1025r help deciding implements etc.
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    1025r help deciding implements etc.

    I am new here and have enjoyed reading the posts, havn't finished all yet, but I will. Learned things each time I didn't know. I have 11 acres, mostly hilly, heavy clay soil. I don't need a tractor but I want one. Just to have fun with and garden and cut grass. I have used Allis Chalmers, 1026, and New Holland. But my friends sold them and I decided I miss playing around the property with them.

    I want to do lots of tilling and some may require ripping up sod. I have a few large food plots and sunflower patches I want to till and plant. I am going to plant lots of potatoes and have a large garden. For cutting grass I have a nice Simplicity Prestige 42" lawn tractor, I cut about half acre, but might cut more. I actually enjoy cutting grass.

    I like the 1025r and looked for used but there almost as much as new. So I think new it might be. First off I need some help on implements and I know the 60" mmm is questionable to some. But I thought it would speed the grass cutting in the large fields and I would cut more than I do now. I was thinking about H120 fil, 60" mmm quick connect, I hitch, a quality tiller, and maybe a muldboard for planting potatoes and digging them up. This is where I need the help. Not sure what tiller to get, not sure the moldboard is the right equipment for potato harvesting, also wondering if it mounts to the I hitch.

    I am also concerned about the loader, my pole barn has gravel floor, and my property is very hilly, but I do have a fairly level asphalt spot to load and unload. But for storage it's the pole barn floor for everything.

    I am also interested in the price that would be reasonable for a new tractor and implements. I have read some in the forum, but mostly need the input and experience to help me before I order one.

    Many thanks in advance.
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    WifeSaidOK's Avatar
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    I can't help you with an answer about tiller etc, but I can tell you that you want the loader. I am not sure what your specific concerns are, but it is very easy to remove/reinstall. It takes less than 5 mins, and that is about as long as it could possibly take. Once you get good at it, you will have it off in 1-2 mins.
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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    For your question about potatoes etc. -

    It you are going to be tilling virgin ground that is hard/clay and heavy sod it doesn't hurt to rip it up first with a ripper type 3-point implement.

    CountyLine Subsoiler - For Life Out Here

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    And for furrowing and digging potatoes -

    CountyLine Middle Buster - For Life Out Here

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    Also take a look at the goodies here - one of our fantastic supporting vendors -

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    cheesetrain's Avatar
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    1025r help deciding implements etc.

    Coaltrain beat me to punch. For ripping up virgin sod the ripper shank works great. Either the County Line one or the one Heavy Hitch sells. I have the ripper shank from Heavy Hitch as well as their potato type plow. I use the ripper shank in my gardens running it as deep as my 1025r can pull it. For a quality tiller there are lots of options. Biggest question is price. John Deere, Landpride, King Kutter, Woods are just a few. I have a 50" Landpride RTA1250 I use on my 1025r. King Kutter is the one that gives you probably the best bang for your buck.

    As for the MMM width yes there are those that swear the 60" is junk because it can scalp. I'd argue adjustment and speed are the biggest causes but what do I know. Maintained properly, sharp blades and proper adjustment and the 60" cuts beautifully.

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    Last edited by cheesetrain; 03-12-2017 at 12:23 PM.
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    1025R w\ block heater and one rear work light
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    If you're considering anything other than paying cash for the machine, new is the way to go - you can't beat the 0% financing, and you can roll implements into that.

    Sounds like you have a big property, you're not really mentioning any tasks that require a front end loader but I can tell you that there are a million uses for one, and your shovel and wheelbarrow might be able to be retired. If you think there's any possibility you might want a loader, than stick with the 1 series at the very least. The new 2 series have more ground clearance, more lift capacity, and now all of the ergonomics of the 1 series including a sweet single point connection for loader hydraulics that makes hookup a literal snap rather than screwing around with hydraulic quick connects that tend to bind and make a mess. It's also more $$$$

    Now...if you think tilling and mowing that field is 100% of what you'll be doing, with no possibility of doing anything else in the future, you might consider an x500 or x700 garden tractor - these are available with 3 pt hitch and 18 hp rear PTO if needed, although they come in at 1025R price with that equipment. They have a sweet turning radius and beautiful cut compared to the 1025R, and they even have a diesel available which I used to own (the x758), also all wheel drive. They don't have a factory loader available, no 3 pt hitch position control (at least not a precise control), and have full time AWD and just a single range transmission. Very solid built though and the diesel unit sips fuel at full throttle.

