Installing Independent Deck Lift on a 1025R
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    Installing Independent Deck Lift on a 1025R

    I just installed the independent lift option on my 1025R. As others have posted, the instructions are not real clear. Below are some photos I took of my installation:

    The photo below depicts the tractor disassembly required to install the kit. The installation instructions included with the kit just gloss over this. However, the Technical Manual, TM126919, provides a detailed step-by-step procedure. As such, I won't repeat those details.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1737.JPG 
Views:	127 
Size:	1.70 MB 
ID:	329226

    This photo depicts the position of the hydraulic lines of the kit, those painted black. Note that two of the three lines depicted are installed on the backside of the forward/reverse lever dampener (silver colored tube device). The lever end of the dampener must be taken loose to position the added lines. Also, the wiring harness is positioned on the outside of the added lines.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1739.JPG 
Views:	105 
Size:	1.77 MB 
ID:	329234

    The photo below is a rear view looking down along the side of the frame rail to depict line orientation.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1740.JPG 
Views:	94 
Size:	1.70 MB 
ID:	329258

    This photo is a top down view of the hydraulic line positioning. Again, the black painted lines are those added by the kit.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1741.JPG 
Views:	87 
Size:	1.79 MB 
ID:	329266

    This photo is an upward view of the electric valve and the hydraulic connections.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1743.JPG 
Views:	84 
Size:	1.89 MB 
ID:	329274

    The photo below is off a thin wall wrench that was required to secure some of the hydraulic fitting locknuts associated with the electric valve. As most of the fittings are 90 degrees, a standard wrench would not fit between some of the fittings and the valve body. This particular wrench is a Craftsman PN: 44474 I also had to test fit a few different brands of wrenches to find one whose heal and cap dimensions would provide the clearance necessary to fit on the line nut of the 90 degree fitting on the frame rail side of the valve body.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1745.JPG 
Views:	80 
Size:	1.89 MB 
ID:	329282

    As other members have posted for operator convenience, I installed the switch in the panel cutout originally occupied by the PTO switch and cut a new mounting hole for the PTO switch adjacent to it. I made the panel cutout utilizing a utility knife. The panel material is fairly soft and not difficult to cutout.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1746.JPG 
Views:	77 
Size:	1.84 MB 
ID:	329330

    I've also attached the installation manuals for the kits. I've marked up these manuals to add clarifications as well as an excerpt from the sales manual, as suggested by another member, which provides a color coded illustration of the different lines utilized in conjunction with the Power Beyond and Third SCV options.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by martincom; 03-14-2017 at 09:05 AM.
    etcallhome, Levi, BigJim55 and 8 others like this.
    2017 1025R TLB & 2017 1025R FEL
    2*54 Mower Decks w/Independent Lift
    2*47 Snow Blowers
    2*Cozy Cab
    2*Heavy Hitch Receiver Hitch w/Dual Suitcase Weight Brackets, Storage Cart, & 1*Front Suitcase Weight Bracket
    50" Wicked Root Grapple
    Land Pride LR1560 Land Rake w/ wide gauge wheels & plow blade
    BXpanded Backhoe Dolly
    MCS20 Leaf/clippings hopper
    647 Tiller
    2001 455 AWS & 1999 455 AWS--Both Sold

  2. The Following 13 Users Say Thank You to martincom For This Useful Post:

    BigJim55 (03-14-2017), Drifterbike (03-14-2017), etcallhome (03-14-2017), gbnpp05 (03-14-2017), jr6424 (05-02-2018), keane (03-16-2017), Kennyd (03-14-2017), Levi (03-14-2017), lindsey97 (05-10-2018), TJR345 (04-16-2017), Traction (03-14-2017), Tractor Tim (04-16-2017), Vern1026R (04-17-2017)

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  4. Top | #2
    John Deere 1025R TLB's Avatar
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    Nice write up!!!

