Coolant question
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 27
Like Tree47Likes

Thread: Coolant question

  1. Top | #1
    Firemark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Last Online
    Today @ 12:22 PM
    Location
    Millstone, N.J.
    Posts
    908
    Thanks
    68
    Thanked 185 Times in 109 Posts

    Coolant question

    When I first used my 1025, it overheated and blew off some coolant. I let it cool down, cleaned radiator screen and hosed out radiator. I called dealer and he said to check the screen often. It was my fault as a new owner, I just didn't think it would overheat that fast. I asked him what to add and he said any 50/50. I went to the nearest auto parts store and added Preston yellow 50/50 pre diluted antifreeze coolant. Now that I've been reading the service info it says to use 60/40. Should I drain the coolant and use new JD or will it be ok? Don't want to do damage due to wrong chemicals added via the Preston. Haven't had a problem again. Coming up on a 200 hrs service interval and wondering if I should just change coolant. Also wondering what is involved if I have to such as dran plugs on engine block etc.
    2016-1025 FILB, 54" FEL, 54" Front Blower, 54" MMM, Brush Guards, Front and rear LED work lights
    BXpanded-backhoe thumb, bucket teeth, backhoe dolly
    Kens hooks w/ shackles (3 on Bucket), Diff Lock Pedal, backhoe steps
    Artillian Blinders
    Bush hog SBX 480 box blade, BX 600 box Blade
    Frontier LR2060L landscape Rake w/ gauge wheels, subsoiler
    Woods RBC 60 Rear Blade
    Land Pride QH-15 quick hitch
    Everything Attachments 60" Pine Needle Raked
    Garber Easy Seed 60" drop spreader

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2
    Mar524ak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 12:09 PM
    Location
    Amarillo tx
    Posts
    524
    Thanks
    17
    Thanked 77 Times in 55 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Firemark View Post
    When I first used my 1025, it overheated and blew off some coolant. I let it cool down, cleaned radiator screen and hosed out radiator. I called dealer and he said to check the screen often. It was my fault as a new owner, I just didn't think it would overheat that fast. I asked him what to add and he said any 50/50. I went to the nearest auto parts store and added Preston yellow 50/50 pre diluted antifreeze coolant. Now that I've been reading the service info it says to use 60/40. Should I drain the coolant and use new JD or will it be ok? Don't want to do damage due to wrong chemicals added via the Preston. Haven't had a problem again. Coming up on a 200 hrs service interval and wondering if I should just change coolant. Also wondering what is involved if I have to such as dran plugs on engine block etc.
    If it's not to much trouble. drain system good and go back with JD coolguard


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    BigJim55 and Firemark like this.

  4. Top | #3
    AlKozak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Last Online
    06-03-2019 @ 07:21 PM
    Location
    Caroga Lake, NY
    Posts
    715
    Thanks
    40
    Thanked 84 Times in 77 Posts
    Pretty much coolant R coolant as long as you stick to well known name brands. It is predominantly ethylene glycol, with an anti-corrosion package added.

    If you don't buy the pre-diluted stuff, what you dilute it with is probably more important than the actual coolant IMO. You should always use distilled or deionized water as a tractor has a useful life measured in decades.

    60/40 is an odd mix as it will not provide the minimum freeze point nor maximum boiling point. I suspect (again, because tractors have a very long service life) the engineering reason for that is to increase the concentration of the anti-corrosives and the reduced temperature range is an acceptable trade-off.

    If you're going to be changing it soon anyway, I wouldn't worry about it.

    Al
    BigJim55, Firemark and ky_shawn like this.

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to AlKozak For This Useful Post:

    jphavener (04-07-2017)

  6. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  7. Top | #4

    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Last Online
    Today @ 10:40 AM
    Location
    Charlevoix, Michigan
    Posts
    176
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts
    If these Engines are a WET Sleeve Cylinder liner, the Coolant is a Coolant is wrong. Wet Sleeve engines require a special additive to prevent cavatation damage to the liners. I do not remember what it is but if the wrong antifreeze is used the liners will pit and eventually cause a coolant leak into the engine. Please make sure you use the correct antifreeze. If the Engine is not WET Sleeve then Anti-freeze is Anti-freeze. Examples of a WET Sleeve Diesel is the old Ford 7.3 liter and a non Wet Sleeve example would be the Cummins 5.9 Liter.
    1994 JD 445 with 54" MMM
    2012 JD 1026R with FEL, 54" MMM, I-Match, King Kutter 4' Flex Hitch Rotary Kutter L-48-40-P-FH, JD Ballast Box.
    47" Snow Blower, 54" Front Blade, Fits Both Tractors Quick Hitch
    Tektite Cab to the 1026R

  8. Top | #5
    Mar524ak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 12:09 PM
    Location
    Amarillo tx
    Posts
    524
    Thanks
    17
    Thanked 77 Times in 55 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Sundancer268 View Post
    If these Engines are a WET Sleeve Cylinder liner, the Coolant is a Coolant is wrong. Wet Sleeve engines require a special additive to prevent cavatation damage to the liners. I do not remember what it is but if the wrong antifreeze is used the liners will pit and eventually cause a coolant leak into the engine. Please make sure you use the correct antifreeze. If the Engine is not WET Sleeve then Anti-freeze is Anti-freeze. Examples of a WET Sleeve Diesel is the old Ford 7.3 liter and a non Wet Sleeve example would be the Cummins 5.9 Liter.
    Electrolysis is what your referring to! I've overhauled a few cat irrigation engine that this has happened to. Pressure up the block (cooling system) drop oil pan and watch for drips from piston area!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    BigJim55 likes this.

