Arcgh.....screwed up the transmission fan on my 2035...and I'm happy, lol!
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Thread: Arcgh.....screwed up the transmission fan on my 2035...and I'm happy, lol!

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    Arcgh.....screwed up the transmission fan on my 2305...and I'm happy, lol!

    Two weeks ago I pulled a couple of pine trees out with my 2305 through a combination of pulling with a chain and pushing with a blade. Sadly when pushing one of the root balls I drive over a stick and took out a the transmission fan. Ut oh! I had not done much research on replacing the fan but I did recall somewhere seeing that you needed to split the tractor to do so.Needless to say I was scared and didn't want to split it for such a visible part.

    After some additional research I found this thread that made drive shaft removal not too bad so that the fan could be accessed.
    http://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...placement.html

    Removing the shaft was really as simple as a set of snap ring pliers, and two different drifts to knock out a cotter pins, with a little shimmy and shaking to actually get the shaft removed. Really this process didn't take more than 30 min if you have the right tools around.

    Now the part why I am happy. This is a new to me tractor, I did the basic service when I got it of oil, filters and lubing it, including the drive shaft u joints with a needle adapter. Once I had the shaft removed I found that the front U joint had seized in one of the two directions of movement. The joint was stuck!

    If I had not screwed up the transmission fan I would have never pulled the driveshaft. Now I am replacing two parts a ~$30 fan and a ~$50 u joint. If I would not have broken the fan I would have probably blown the drive shaft and been out the $550 for a complete new shaft....and probably in the middle of mowing season too boot. At least now the tractor has been down for ~2 weeks in a shoulder season where it isn't a problem.

    Of note...when I did order the JD joint for my tractor ( LVA803335) it did not come with the associated snap rings...those are separate. I destroyed my snap rings when removing them since the have corroded shaft, itself and they needed to be pulled out by pliers.


    To summarize....If you have not greased your u joints on a 2305 regularly, it may be time to pull the shaft and check them for movement before you break the shaft all together. Removal, repair and re installation of the shaft is the the low end of the moderate skills needed. The big call out it so have the parts needed at hand or be sure your dealer has them in stock so you don't find yourself waiting. I needed to stop and wait for part to arrive, which I didn't plan for, but if you have everything the whole R&R should be less than two hours.
    Last edited by mcj115; 04-13-2017 at 08:58 AM.
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    AJgrn78's Avatar
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    This is very interesting to read a first-hand account of one of these U Joints seizing. A U Joint usually doesn't seize, they usually get worn, the "cross" gets rough from the needles wearing on it, eventually when it gets bad enough the needle bearings break inside the caps and fall out and it disintegrates itself.

    I wonder if the needle bearings are rusted tight? Do you have pics of the bad u joint with the caps removed?
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    I'll grab a picture tonight. All I can say is that I did see some rust in the cap, I didn't do a failure mode analysis on the cap itself. It was strange to say the least, one of the two caps on that axis was free, whereas the other was seized. It appeared to be a lubrication issue, as the other caps did have new grease in them from my earlier service but this one did not. Everything on the joint was tight with no slop from disintegrated bearings.

    One related question....Does anyone know if a current source/supplier for a transmission fan guard for the 2305 that can be kept on with the MMM? I have search ebay and tired other sources with no luck.
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    AJgrn78's Avatar
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    I think you may have inadvertently uncovered that the U Joint failures are not as much from excessive wear...as much as lack of lubrication, corrosion and seizing. And a u joint that can't bend is going to fail quickly. These u joints have actually very little axial movement at the engine versus one at a steep angle (like when a kid puts a lift kit on his pickup and the front driveshaft is screaming for mercy), which keeps wear to a minimum BUT also makes them prone to seizing up.
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJgrn78 View Post
    This is very interesting to read a first-hand account of one of these U Joints seizing. A U Joint usually doesn't seize, they usually get worn, the "cross" gets rough from the needles wearing on it, eventually when it gets bad enough the needle bearings break inside the caps and fall out and it disintegrates itself.

    I wonder if the needle bearings are rusted tight? Do you have pics of the bad u joint with the caps removed?
    The problem with these U joints (I had the same thing happen on my 2210 but with catastrophic results) is the grease departs the U joint either through centrifugal force, heat, age, etc and then bearings inside the caps seize up. JD did not make the driveshaft very easy to service. The 2305 is easier to service than the 2210. You should probably service the U joints every 400 hours or so...maybe even more frequently than that.

    I have not read of any driveshaft issues yet on the 1 series but they are still fairly new so maybe no one has enough hours to comment on them yet. I know on the 2210 the driveshaft started failing somewhere between 800-1000 hours. Not sure on the 2305 but probably at a similar hour level. I am glad on the 1 series they went to an oil cooler for the transmission versus the cheesy fan blade. Anything they can do to clean up the underside of these SCUT is a good thing since the ground clearance is so low.
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    To update I was able to do a postmortem on the seized cap u joint. The grease cavity to the one cap was blocked with a black powdery substance..not rust or dried grease. The ports to the other three caps were still open. When I removed the cap this time the bearings fell out, I noted the inside of just this one cap was rusty. The roller surface on the T of the u joint was starting to show signs of brinneling.

    My guess is that I caught this at the right time. If I were to go another season I'd expect that cap to loosen, get sloppy and tear itself apart.
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    rtgt's Avatar
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    Great thread!

    Sometimes bad things do turn out good.

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    Taking the easy way is what makes rivers and men crooked.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mcj115 View Post
    To update I was able to do a postmortem on the seized cap u joint. The grease cavity to the one cap was blocked with a black powdery substance..not rust or dried grease. The ports to the other three caps were still open. When I removed the cap this time the bearings fell out, I noted the inside of just this one cap was rusty. The roller surface on the T of the u joint was starting to show signs of brinneling.

    My guess is that I caught this at the right time. If I were to go another season I'd expect that cap to loosen, get sloppy and tear itself apart.
    The black crud you described sounds just like what I've found in other greasable joints that decided to stop taking grease and I had to remove the zerk to clean them out. Like a dense, hard-packed black powdery crud.

    I think the moral is to grease those joints often, and good! I usually hit a u-joint with the grease gun until I see it start to ooze out the caps, I've never had one ruined from doing this.

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtgt View Post
    Great thread!

    Sometimes bad things do turn out good.

    I agree.
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    Keith

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    I got mine from a seller called Enventive on eBay. His work is first class in my opinion.
    Works fine with the MMM.


    Doug
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