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
    etcallhome and BigJim55 like this.
    MY2013 1025R TLB
    47" 2 stage front QT Snow Blower
    647 Tiller
    54D QT mowing deck W/ independent lift
    120H FEL W/ 49 in bucket
    260 BH W/ 12" bucket
    Homemade 10 Kw PTO Driven Generator (Timing Belt Driven 2000RPM input, from front PTO)
    1972 Homelite XL12 inherited from Dad going strong!
    Stihl FS90 String Trimmer
    Mantis Rotary Tiller
    ABI 5ft. Heavy Duty Landscape Rake

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    Good job, glad my dealer installed it before I picked up the tractor. They charged me for the parts, but not the install. Looks like I got a couple of hours out of them. I do wish they would've installed the switch where you put yours. The location by my left knee is awkward because the knob for the MMM height is on the same side so you wind up leaning over, using your right hand for the switch (around the steering wheel) and then doing the knob with your left. It kind of feels like I'm playing twister.
    etcallhome, Levi, BigJim55 and 1 others like this.
    2015 JD 1025R TLB-Setup (Dealer Installed Backhoe & Power Beyond)
    H120 Loader & 260 Backhoe
    60D MMM with Auto Connect & Ind. Hydraulic Lift
    JD I-match Quick Hitch
    Agri Supply CGR-48 Tiller (77709) & 48" Clamp on Debris Fork (87636)
    Yard Tuff 3-Pt. Plug Aerator (Northern Tool)
    42" Titan Forks w/ 2" Trailer Receiver
    HH Toothbar, Rear 2" Rec. Hitch Plate & 3-in-1 Trailer Tow Hitch
    Ken's Bolt on Hooks, Seat Springs, Differential Lock Pedal Ext.
    JD Forward Lighting Kit & Rear Work Light

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    martincom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zeke_in_SC View Post
    Good job, glad my dealer installed it before I picked up the tractor. They charged me for the parts, but not the install. Looks like I got a couple of hours out of them. I do wish they would've installed the switch where you put yours. The location by my left knee is awkward because the knob for the MMM height is on the same side so you wind up leaning over, using your right hand for the switch (around the steering wheel) and then doing the knob with your left. It kind of feels like I'm playing twister.
    I'm sure you received more than a couple hours of technician time. I was seven plus hours installing it. Granted, I get sidetracked and the first time through has a learning curve that typically doubles my time compared to a second installation. My dealer wanted $600 to install it and based on my experience, that would be a very fair price.

    As to the switch location, the console comes from the factory with the lower switch hole punched and covered with a blank. The harness is long enough to move the switch adjacent to the PTO switch. So you certainly can re-locate your switch and put the blank cover back in the hole. If your dealer didn't send you the left over parts, you're welcome to the blank plug form mine. I'm installing a switch for a tow behind sprayer in that location. Otherwise, you can obtain the blanks from electronic suppliers such as Digi-Key, Mouser, Newark, Waytek, etc. If you need guidance with the disassembly procedure for the console, I can help you out with that.

    Since it is new, clean and I have it disassembled, I'm adding the wiring for a tow behind sprayer (which I don't own), the grapple diverter valve, and the cab (heater, dome lamp, work lights, etc). I'm adding relays and fuses to the OEM fuseblock. I believe I've identified all the required terminals (they're on order) and once I'm done I'll author another post on aux wiring which will include PN and links to the fuseblock terminals, relays, and other supplies.
    Last edited by martincom; 03-14-2017 at 02:20 PM.
    2017 1025R TLB & 2017 1025R FEL
    2*54 Mower Decks w/Independent Lift
    2*47 Snow Blowers
    2*Cozy Cab
    2*Heavy Hitch Receiver Hitch w/Dual Suitcase Weight Brackets, Storage Cart, & 1*Front Suitcase Weight Bracket
    50" Wicked Root Grapple
    Land Pride LR1560 Land Rake w/ wide gauge wheels & plow blade
    BXpanded Backhoe Dolly
    MCS20 Leaf/clippings hopper
    647 Tiller
    2001 455 AWS & 1999 455 AWS--Both Sold

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    Zeke_in_SC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    I'm sure you received more than a couple hours of technician time. I was seven plus hours installing it. Granted, I get sidetracked and the first time through has a learning curve that typically doubles my time compared to a second installation. My dealer wanted $600 to install it and based on my experience, that would be a very fair price.