  9. Top | #6
    AlKozak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Last Online
    06-03-2019 @ 07:21 PM
    Location
    Caroga Lake, NY
    Posts
    715
    Thanks
    40
    Thanked 84 Times in 77 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Sundancer268 View Post
    the Coolant is a Coolant is wrong
    That's not what I said. I said "coolant R coolant". Big difference.

    Lined cylinder bores are more typical of heavy duty engines. Unless I'm mistaken, these tractor engines are unlined and when the hole gets too big, your only option is to bore and use oversized pistons.

    Al
    BigJim55 likes this.

  10. Top | #7

    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Last Online
    03-02-2019 @ 06:20 PM
    Location
    Lehigh Valley PA
    Posts
    3,228
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 201 Times in 195 Posts
    It's best to use the same brand antifreeze. Especially for long term longevity of the engine. They make many different formulations that don't all mix. Any coolant is better than no coolant. Just change it out asap.

    As far as the mix goes 50/50 is usually the minimum/most common. 70% straight antifreeze and 30% distilled water is as strong as you want to go. This will give you the maximum boil over and the lowest freezing points. I usually take a 5 gallon bucket and mix 2 gallons of coolant to one gallon of water. This will give you exactly 70/30. Mixing it stronger than 70/30 or weaker than 50/50 will cause overheating problems. It will also freeze at a higher temperature.

    My X540 has such a small cooling system that I just bought a gallon of JD premix. It's also a lot less of a hassle then mixing it.
    HydroHarold, BigJim55 and Firemark like this.

  11. Top | #8
    jgayman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Last Online
    Today @ 01:51 PM
    Location
    Central Pennsylvania
    Posts
    10,030
    Thanks
    371
    Thanked 1,660 Times in 1,257 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Firemark View Post
    When I first used my 1025, it overheated and blew off some coolant. I let it cool down, cleaned radiator screen and hosed out radiator. I called dealer and he said to check the screen often. It was my fault as a new owner, I just didn't think it would overheat that fast. I asked him what to add and he said any 50/50. I went to the nearest auto parts store and added Preston yellow 50/50 pre diluted antifreeze coolant. Now that I've been reading the service info it says to use 60/40.
    There have been numerous threads recently where instead of consulting the owner's manual folks are calling the dealer for service details and getting WRONG information. It seems to be happening with a multitude of equipment types. I'm sure there are dealers out there who know there stuff but the story is just becoming all too common. The owners manual and technical manual should be the #1 go-to source for information, followed by the GTT forums. :-) If you feel it necessary go ahead and call the dealer for a 3rd opinion.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

  12. Top | #9
    jgayman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Last Online
    Today @ 01:51 PM
    Location
    Central Pennsylvania
    Posts
    10,030
    Thanks
    371
    Thanked 1,660 Times in 1,257 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by AlKozak View Post
    60/40 is an odd mix as it will not provide the minimum freeze point nor maximum boiling point. I suspect (again, because tractors have a very long service life) the engineering reason for that is to increase the concentration of the anti-corrosives and the reduced temperature range is an acceptable trade-off.
    True, but 60/40 is what the 1025R manual is recommending if you do not use the pre-mix.

    Recommended Engine Coolant

    The engine cooling system is filled to provide year-round protection against corrosion and cylinder liner pitting, and winter freeze protection to -37 degrees C (-34 degrees F). If protection at lower temperatures is required, consult your John Deere dealer for recommendations.

    • The following coolants are preferred:
    • John Deere COOL-GARD™ II Premix
    • John Deere COOL-GARD™ II PG Premix

    Use John Deere COOL-GARD II PG Premix when a non-toxic coolant formulation is required.
    The following engine coolant is also recommended:

    • John Deere COOL-GARD™ II Concentrate in a 40—60% mixture of concentrate with quality water.

    John Deere COOL-GARD II Premix, COOL-GARD II PG Premix, and COOL-GARD II Concentrate coolants do not require use of supplemental coolant additives.

    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

  13. Top | #10
    Mar524ak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 12:09 PM
    Location
    Amarillo tx
    Posts
    524
    Thanks
    17
    Thanked 77 Times in 55 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    There have been numerous threads recently where instead of consulting the owner's manual folks are calling the dealer for service details and getting WRONG information. It seems to be happening with a multitude of equipment types. I'm sure there are dealers out there who know there stuff but the story is just becoming all too common. The owners manual and technical manual should be the #1 go-to source for information, followed by the GTT forums. :-) If you feel it necessary go ahead and call the dealer for a 3rd opinion.
    Yea I don't know how a lot of dealers are when a customer calls with a question like that. You may get a salesperson or parts and some wrong info. At our store they call a tech for the line. I'll answer and help them out. If it's a hard question the team leader (me) will take the call and get the answers they need. That's just how our place works. We don't want wrong info being given to our customers. Customers and tractors are the top priority!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  14. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •