Draining and flushing coolant without making a mess?
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    ensign's Avatar
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    Draining and flushing coolant without making a mess?

    Has anyone come up with a good way to drain and flush the coolant on your 1025r without making a big mess?

    Thanks!
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    1025R, H120 Loader, 60D mmm, RC2048 rotary cutter, 54" snowblower, iMatch, ballast box

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    I learned a trick on a snowmobile forum that worked remarkably well on my liquid-cooled snowmobile when I needed to rebuild the water pump....

    Shop Vac. Pulled one of the larger hoses off and put the hose of a 5 gallon wet/dry vac onto it, sucked all of the antifreeze right out, you could feel the air sucking into the cylinder head. I've never tried it on a tractor, but it really worked on a snowmobile.
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    Firemark's Avatar
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    I have a pretty big pan for when I drain the hydro. I did this yesterday. Placed Pan underneath the front, opened the radiator pet cock and drained it. Looked underneath and shifted the pan a bit. Installed petcock and fluid. Same for block plug. Hosed rig down and that was the end of it. No mess at all.
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    ensign's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firemark View Post
    I have a pretty big pan for when I drain the hydro. I did this yesterday. Placed Pan underneath the front, opened the radiator pet cock and drained it. Looked underneath and shifted the pan a bit. Installed petcock and fluid. Same for block plug. Hosed rig down and that was the end of it. No mess at all.
    I guess it's the hosing part that I find to be a mess.

    I was even using two drain pans and still felt too much ended up on the floor of the garage.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ensign View Post
    I guess it's the hosing part that I find to be a mess.

    I was even using two drain pans and still felt too much ended up on the floor of the garage.
    The same here. It is not the draining, it is the flushing that makes the mess. I always try to do mine in the summer, so I can just push it outside to do the flush and back flush.

    I was smart when I built the new home with the 28 x 70 attached garage/workshop. I installed a trough style grated floor drain that runs the entire length of the shop about 2' in from the overhead doors. The other side is graded towards it the entire 25'. So at least the flush water flows to the drain and it is easy to squeegee off. None the less, we do attempt to collect and properly dispose of as much of the used anti-freeze as possible.

    When I was a boy, my father had a friend that owned an automatic transmission shop. The owner took a bit of a shine to me, an allowed me to work on my snowmobile in his shop, after hours. I learned very quickly how to work without making a mess because if there was one thing out of place in that shop the next morning or evidence of a spill on the floor, I was in for verbal chewing out of no equal. As I became a teenager and had the muscle cars (I still have my high school car, '70 Charger R/T w/440-6pk), the amount of after hours activities in his shop reached epic proportions. To this day, I strive to maintain a tidy work environment.
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    Ethylene glycol is highly toxic to four legged critters. Two legged ones as well, though I haven't licked anything off the ground since college. It tastes sweet to them, so make sure you clean up well if you have any pets.

    Al

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    The port on the side of the engine is the problem. Draining the radiator is pretty easy to do without the mess.

    I tried putting a funnel with a long hose in front of the side port. But the plug fell into the narrow part of the funnel and it filled up. I put absorbent pet pads all around underneath. Then the wind picked up.

    I'm not convinced it can be done without some mess. No matter how much I plan to avoid mess on this job, I still get some. I did find a great absorbent that really helps in the cleanup. SEE THIS LINK.
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    Quote Originally Posted by keane View Post
    The port on the side of the engine is the problem. Draining the radiator is pretty easy to do without the mess.

    I tried putting a funnel with a long hose in front of the side port. But the plug fell into the narrow part of the funnel and it filled up. I put absorbent pet pads all around underneath. Then the wind picked up.

    I'm not convinced it can be done without some mess. No matter how much I plan to avoid mess on this job, I still get some. I did find a great absorbent that really helps in the cleanup. SEE THIS LINK.
    I put that large pan on underneath the side and removed the plug after draining from the radiator petcock. It ran down into the pan. I than wiped down the side and wiped down the area near the radiator petcock. After refilling, pulled tractor out of shop a gave a rinse to front are and side with hose. Very very little had to be washed off. I didn't flush beacause my machine is only a year old. I changed coolant because of I topped it off with"any 50/50" based on dealers advice. So making a mess and polluting the environment was not an issue.

    I thought about getting a fitting that goes from petcock thread to hose and block drain plug to hose for flushing. It was so easy, I will probably change coolant once a year and never have to flush.
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    Go to the dollar store and buy one of those blue kiddie pools. Saw some for 5$ recently. They sell a 40" and a 72".
    Raise the front end with the Fel. Slide the pool under the wheels or straddle with the 40". Lower. Flush away!
    Screw it to the garage ceiling so the grandkids can't use it.

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    This thread is a little old but seems those who have replied to the thread have done coolant change on a 1025r. My question is how do I do it? I know where the radiator drain (petcock) is, but it seems I need to remove the battery and the tray it sits on in order to drain the valve. Then there's the block drain plug. Where the heck is it? I have the block heater in my 1025r so I hope that I don't have to remove it, which seems like a bad idea to me. Just asking for a leak.

    My 1025r is five years old this month and I've never changed the coolant. I've had to top off the coolant reservior when I got my tractor because it was a bit low so I have the jug of John Deere Coolguard ready to go. Just can't figure out what I need to remove to be able to drain the radiator.
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