    As to the switch location, the console comes from the factory with the lower switch hole punched and covered with a blank. The harness is long enough to move the switch adjacent to the PTO switch. So you certainly can re-locate your switch and put the blank cover back in the hole. If your dealer didn't send you the left over parts, you're welcome to the blank plug form mine. I'm installing a switch for a tow behind sprayer in that location. Otherwise, you can obtain the blanks from electronic suppliers such as Digi-Key, Mouser, Newark, Waytek, etc. If you need guidance with the disassembly procedure for the console, I can help you out with that.

    Since it is new, clean and I have it disassembled, I'm adding the wiring for a tow behind sprayer (which I don't own), the grapple diverter valve, and the cab (heater, dome lamp, work lights, etc). I'm adding relays and fuses to the OEM fuseblock. I believe I've identified all the required terminals (they're on order) and once I'm done I'll author another post on aux wiring which will include PN and links to the fuseblock terminals, relays, and other supplies.

    I appreciate the offers. I don't think I'll be doing the work just to move the button. It may be something for 'someday' when I'm into it for another reason. I'm not going to take your blank for a someday project, but I may hit you up someday when I break into it.

    Thanks again.
    Drifterbike and Phil-T like this.
    2015 JD 1025R TLB-Setup (Dealer Installed Backhoe & Power Beyond)
    H120 Loader & 260 Backhoe
    60D MMM with Auto Connect & Ind. Hydraulic Lift
    JD I-match Quick Hitch
    Agri Supply CGR-48 Tiller (77709) & 48" Clamp on Debris Fork (87636)
    Yard Tuff 3-Pt. Plug Aerator (Northern Tool)
    42" Titan Forks w/ 2" Trailer Receiver
    HH Toothbar, Rear 2" Rec. Hitch Plate & 3-in-1 Trailer Tow Hitch
    Ken's Bolt on Hooks, Seat Springs, Differential Lock Pedal Ext.
    JD Forward Lighting Kit & Rear Work Light

  10. Top | #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    I just installed the independent lift option on my 1025R. As others have posted, the instructions are not real clear. Below are some photos I took of my installation:

    The photo below depicts the tractor disassembly required to install the kit. The installation instructions included with the kit just gloss over this. However, the Technical Manual, TM126919, provides a detailed step-by-step procedure. As such, I won't repeat those details.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1737.JPG 
Views:	127 
Size:	1.70 MB 
ID:	329226

    This photo depicts the position of the hydraulic lines of the kit, those painted black. Note that two of the three lines depicted are installed on the backside of the forward/reverse lever dampener (silver colored tube device). The lever end of the dampener must be taken loose to position the added lines. Also, the wiring harness is positioned on the outside of the added lines.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1739.JPG 
Views:	105 
Size:	1.77 MB 
ID:	329234

    The photo below is a rear view looking down along the side of the frame rail to depict line orientation.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1740.JPG 
Views:	94 
Size:	1.70 MB 
ID:	329258

    This photo is a top down view of the hydraulic line positioning. Again, the black painted lines are those added by the kit.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1741.JPG 
Views:	87 
Size:	1.79 MB 
ID:	329266

    This photo is an upward view of the electric valve and the hydraulic connections.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1743.JPG 
Views:	84 
Size:	1.89 MB 
ID:	329274