    I traded that unit in because a couple years (OUCH) later I developed a need for a front end loader and a backhoe - my suggestion - roll in anything you think you could possibly need (ie implements, back blade, box blade, landscape rake, front end loader, mower) to that new financing. The backhoe some people will never use, but I'm very glad I have mine.

    Decide if you'll be doing much winter driveway maintenance now or down the road, and consider rolling in a plow blade, snowblower, and possibly a cab. If you find a need for a cab, get the heater option

    Happy hunting!
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    Evergreen's Avatar
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    I second the upgrade to at least a 2-series. The difference between 20 and 25 horsepower doesn't seem like much on paper, but trust me when I say that you WILL notice a difference when you put it to work. A little tractor that you max out all the time is not nearly as enjoyable to operate as a bigger one which you don't have to fight with constantly. Plus you get a few more features and creature comforts with a bigger tractor. If the cost of a bigger new tractor is prohibitive, you would be amazed at some of the deals you can find in the used market. Of course if you go back far enough (like, 60 years), you'll get a Deere with proper pedigree (aka, two cylinders ) and you'll see a significant drop in the cost/power ratio.

    As if you needed something else to think about; have you considered a 3-pt mounted finish mower rather than a MMM? With an IMatch they can be just as easy to hook up, and with practice they can be (in my opinion) easier to use. Another thing I like about finish mowers is their versatility. My old Woods 59 is just as capable at knocking down waist tall grass as it is delicately trimming my front lawn. I also like that I can very easily service the mower while it is still attached to the tractor because the 3-pt lifts it nearly two feet off the ground. Just something to consider...
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    Jarrod32's Avatar
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    Sounds like you pretty much know what you need. The loader is a must; the tiller and the mower will be the high dollar items.

    I have about 8 acres. Mine is pretty flat...but I have about an acre around the house that I mow with a regular rider. The rest I mow with a rough cut rotary mower. I only mow that part every three or four weeks in the summer, so the rotary cutter works better than a finish mower, IMO. It was mentioned earlier to consider a three-point mower...I would second that thought, whether it be a finish mower or a rough cut rotary mower.

    coaltrain also hit it right on the head...the middle buster is a useful tool. It does a pretty good job tearing up the ground, just need to hit it with the tiller after. It also makes a good furrow for planting...not just potatoes, but started plants, as well. And it is the tool for digging potatoes. Do a You Tube search for "middle buster" and you will get a lot of ideas.

    Middle buster digs up the garden...just need to hit it with the tiller:

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    It also makes a nice furrow for planting.

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    Gizmo2, Levi, BigJim55 and 3 others like this.
    JD 1025r; H120 loader; Howse 48" rotary cutter; Deere 647 tiller; County Line post hole digger; County Line middle buster; County Line carry-all; Ford 5' 3-point blade; Heavy Hitch receiver hitch/weight bracket; Heavy Hitch tooth bar; Titan pallet forks; Ken's bolt-on hooks.

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    I love my 1025 and 60" mmm. It cuts great, no scalping unless your are on very uneven ground in that 60". And i have cut my neighbors field with johnson grass and joe pye weed over 10 feet tall. It did come close to bogging down going through that - but it didn't!
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    Drifterbike's Avatar
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    If you get a loader be sure and get the H120 with the quick attach bucket 53". Do not get the pin on bucket!! With the quick attach you can do so much more. Add pallet forks (which I use more than my bucket) , mount a plow on it. Good luck
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    2018 2038R 220R FEL, 72" Mower, Radial tires, wheel spacers, dual rear SVCs, CtA grapple, single point for FEL, 60" broom with front hitch;2018 1025R 54"auto connect, HDAP tires, Quick Hitch, Ballast Box, Etc...;1967 1020 3cylinder gas, #47 FEL, 72" Landpride Grooming Mower, 6ft box blade, For Sale(no Hurry); life Member NRA since 1974

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spike View Post
    I am also interested in the price that would be reasonable for a new tractor and implements. I have read some in the forum, but mostly need the input and experience to help me before I order one.

    Many thanks in advance.
    Welcome to GTT spike.
    I can understand the initial concern about the price of the tractor but that is only the start of spending money. Trust me.
    Just remember, we are here to help.
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