If its the chevrons, they are HORRIBLE at rearward traction. I find I HAVE to be in 4WD to back with my 50" Frontier Rear grooming mower. My suspicion is the rears of these tractors are so light, pushing the weight of a GM1060E actually transfers weight forward onto unpowered front wheels. BTW I was encouraged not to weight tires are add wheel weights - a decision I'm not sure was for the best. However, when mowing forward and turning, its 2WD only or the front tears out with the cleat shoulders - so alot of shuttle-shifting on the 4X lever. Also im mowing with FEL installed just to add balance weight and more control on those slight side hills.

    Hope some of this helps just my $0.02 - trade you for input on your PTO dash indicators - see my post appearing shortly!

  9. Top | #147

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    lawn torn up

    I had the same problem with my new 1025r, loader ,backhoe installed.
    At first I checked to see if it was in 4 wheel-it was, put in 2 wheel front end digging got a lot better. I use a bigger turning radius . That helped a lot. Next I realized my lawn was only 3 months old on sandy soil. Fisque grass seed from tractor supply( great looking lawn). Shallow roots and newly planted seed, I think was the problem for me.
    This was last fall.

  10. Top | #148

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adamq View Post
    I used my 1025R for the first time really yesterday digging out a section for a driveway extension. I remembered this thread as I was using it and as I first started working with and and driving it around noticed how difficult it was to turn. So I took it out of 4x4 and tried it and sure enough it was pushing the front wheels. Instead of calling my dealer and waiting for them to get around to me, I crawled under and had my wife push on the break pedal to see how all the linkages worked and interacted with each other. Sure enough the differential was staying locked because the brake linkage was not adjusted right. The brake linkage goes to the right side of the tractor (sitting on it) with a bar that has a adjuster on it that goes to plate just in-front of axle tube, with another bar going down to the diff. lock linkage with a spring on it. I adjusted the big linkage bar heading to the back along the frame, and with that small adjustment, the diff lock popped out and was fine. I am going to check it again when the rain stops but is wasn't bad to do.

    Anyway, thanks for the heads up on what to look for with the tractor and if you do have this problem, this what I had to do to fix it. All I needed was two 18mm wrenches.

    Adam

    156/5000

    Hi, Adam

    may be that even I have the same problem, you can send photos of what you have adjusted with the key to 18.
    You would be very kind
    Thank you
    John Deere 1026 R
    year 2012
    Autoconnect 54 D
    http://www.deleks.com/it/pale-ribalt...-trattore.html

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