    The photo below is off a thin wall wrench that was required to secure some of the hydraulic fitting locknuts associated with the electric valve. As most of the fittings are 90 degrees, a standard wrench would not fit between some of the fittings and the valve body. This particular wrench is a Craftsman PN: 44474 I also had to test fit a few different brands of wrenches to find one whose heal and cap dimensions would provide the clearance necessary to fit on the line nut of the 90 degree fitting on the frame rail side of the valve body.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1745.JPG 
Views:	80 
Size:	1.89 MB 
ID:	329282

    As other members have posted for operator convenience, I installed the switch in the panel cutout originally occupied by the PTO switch and cut a new mounting hole for the PTO switch adjacent to it. I made the panel cutout utilizing a utility knife. The panel material is fairly soft and not difficult to cutout.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1746.JPG 
Views:	77 
Size:	1.84 MB 
ID:	329330

    I've also attached the installation manuals for the kits. I've marked up these manuals to add clarifications as well as an excerpt from the sales manual, as suggested by another member, which provides a color coded illustration of the different lines utilized in conjunction with the Power Beyond and Third SCV options.



    I have the separate hydraulic lift on my tractor. The second pdf you have shown reflects what mine consisted of. My mower is lifted and lowered with the joy stick. You show an added switch mounted to the plastic "dash". What is this switch for?

    I always thought the hydraulic cylinder should be hard lined with a "T" and manual shut off so the male quick connect would not be hanging when the blower or bucket is installed.
    Last edited by genesusie; 03-15-2017 at 10:05 AM.
    Tractor Tim and Phil-T like this.

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    martincom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by genesusie View Post
    I have the separate hydraulic lift on my tractor. The second pdf you have shown reflects what mine consisted of. My mower is lifted and lowered with the joy stick. You show an added switch mounted to the plastic "dash". What is this switch for?

    I always thought the hydraulic cylinder should be hard lined with a "T" and manual shut off so it would not be hanging when the blower or bucket is installed.
    Well, let's see if I can explain the difference in JD terminology. The stock lifting system is what JD terms "Mechanical Lift" and that term is very appropriate. There is an interconnecting link between the 3-point rockshaft and the mower deck rockshaft. So they both function from the 3-point actuator and in unison.

    The "Hydraulic Lift", what you have, add the extra hydraulic cylinder and it is connected to one of the joystick hydraulic circuits. In this manner, the mower deck lift is independent of the 3-point, but not of the FEL hydraulics. So if you have the mower deck and loader installed at the same time, the mower deck will move with the loader--unless you have it up all the way and deck height adjuster set at "Install".

    What I just installed is termed 'Independent Lift" as the mower deck lift does not share a circuit with either the 3-point or the FEL. I'm guessing there really isn't a good place to install another SCV and the plumbing that would accompany that to the mower deck lift cylinder---or at least not very cost effective. So this circuit is controlled by the electric valve added with the kit and mounted beneath the frame crossover plate Thus, why the switch was added to control this electric valve. In this manner, when the momentary switch is activated, the mower deck is raised.

    While it is now independent of any other hydraulic circuit, the "Independent Lift" is no different than your "Hydraulic Lift"--it only raises the mower deck and does not hold it in the raised position. You must keep the function active until you adjust the manual mower height setting for the desired height, because as soon as the hydraulic actuator is released, the deck will fall to the position set by the manual height adjustment. The cost and the complexity of adding the additional plumbing for hydraulic "down" circuit would be expensive. Moreover, I've never had hydraulics that didn't leak down over time (some quicker than others) so it is not a reliable method of setting cutting height and would certainly yield a whole host of complaints as the height of the cut grass changed from the beginning of a job to the ending point.

    The purpose of relocating the switch from the factory location at the lower left side of the console (yours may have a blank switch cover in that location) is that you need to keep the switch activated with one hand, to bold the mower deck up, while adjusting the manual height dial with the other. Needless to say, you need to be nimble to do both at the same time. Sadly, those days are long gone for many of us, present company included. Thus, why the switch was re-located adjacent to the PTO switch.

    A hard line shut-off valve isn't going to do anything the electric valve doesn't. The cylinder will still leak down over time. The hard line valve will most likely be in a location that would at a minimum be more difficult to access than the OEM switch location and more likely would require leaving the operator's station. I'm sure the folks at Fit-Rite Hydraulics could come up with something, but as I think they'd be quick to point out, at what price point would you be willing to bear?
    Last edited by martincom; 03-15-2017 at 10:15 AM.
    2017 1025R TLB & 2017 1025R FEL
    2*54 Mower Decks w/Independent Lift
    2*47 Snow Blowers
    2*Cozy Cab
    2*Heavy Hitch Receiver Hitch w/Dual Suitcase Weight Brackets, Storage Cart, & 1*Front Suitcase Weight Bracket
    50" Wicked Root Grapple
    Land Pride LR1560 Land Rake w/ wide gauge wheels & plow blade
    BXpanded Backhoe Dolly
    MCS20 Leaf/clippings hopper
    647 Tiller
    2001 455 AWS & 1999 455 AWS--Both Sold

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    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    Well, let's see if I can explain the difference in JD terminology. The stock lifting system is what JD terms "Mechanical Lift" and that term is very appropriate. There is an interconnecting link between the 3-point rockshaft and the mower deck rockshaft. So they both function from the 3-point actuator and in unison.

    The "Hydraulic Lift", what you have, add the extra hydraulic cylinder and it is connected to one of the joystick hydraulic circuits. In this manner, the mower deck lift is independent of the 3-point, but not of the FEL hydraulics. So if you have the mower deck and loader installed at the same time, the mower deck will move with the loader--unless you have it up all the way and deck height adjuster set at "Install".

    What I just installed is termed 'Independent Lift" as the mower deck lift does not share a circuit with either the 3-point or the FEL. I'm guessing there really isn't a good place to install another SCV and the plumbing that would accompany that to the mower deck lift cylinder---or at least not very cost effective. So this circuit is controlled by the electric valve added with the kit and mounted beneath the frame crossover plate Thus, why the switch was added to control this electric valve. In this manner, when the momentary switch is activated, the mower deck is raised.

    While it is now independent of any other hydraulic circuit, the "Independent Lift" is no different than your "Hydraulic Lift"--it only raises the mower deck and does not hold it in the raised position. You must keep the function active until you adjust the manual mower height setting for the desired height, because as soon as the hydraulic actuator is released, the deck will fall to the position set by the manual height adjustment. The cost and the complexity of adding the additional plumbing for hydraulic "down" circuit would be expensive. Moreover, I've never had hydraulics that didn't leak down over time (some quicker than others) so it is not a reliable method of setting cutting height and would certainly yield a whole host of complaints as the height of the cut grass changed from the beginning of a job to the ending point.

    The purpose of relocating the switch from the factory location at the lower left side of the console (yours may have a blank switch cover in that location) is that you need to keep the switch activated with one hand, to bold the mower deck up, while adjusting the manual height dial with the other. Needless to say, you need to be nimble to do both at the same time. Sadly, those days are long gone for many of us, present company included. Thus, why the switch was re-located adjacent to the PTO switch.

    A hard line shut-off valve isn't going to do anything the electric valve doesn't. The cylinder will still leak down over time. The hard line valve will most likely be in a location that would at a minimum be more difficult to access than the OEM switch location and more likely would require leaving the operator's station. I'm sure the folks at Fit-Rite Hydraulics could come up with something, but as I think they'd be quick to point out, at what price point would you be willing to bear?

    I think I follow what you stated. As mine is now I lift the deck with the joy stick. Deck does stay up and I can reset the stop knob for cut height without having to hold joy stick. When done setting cut height I just lower deck with joy stick. The lift up is also convenient for traversing over driveway or where I do not want to cut grass. Deck stays up during all these short lift times. In fact It seems to stay up a lot longer as I wash off tractor and deck with garden hose and I put it away in the garage and lower deck with joy stick. Also find independent lift convenient for moving trailer to cut around by using the 3 point hitch while holding mower deck up.

    I guess I like my JD with what I have. Thank you for explanation.

    It would seem a bit cumbersome to hold electric switch to maintain the deck up.
    etcallhome and Phil-T like this.

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    Motorcycle/ATV lift

    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    I just installed the independent lift option on my 1025R. As others have posted, the instructions are not real clear. Below are some photos I took of my installation:

    The photo below depicts the tractor disassembly required to install the kit. The installation instructions included with the kit just gloss over this. However, the Technical Manual, TM126919, provides a detailed step-by-step procedure. As such, I won't repeat those details.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1737.JPG 
Views:	127 
Size:	1.70 MB 
ID:	329226

    This photo depicts the position of the hydraulic lines of the kit, those painted black. Note that two of the three lines depicted are installed on the backside of the forward/reverse lever dampener (silver colored tube device). The lever end of the dampener must be taken loose to position the added lines. Also, the wiring harness is positioned on the outside of the added lines.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1739.JPG 
Views:	105 
Size:	1.77 MB 
ID:	329234

    The photo below is a rear view looking down along the side of the frame rail to depict line orientation.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1740.JPG 
Views:	94 
Size:	1.70 MB 
ID:	329258

    This photo is a top down view of the hydraulic line positioning. Again, the black painted lines are those added by the kit.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1741.JPG 
Views:	87 
Size:	1.79 MB 
ID:	329266

    This photo is an upward view of the electric valve and the hydraulic connections.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1743.JPG 
Views:	84 
Size:	1.89 MB 
ID:	329274

    The photo below is off a thin wall wrench that was required to secure some of the hydraulic fitting locknuts associated with the electric valve. As most of the fittings are 90 degrees, a standard wrench would not fit between some of the fittings and the valve body. This particular wrench is a Craftsman PN: 44474 I also had to test fit a few different brands of wrenches to find one whose heal and cap dimensions would provide the clearance necessary to fit on the line nut of the 90 degree fitting on the frame rail side of the valve body.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1745.JPG 
Views:	80 
Size:	1.89 MB 
ID:	329282

    As other members have posted for operator convenience, I installed the switch in the panel cutout originally occupied by the PTO switch and cut a new mounting hole for the PTO switch adjacent to it. I made the panel cutout utilizing a utility knife. The panel material is fairly soft and not difficult to cutout.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF1746.JPG 
Views:	77 
Size:	1.84 MB 
ID:	329330

    I've also attached the installation manuals for the kits. I've marked up these manuals to add clarifications as well as an excerpt from the sales manual, as suggested by another member, which provides a color coded illustration of the different lines utilized in conjunction with the Power Beyond and Third SCV options.
    Not to change the subject, but, I see you have your tractor on what looks like a Weaver motorcycle/atv lift. What is the weight capacity of your lift? I have a similar (Handy Lift) lift for my motorcycles but without the widening kit. Mine is I believe a 1000# capacity so I'm not sure if it would lift my tractor. If I find out that it will, I'm going to order the side extensions for it. I love that lift for the bikes and would love it even more if I could use it for the 1025R.

  15. Top | #10

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    I posted something similar to the comment/question yesterday but I think I misunderstood the purpose of the hydraulic mod they were making on that thread. Anyway I am new to the site and while I've had my 1025r for a few years now I am just now getting to 200 hrs. Started looking at some how to's so that I can do my own service and found this site. One of the things I do not like about the hydraulics is that in order to use the MMM lift with the FEL still in place I have to swap out one of the FEL functions. It is a pain to work the MMM quick connect into place due to the length of the hose and I usually have to undo some of the surrounding connections to get that in place the reinsert the others. My thought was to add a 3 way valve in the circuit and use it to redirect the flow as needed.
    No more swapping of the one hose. Any thoughts on this or has anyone tried it. I am not sure it this adding an independent lift is for the same thing I would like to accomplish.

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